Climbing
Pearson Claims E12 on English Slab
The hardest traditional route in the world may be a slab climb. The young English climber James Pearson has climbed The Walk of Life (E12 7a) on a steep slab on the North Devon coast in southwest England. At this grade, the route must include hard 5.14 climbing with death-fall potential.

The Craggin' Classic
Coming to Golden, Colorado October 10-12, 2008 this major new climbing festival is presented by the American Alpine Club, and will feature Layton Kor (Guest of Honor), John Gill (’08 Underhill Award recipient), and Dave Turner (’08 Bates Award recipient). Get more info and register at www.cragginclassic.com.
 
New Paltz Climbing Film Festival
The 10th Annual New Paltz Climbing Film Festival, featuring the Reel Rock Tour, will be 7:30 PM, Saturday, October 11 (Columbus Day Weekend). Because the Studley Theater has been closed for renovations, we will be back at the Lecture Center, next to the library on the SUNY campus. Reel Rock has opened with sold out crowds in Squamish, Boulder, Durango, and Crested Butte.
 
Timy Fairfield Clinics and Training Camps - Fall 2008
Timy Fairfield will be offering two Adult Clinics, one in Pontiac, MI on October 1st, and one in Ann Arbor, MI on October 2nd at the Planet Rock gyms. On October 3-5th Timy will teach a Youth Training Camp in Ann Arbor, MI at Planet Rock and on October 18-19th he will teach a clinic at the Enchanted Tower in New Mexico. A routesetting workshop will be offered at the Phoenix Rock Gym Wednesday October 22nd as well as a Southwest youth training camp for the weekend of October 25-26 at the Phoenix Rock Gym.
 
2008 Triple Crown Bouldering Series
Triple Crown is dedicated to maintaining climbing access by supporting the Southeastern Climbers' Coalition and The Carolina Climbers' Coalition. The series kicked off with perfect weather at Hound Ears in Boone, NC on October 4th. Next event is at Horse Pens-40 in Steele, AL on November 1st, and the conclusion is at the Stone Fort in Chattanooga, TN on December 6th.
 
Tech Tip - Sport - Welcome to the Jungle (Gym)
By Krisitn Bjornsen - YOU FEEL EYES UPON YOU — is that panting you hear? You flee to the bouldering cave . . . but you’re cornered. Any second, the lone, roving male will pounce, turning your once-pleasant session into a socially awkward morass.
 
Your Lands, Your Wildlife, Your Story
10/01/08 - Defenders of Wildlife launches national story contest at the Outdoor Industry Association’s Summer Market.
 
MYO headlamps and AA/LR6 rechargeable batteries
9/22/08 - Due to advances in the performance characteristics of AA/LR6 rechargeable batteries (especially their higher output during discharge), they can in certain cases of intensive use, cause quality and safety problems with MYO-series headlamps.
 
AMERICAN MEATBALLS - Two Yanks Taste Humble Pie on the Superb Granite of Sweden
By Mike Brumbaugh / Photos by Jonas Paulsson - Sweden: this serene Scandinavian country conjures visions of sweeping granite, splitter cracks, and rounded blocs. Er, I mean, bikini teams, hockey, lingonberry jam . . . and more bikini teams. In short, all things not climbing. And so it is with major trepidation that, in April 2007, I board a plane to Stockholm for a climbing trip.
 
THE NOSE GOES QUICKER
Story and Photos by Eric Perlman / MastersofStone.com - July 2, 2008: “Go Hans! Go Yuji! Go Hans! Go Yuji!” a crowd of onlookers howls from below the 3,000-foot prow of El Capitan, in Yosemite National Park, California. The cheering spurs on Yuji Hirayama and Hans Florine, mere specks on the Nose (VI 5.9 C2; 2,900 feet; 31 pitches), as they charge to reclaim the speed record held since October 2007 by the German brothers Alex and Thomas Huber.
 
Boone Sheridan Speed - Photographer, Product Designer, Area Developer, Entrepreneur, Smack Talker; Portland, Oregon
Raised in the Mormon town of Lindon, Utah, Boone Sheridan Speed, 42, never quite fit in. Speed's was a dual world, with artistic parents (his father, Grant Speed, is a renowned Western bronze sculptor) who were also devout Mormons. Click here for a Chuck Fryberger video of Speed at his family foundry.
 
September 2008 - 269
FAITH-BASED INITIATIVE - Tune up your huevos and get ready for a second dose of Ibex; HALF THE STORY - Adieu, Hueco. Sayonara, Bishop. The real bouldering explosion centers on a hillside in Turkey; AMERICAN MEATBALLS - Two psyched yankees visit Bohuslän, Sweden, home to the world’s best trad cragging; ANOTHER ONE DRIVES THE BUS - Why Boulder, Colorado, climbers have been driving the big, yellow bus for more than a quarter century
 
2000 Pixel - High Rez Images
Photos by Celin Serbo, Andy Chasteen, Stéphan Denys, Simon Carter, Tim Kemple, Michael Clark, Jay Beyer, Corey Rich, Frederic Moix, John Burcham, John Dickey, Shawn Reeder, Joe Irons, Jim Thornburg, Keith Ladzinski, Hermann Erber, Jozef Kopold, Andrew Burr, Cody Blair, Jim Thornburg, Des Rubens ...


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The Dirtbag Diaries - Episode 21: No Car No Problem
By Fitz Cahall - A 1,200-foot rock wall in a wilderness area – that's standard summer fare. In a day and back before dinner? Sounds easy. Without a car? That’s when my climbing partners stopped returning my phone calls. Recreating without a car might seem impossible, but this summer I set out to test the preconceived notion.
 
The Nose Goes Quicker - Part 1
Video by Eric Perlman / MastersofStone.com - TEASER FROM MASTERS OF STONE 6 COMING SPRING 2009 - The July 2 climb did not begin well. Hirayama took a warm-up lap on the first pitch, a polished, pin-scarred 5.10d. Halfway up, he missed a hold, falling 20 feet. But, said Hirayama, “[The fall] just made me focus more.” And focus they did. The pair counted down together in Japanese — “San, ni, ichi!” — and then Florine hit the stopwatch, with Hirayama firing up the crack.
 
Interview with Nicolas Falacci
Originally from Massachusetts, Nicolas Falacci is a true “Gunky” who became a television writer, producer and is the co-creator and executive producer of the CBS show “Numb3rs.” Nick got started climbing over 20 years ago after finishing college at the Tisch School of the Arts at New York University.
 
2008 Neptune Mountaineering Horsetooth Hang - Recap
The 2008 Neptune Mountaineering Horsetooth Hang, held at Rotary Park in Fort Collins, Colorado, pulled off its annual bouldering festival this past Saturday, September 27 with a Western-themed flourish. Pink cowboy hats (on the guys), pigtails (on the girls), and cowboy boots of all types came together for a day of stewardship, community development, and a little competition.
 
Utah-based Companies and Participants Helped Make the 7th Annual HERA Women's Cancer Foundation Climb4Life A Success
The 7th Annual HERA Women's Cancer Foundation Climb4Life hosted by Utah-based Black Diamond was held September 18-21, 2008 in Salt Lake City. The event, part of a national series that raises money for ovarian cancer research and awareness initiatives, roped in more than $100,000 and counting.
 



 
Q and A with Taylor Clarkin - Winner of 2008 World Youth Speed Climbing Championships
Congratulations to Taylor Clarkin for winning the 2008 IFSC World Youth Speed Climbing Championships on August 28-31, 2008 in Sydney, Australia. She was the only American competitor amongst the 45 member US youth national team to bring home the Gold this year.
 
Yosemite and Rainier Weather Forecasts
Updated 10/02/08 - By Michael Fagin, lead forecaster for West Coast Weather - EverestWeather.com - West Coast weekend forecast and live weather cams for Denali, the Squamish Chief, Mt Rainier, Yosemite and Joshua Tree.
 
Meet the PRO BLOG Team
Updated 9/30/08 with Justin Roth's 10th blog from the 2008 Horsetooth Hang — Also check out: Lauren Lee's 10th, Andy Mann's 5th, Dave Graham's 15th, and Freddie Wilkinson's 7th. Travel the world through the blogs from our athletes: ANGELA PAYNE, DANIEL WOODS, TIM KEMPLE, DAVE GRAHAM, ETHAN PRINGLE, JOSUNE BEREZIARTU, FREDDIE WILKINSON, JUSTIN ROTH, LAUREN LEE, DAVE MACLEOD, ANDY MANN
 
Marshall Burke Photography
Marshall Burke joins the crowded market of weekend warriors with friends who climb and has enough disposable income to blow on a fancy digital camera. Marshall searches out the finest splitters with his 8000 closest Bay Area friends in places like: Yosemite, Tuolumne, Joshua Tree, Donner Summit and Indian Creek. During the week he does research at the Program on Food Security at Stanford University. For more of his photos visit: www.stanford.edu/~mburke.
 
The Magic Wood, Switzerland
Join Philipp Hrozek, Ulrike, Korger, Elisabeth Flassbeck and few others on a journey to Switzerland's Magic Wood boulders. Problems featured in this video are the massive roof of Unendlich Geschichte (8a+), the Riverbed (8b), Enterprise Traverse (7a+), and Electric Boogie (8a+).
 
Timmy O'Neill profile by The Conservation Alliance and Timex Expedition
Timex Expedition has introduced Return to the Outdoors, a joint endeavor with Conrad Anker and the Conservation Alliance to inspire Americans to get outdoors and reconnect with nature. Here is the latest of a series of short films meant to inspire adventurers like yourselves to share your own outdoor experience at returntotheoutdoors.com. It features Timmy O’Neill highlining in Cracked Canyon at the Ophir Wall, San Juans, Colorado, and discussing why he loves mother nature.
 
It's "Dojo" time in Boulder, Colorado
By Mike Adamson / thespotgym.com - There comes a time in every gym rat’s life where you begin to crave more beyond the good ol’ walls you’ve come to know and love. Enter The Spot Bouldering Gym’s newest wall, the Dojo, unveiled September 5.
 
Recom-Beast (III 5.9) - Cathedral Ledge, NH
North Conway, tucked beneath the Moat Mountains of northern New Hampshire, is a climbers’ utopia. It’s a small town (pop. 2,000) bustling with climbing life: everywhere, climbers bike to morning guiding gigs, and then take coffee fuel-ups at The Frontside Grind before reeling off a half-dozen afternoon pitches ...
 
Anchor Replacement Initiative
298 Routes UPGRADED - Updated 8/15/08. Recent ARI activity: Boulder/Moab Gallery, Flatirons Anchor Work, Farley Ledge Photos, ARI Upgraded Route Master list, Climbing's ARI Volunteers, for more information on the program, and how to become a sanctioned equipper.
 


 
 
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