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	<title>ClimbingThe Best of Gear: Hall of Famers</title>
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		<title>The Best of Gear: Hall of Famers</title>
		<link>http://www.climbing.com/gear/the-best-of-gear-hall-of-famers/</link>
		<comments>http://www.climbing.com/gear/the-best-of-gear-hall-of-famers/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 29 Nov 2011 12:34:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>By Julie Ellison</dc:creator>
		
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.climbing.com/print/equipment/the_best_of_gear_hall_of_famers</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[The outdoor industry outdoes itself with the sheer number of products it rolls out every trade show. With each new piece, old gear is launched into oblivion. Eventually, many products end up forgotten or even mocked for their irrelevance or terrible performance compared with the latest and greatest. Out with the old, in with the [...]]]></description>
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<p><b>The outdoor industry outdoes itself   with the sheer number of products it rolls   out every trade show. </b>With each new   piece, old gear is launched into oblivion.   Eventually, many products end up forgotten   or even mocked for their irrelevance   or terrible performance compared with the   latest and greatest. Out with the old, in   with the new.   </p>
<p>However, some gear is just so good that it stays in production year after year,   despite the latest, much-hyped “groundbreaking   innovations.” <i>Climbing</i> has been   testing gear for nearly 30 years, and to   mark our 300th issue, we polled past and   present editors and testers (along with our   gear-loving colleagues at <i>Backpacker</i>) to   choose 17 well-seasoned items that we still   love and use. Best of all, each is still available,   so you can get them for yourself.</p>
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<p><b><font size="2">Metolius Safe Tech Harness   <br />  INTRODUCED: 2003   </font></b><br />  Although there are harnesses that   are slimmer, sexier, and lighter, the   Safe Tech’s foolproof design secured   its place in our hall of fame. Jeff Achey,   <i>Climbing’s</i> features editor, says, “Knowing   I could clip anything to any point   on that harness and it would hold   no matter what—that’s peace of   mind.” The idiot- and bomb-proof   construction on this harness make   it a solid choice for beginners as well   as bolters, big-wallers, and people who   are generally hard on their gear. Metolius   designed the Safe Tech because of mistakes climbers   make due to fatigue, going too fast, and even ignorance   (including a climber who clipped only his rear leg loop elastics   to the anchor while belaying on a multi-pitch and then had   the second climber fall and pull them both to the ground). It’s   still the only harness with an adjustable rise in the front, and   it’s got four gear loops, a rear haul loop, and two full-strength belay loops (all-around version; comp version has one).</p>
<p>• $79—$109<br />   • <a href="http://www.metoliusclimbing.com" target="_blank">metoliusclimbing.com     </a><br />  • Four versions: all-around, deluxe men’s and women’s, comp, and big wall (Waldo)   <br />• Five sizes in all-around</p>
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<p><b><font size="2">Five Ten Guide Tennies   <br />  INTRODUCED: 1996   </font></b><br />  A resounding favorite among all our   constituents, Guide Tennies elicit a feeling   of confidence on varied terrain, including   approaches, descents, scrambles, and   climbs up to about 5.8. The iconic Stealth   C4 dotted tread pattern was unique to the   Guide Tennie when it was introduced, and   to-the-toe lacing, leather, and a remarkably   light weight (about 14 oz.) make them a   standout choice today. (The latest version   added some rocker to the sole for more   comfortable walking.) They also excel for   big-wall climbs: comfortable for standing in   aiders, yet confidence-inspiring when you   have to bust out a free move. Tester Shannon   Davis climbed Granite Peak in Montana   as well as the <i>Maiden</i> (5.6) in Boulder   with the Guide Tennies and says, “Hiking   to some moderates? This has been the   best shoe for that for, like, 15 years.” Next   spring, Five Ten is releasing   a canvas version,   which promises   to be more breathable   and stand up to water   better than the classic leather model.</p>
<p>• $109.95 (both   models)   <br />  • <a href="http://www.fiveten.com" target="_blank">fiveten.com   </a><br />  • Breathable   canvas version   coming soon   <br />  • Stealth C4 sticky rubber</p>
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<p><b><font size="2">Patagonia Regulator Series   <br />  INTRODUCED: 2000   </font></b><br />  When Patagonia’s Regulator line of synthetic fleece was introduced 11 years ago, it won   <i>Backpacker’s</i> Editors’ Choice Award, and the magazine’s editor in chief, who still uses   his original pieces from 2000, says, “They’re the layers I reach for when I’m not testing   other things.” Patagonia and Polartec collaborated to create this synthetic layering system,   which is available in four weights: R1 as a close-to-skin layer in changing temps;   R2 for a bit more warmth as a midlayer; R3 as a midlayer in colder temps; and R4 for   windproofing and the coldest situations. Across countless   miles, vertical feet, peaks, and countries, our testers and editors   lauded the R series for its combination of light weight, insulation, breathability, and durability.</p>
<p>• $119—$249   <br />  • <a href="http://www.patagonia.com" target="_blank">patagonia.com   </a><br />  • Warm and breathable   <br />• Can last 10+ years</p>
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<p><!-- End: Ad Container --><br clear="all">		  			  		  <a class="content-img-link" rel="group1" href="http://static-dev-climbing.s3.amazonaws.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/HF-BD-Express_33883.jpg"><img src="http://static-dev-climbing.s3.amazonaws.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/HF-BD-Express300_33881.jpg" height="335"/></a>
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<p><b><font size="2">Black   Diamond   Express   Ice Screw<br />   INTRODUCED: 1998   </font></b><br />  No other screw combines light   weight (3.2 oz. to 5.9 oz.), compactness,   and easy placements like the Express. By adding   a fold-away turning handle to its already excellent screws,   Black Diamond opened the eyes of climbers to how easy it   should be to put in an ice screw. Pete Takeda’s original review   in <i>Climbing</i> 181 (December 1998) exclaimed, “One tester placed   a 17cm screw in five seconds after the initial bite.” In the years   since their introduction, Black   Diamond has continued to refi ne   the tube geometry, clip-in points,   and handle shape, keeping these screws at the top of the heap.</p>
<p>• $58.95–$59.95   <br />  • <a href="http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com" target="_blank">blackdiamondequipment.com   </a><br />  • Five lengths: 10cm, 13cm,   16cm, 19cm, 22cm   <br />  • Color-coded for quick placements</p>
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<p><b><font size="2">The North Face   VE-25 Tent   <br />  INTRODUCED:   1975   </font></b><br />  The bright yellow   dome of the VE-25 has dotted   base camps   from Argentina   to the   Karakoram   for decades,   and for good reason. This three-man   shelter is roomy, comfortable, and bombproof. On an Olympic   Peninsula trip with four tents, including one VE-25, remnants of   a typhoon hammered the area with 50mph winds that splintered   huge tree limbs in the forest. By the end of the night, the non-VE-25 campers crowded into the still-standing VE-25, escaping   broken poles, ripped flies, and one full collapse. All the guylines on   the North Face dome hadn’t even been   deployed. This tent is on the heavy side   (packed weight is 9 lbs., 12 oz.), but for   expeditions where it’s windy and cold   (think Everest base camp), the VE-25 has you covered.</p>
<p>• $569   <br />  • <a href="http://www.thenorthface.com" target="_blank">thenorthface.com   </a><br />  • 48 square feet of room   <br />  • Kevlar guylines include easy camming adjusters</p>
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<p><b><font size="2">CAMP Tri-Cams<br />   INTRODUCED: 1981     </font></b><br />  If it weren’t for spring-loaded camming units, these babies would still be on every trad climber’s rack, but you’ll still see them anywhere horizontal cracks abound, such as the Gunks in New York. Greg Lowe designed these curved nuts in 1973, but Tri-Cams did not hit the market until 1981—absolutely terrible timing. Spring-loaded protection was the hot new thing, and climbers were saving their dollars to buy their first set of Friends. To the untrained eye, Tri-cams seemed like just another nut, but the Tri-Cam design “creates a stable tripod with the two parallel camming rails flat against one side of the crack and the fulcrum point contacting the opposite side,” according to an ad in <i>Climbing</i> 72 (May/June 1982). Now made by CAMP in Italy, Tri- Cams still have many fans because they are much lighter than spring-loaded cams and can protect pockets, flares, and horizontal fissures that no other cam can touch.</p>
<p>• $22.95–$66.95   <br />  • <a href="http://www.camp-usa.com" target="_blank">camp-usa.com</a>  <br />  • Available in 13 sizes,   from 0.125 to 7   <br />  • Available with nylon or Dyneema sling</p>
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<p><!-- End: Ad Container --><br clear="all">		  			  		  <a class="content-img-link" rel="group1" href="http://static-dev-climbing.s3.amazonaws.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/HF-Petzl-Grigri_33903.jpg"><img src="http://static-dev-climbing.s3.amazonaws.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/HF-Petzl-Grigri-300_33901.jpg" height="201"/></a>
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<p><b><font size="2">Petzl Grigri   <br />  INTRODUCED: 1991   </font></b><br />  In our survey of editors and testers, this innovative   belay device showed up on literally everyone’s   list—usually right near the top. This despite an initial   review in <i>Climbing</i> 126 (June/July 1991) that   suggested it might not be worth the then-price   of $79.90 (shame on us!). The Grigri’s assisted   braking system immediately made this the   device of choice for sport climbers, as well as   aid climbers who needed a free hand while   belaying or a backup while ascending fixed   ropes. It’s not idiot-proof (one well-known   editor nearly killed his ex-wife with one),   but when used properly, it provides an extra   margin of safety and comfort for hard-working   belayers. New this year, the Grigri 2 boasts a   wider rope range (8.9–11mm), a 25 percent size   decrease, and a weight loss of 1.5 oz. Despite a   hiccup when some units of the   Grigri 2 were recalled because of a   potential braking problem, the solid updates to the second-generation   model guarantee it will be hanging from harnesses   for years to come. Plus, Petzl kept the old price—unfortunately not the same price as in 1991!</p>
<p>• $94.95   <br />  • <a href="http://www.petzl.com" target="_blank">petzl.com   </a><br />  • Grigri 2 is 25% smaller,   20% lighter   <br />  • Wider rope range at 8.9mm–11mm</p>
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<p><b>Black Diamond Cobra<br />   INTRODUCED: 1998     </b><br />  In today’s world of specificity, it’s rare to find a product that excels at all bandwidths, but, as one tester puts it, “The Cobra does everything well, period.” Another states, “I’d use this tool for mixed Himalayan faces, on Canadian multi-pitch water ice, and up to about M8 at the sport-mixed crags. I’d give it to a rank beginner, too.” What makes the Cobra so special? Part of the appeal is reliability. A stainless-steel head is mated to a chromoly-steel pick with custom steel bolts. The spike offers a sound clip-in point, while the hammer can be used to pound pins on alpine mixed routes. Despite all this burl, the Cobra weighs a relatively light 1 lb., 5 oz. per tool. And with its carbon-fiber shaft and sophisticated weight distribution, the Cobra is reassuringly predictable. “With some of the weight in the head, the tool almost plants itself, and I felt zero vibration upon impact,” says a tester. Redesigned in 2007 to incorporate improvements in carbon technology, these are still go-to tools for ice and alpine climbers across North America.</p>
<p>• $336   <br />  • <a href="http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com" target="_blank">blackdiamondequipment.com   </a><br />  • Two grip positions   <br />  • Available with full-size hammer or adze heads</p>
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<p><font size="2"><b>Metolius Haul Bags   <br />  INTRODUCED: 1996   </b></font><br />  Straightforward design and 100 percent bombproof   construction wins these pigs maximum plaudits.   After using his Metolius Half Dome haul bag on   at least half a dozen wall routes in Yosemite   and Zion national parks, our editor in chief’s bag   still looks practically new. (The testing included   throwing the loaded bag off a 300-foot cliff   while descending from a new route on Toothrock   in Arizona. No harm done.) The breakthrough with   these haul bags was their urethane fabric (which   Metolius called Durathane), said to be 10 times   tougher than the vinyl-coated nylons that other   bags were using. The carrying system (shoulder   straps and hip belt) is about the best you can   expect from a haul bag: burly and easily stowable   for hauling, if not exactly   comfy during approaches   and descents.   An internal pocket and   clip-in loops complete the package.</p>
<p>• $149–$219   <br />  • <a href="http://www.metoliusclimbing.com" target="_blank">metoliusclimbing.com   </a><br />  • Four sizes: 46L, 69L, 125L,   and 157L   <br />• Durable urethane fabric</p>
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<p><!-- End: Ad Container --><br clear="all">		  			  		  <a class="content-img-link" rel="group1" href="http://static-dev-climbing.s3.amazonaws.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/HF-Petzl-Meteor_33923.jpg"><img src="http://static-dev-climbing.s3.amazonaws.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/HF-Petzl-Meteor-300_33921.jpg" height="401"/></a>
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<p><b><font size="2">Petzl Meteor Helmet   <br />  INTRODUCED: 1997   </font></b><br />  This is the helmet that converted <i>Climbing’s</i>  editor in chief, Dougald MacDonald,   to a full-time helmet wearer—it’s so light,   comfortable, and well-ventilated that he says   there’s no excuse not to wear it. An Editors’ Pick   in <i>Climbing’s</i> 1999 Gear Guide, the Meteor changed   expectations about how helmets should fit and feel.   Like all foam-style helmets, the Meteor isn’t as burly as   suspension-style helmets, and you   have to be careful with them in your pack   and in use. (Don’t shoot your friend in the head   with a BB gun while he’s wearing one as one editor did for fun after   a little too much Jim Beam—luckily, the helmet and friend were uninjured.) With care, the Meteor will last years, and so will your head.</p>
<p>• $99.95   <br />  • <a href="http://www.petzl.com" target="_blank">petzl.com</a>  <br />  • Meteor III+ is   certified in Europe   for bike and   whitewater use.   <br />• 8.3 oz.</p>
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<p><b><font size="2">MSR Whisperlite   Stove<br />   INTRODUCED: 1984   </font></b><br />  <i>Backpacker</i> gear editor   Kristin Hostetter calls   this “the gold standard of   liquid-fuel stoves,” and with   more than 17 years of testing   experience, she has tested   a lot of stoves. This is the classic   mountaineers’ snow melter and Ramen boiler,   and generations of guides have taken it from Patagonia   to Denali high camp. Though furnace-hot   cartridge-fuel models like the Jetboil and MSR’s own   Reactor have become the stoves of choice for light-and-fast   ascents, the Whisperlite remains a reliable standby because of   its cold-weather performance, simmering capability, and ability   to handle a wide range of pot sizes. One tester who used it   recently on the Sulphide Glacier below Mt. Shuksan in the   North Cascades never had an issue with the cold and wind   affecting the Whisperlite, and says, “This stove always kicks   ass in all types of weather and elevations. I wish I could say the same about me.”</p>
<p>• $79.95–$89.95   <br />  • <a href="http://www.cascadedesigns.com/msr" target="_blank">cascadedesigns.com/msr   </a><br />  • Multi-fuel compatibility   with Internationale version   <br />  • Great for high altitude, low temps</p>
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<p><b><font size="2">Petzl Tikka   Headlamp   <br />  INTRODUCED: 2000   </font></b><br />  Other headlamps now compete   well with Petzl’s lights, but the   Tikka gets a special merit award for changing the game. With   the Tikka, Petzl switched to LED bulbs instead of battery-gobbling,   cold-dimming incandescents. The result was incredible battery life   and a bright beam at all temperatures. Now, as features editor Jeff   Achey says, “An LED made anything else seem like a POS.”   The Tikka family has grown to the Tikka 2, Tikkina 2, Tikka Plus   2, and the Tikka XP 2, as well as Petzl’s Core rechargeable battery   system. Our testers love the high-output XP 2, which has a nifty flip-up wide-angle lens   so you can “wake up, fl ip the diffuser to make alpine-start coffee, head out, and flick   back the diffuser to have a beam that lights up your climb from 100 feet back,” as one   enthusiast says. With up to 160 hours of battery life and five lighting modes (including red for night vision), the Tikka XP 2 is a proud descendant of the original.</p>
<p>• $54.95 (XP 2)   <br />  • <a href="http://www.petzl.com" target="_blank">petzl.com   </a><br />  • Compatible with   Core technology   <br />  • Tikka XP 2 lights up to 60 meters</p>
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<p><b><font size="2">La Sportiva Miura   <br />  INTRODUCED: 1997   </font></b><br />  A hands-down favorite in the office, the   Miura beat out another Sportiva shoe, the   Mythos, as our top choice for a classic but   still much-loved rock shoe. The key to their   popularity? Versatility. Though not a true   edging shoe, the Miuras excel at “smedging”   (smearing/edging), they have a fairly pointed   toe for thin cracks and pockets, and the asymmetric last and   slight downturn help them grab holds on overhanging routes.   In <i>Climbing’s</i> original review (No. 168, May/June 1997), tester Dave   Pegg said, “Just drooling over this lightweight lace-up, with its generous heel cup, snappy   slingshot, and asymmetrical last, made me want to start training.” Moreover, the shoes are   comfy enough (on many climbers’ feet) to be worn on long routes, and they hold up well   to resoles, making them a solid value. (One editor has resoled a pair four times, despite   having new shoes thrown at him all year for testing.) One tester   swears her footwork improves tenfold as soon as she tightens   the straps on the Velcro version. (Both men’s and women’s models   are available with laces or Velcro.) The Miuras are versatile, high performance, and durable—what more could you need?</p>
<p>• $140   <br />  • <a href="http://www.sportiva.com" target="_blank">sportiva.com   </a><br />  • Asymmetric last   <br />  • Vibram XS Grip 4mm sticky rubber</p>
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<p><b><font size="2">Arc’teryx Alpha SV Jacket   <br />  INTRODUCED: 1998   </font></b><br />  As one tester puts it, this jacket is “pictured   next to the word ‘bomber’ in the climber’s   dictionary. I’d take it if I were going to spend   a year in the Alaskan wilds and needed fullfeatured   storm protection and reliability.” The   first shell to boast waterproof zippers, the   Alpha SV is now made with Gore-Tex Pro   Shell. It weighs in at around 19 oz. and offers   complete element protection. In a review back   in <i>Climbing</i> 182 (February 1999), former editor   Duane Raleigh said, “The jacket’s pit zips   open with a flick of the wrist (kiss bumbly   fumbling goodbye) and stay open, ushering   in a refreshing blast of winter air.” High   chest pockets mean everything is accessible   even with a harness on, and the fit is trim and   athletic. It’s extremely pricey at almost $600—Raleigh’s original review said of the price (then   $450), “My first car cost   less”—but many climbers   and ski mountaineers   consider an Alpha SV a lifetime investment.</p>
<p>• $599<br />   • <a href="http://www.arcteryx.com" target="_blank">arcteryx.com     </a><br />  • Now made with Gore- Tex Pro Shell   <br />• Durable, durable, durable</p>
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<p><b><font size="2">Wild Country Friends   <br />  INTRODUCED: 1978   </font></b><br />  “Because of their ingenious design   and principle, the placement of a   Friend takes much less time and   effort than does the placement of a   traditional chock,” Steve Levin said in   <i>Climbing</i> 51 (November/December   1978). Today this seems obvious, but   when these spring-loaded, fourcam   units hit store shelves in the   late 1970s, they were revolutionary.   Invented by Ray Jardine several years   earlier, Friends were the first camming   devices that were both stable and   user-friendly. The fuss-and-fiddle days   with parallel-sided cracks gave way to   plug and chug. In 2011, Wild Country   unveiled the third major redesign of   these units in 33 years: The Helium   Friend cut weight and added range, a   big thumb loop, smoother trigger action,   and a 2.5- to 3-inch longer stem. $65 to $75; <a href="http://www.wildcountry.co.uk" target="_blank">wildcountry.co.uk</a></p>
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<p><b><i>Freedom of the Hills</i><br />   INTRODUCED: 1960     </b><br />  Simply put: the mountaineer’s bible. One editor who shall remain nameless says, “It’s on my desk right next to the dictionary, and I use <i>Freedom of the Hills</i> more.” Now in its eighth edition, this climbing primer is essential for anyone who goes off trail and up. Packed with how-to information on everything involving the mountains, from anchors to acclimatization, this book helped many flatlanders “learn to climb” before even touching real rock. Now with 170 more pages than the original. $29.95; <a href="http://www.mountaineersbooks.org" target="_blank">mountaineersbooks.org</a></p>
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<p><b><font size="2">Colorado Custom Hardware/   Fixe Climbing   Aliens   <br />  INTRODUCED: 1986   </font></b><br />  “Aid climbing without Aliens is like   free climbing without chalk,” says Jeff   Achey. Originally released by Colorado   Custom Hardware, the beloved Alien   cams soon will be available again,   thanks to the Spanish outfit Fixe Climbing,   which bought the rights to produce   the units when CCH folded. Original   tester Will Gadd said in <i>Climbing</i> 169   (June/August 1997), “The narrow head,   combined with a very flexible stem,   lets the units work in flaring cracks, pin   scars, pockets, and other tight spots   where no other cam will go.” Twenty-five years later, that’s still true. One   tester says he still loves them despite   one hitting him between the eyes after   it popped when he took a big whipper.   New price not yet available; <a href="http://www.fixeclimbing.com" target="_blank">fixeclimbing.com</a></p>
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