Progression Hang Board

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By winter’s end, the banality of the climbing gym can produce plateaus that even Sharma couldn’t break through. Enter the Progression Board, a hangboard to be used in conjunction with a training regimen designed by climbing coach Eva Lopez. With a master’s degree in sports science, her research has shown that substantial finger-strength gains can be made when training below a maximum effort—or, in other words, rarely training to the point of failure in any given session. This sub-maximum training style also greatly reduces the chance of injury. That’s right: big gains in finger strength with a reduced risk of injury. The Progression Board is designed for intermediate climbers seeking to move to the next level (advanced climbers should check out her Transgression Board) with eight rungs that vary from 10 millimeters to 24 millimeters. This allows for ultra-fine-tuning and constant control of the training load. A finger-friendly shape supports comfortable, strength-building hangs on half-crimps, and an oversized top rung is perfect for pull-ups. A training outline is included with each board, and more info on Lopez’s protocol can be found on her blog: en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com.es. Says one tester after a month of training, “I feel more confident on holds I once thought ungrippable.” $330; transgressionusa@gmail.com

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