Although the average diameter of most ropes is getting smaller, the standard length is growing, and Metolius has responded by making their tried-and-true rope bag in a “high capacity” version. For day trips to Clear Creek Canyon and weekend trips to Shelf Road, both in Colorado, the bag easily fit an 80-meter rope and full rack of 15 quickdraws.
The climbing rope is the centerpiece of your safety system. Unless you’re bouldering, it’s your most critical climbing equipment. You may buy a one-size-fits-all rope, or build a quiver of ropes that suit each type of climbing you do. Modern nylon climbing ropes use a kernmantle design, meaning they have a thick “kern,” or core, providing most of the strength, plus a thin “mantle,” or sheath, to protect the core. Extensive twisting of the core yarns gives a rope most of its stretchiness and energy-absorbing capabilities.
New England Ropes/Maxim Airliner 9.1: Easy clipping and complete smoothness out of the gate made this Maxim rope an absolute favorite for the serious sport climbers in our test squad. Knots were easy to tie and untie, and initial kinks were kept to a minimum. The 9.1mm diameter is absolutely perfect for redpointing—thick enough to stand some abrasion and big whips, but thin enough (61 g/m, or less than 9.5 lbs for a 70m rope) to feel like there’s practically nothing there.
Over the winter, we climbed with a wide sampling of single ropes (most are new for 2010/2011) and boiled the selection down to eight favorites. During the review process, certain biases became evident: Some testers wouldn’t even look at a rope above 10mm in diameter, while others nervously said “no thanks” to anything under 9.8mm. Dry treatments also became a point of contention: Sport climbers in Colorado shrugged them off as an unnecessary extra expense, while ice climbers were incredulous at this indifference. While such characteristics will factor into your own decision, we hope to at least point you in the right direction on the journey to find your dream cord.
After months of testing on hundreds of routes, we offer up our picks for the most innovative, useful, and just damn good gear of the year. The Singing Rock Crux, Mammut Smart Alpine, Black Diamond Gridlock Screwgate, Petzl Grigri 2, Five Ten Arrowhead, Arc'Teryx Squamish Hoody, Beal Joker 9.1, North Face Verto, and Salewa Rapace GTX all won our high praises and took home the Editors' Choice Award.
By thinking eco, French company Millet has raised the bar on their already top-notch Triaxiale rope line. The 10mm Low Impact Triaxiale is a green rope, literally and metaphorically — Millet found ways to reduce energy consumption and use fewer chemicals during production, as well as minimize packaging.
New for 2009, Millet’s Cristal buffs out the popular 9.8mm-diameter category with this addition to the French manufacturer’s cabled-core line (the threads are twisted and assembled, not braided). The Cristal is an excellent all-arounder with an angle toward sport climbing — thick enough to work with all belay devices and withstand a day of crux-bolt whippers.
Within the narrow-diameter rope market, you have a wide variety of options. Many of today’s 9.8mm cords are full service — you can use them for practically any facet of climbing except heavy-duty wall climbing, which dishes out serious wear and tear to even the stoutest 11mm ropes.
At a slim 60 grams per meter, Sterling's Nitro is light enough for limit-pushing redpoints, yet also stood up to route-working abuse with aplomb, thanks to its durable sheath.
If you're looking for a skinny rope that can take a beating on abrasive multi-pitch granite or sandstone, the Roca Minus is an ideal candidate.
Weighing in at a scant 57 grams per meter, the PMI Elite was one of the lightest ropes in the test. It also provided the cushiest catch due to its 35-percent dynamic elongation.
The Maxim Whippet handled like a charm and absorbed plenty of route-working punishment. The cord's smooth sheath and moderately stiff core made clipping and belaying a breeze.
Share
