August 2012 – 307
The Guide: Balance: The best slab routes in New England. Plus, more great friction climbs in the U.S.
Poise Patrol: From mantels to no-handed boulder problems, these climbs will test your balancing skills.
Hemp Rope Classics: Eight still-outstanding rock climbs established before WWII.
La Valle: Gorgeous photos and 150 years of history from Val Masino, the Yosemite Valley of northern Italy.
Road Warriors: Skip the grueling high-altitude approaches—head to Colorado’s Mt. Evans for drive-up alpine crags.
SKILLS, GEAR, AND TRAINING
Find Your Footing: A trainer explains five ways to restore your balance.
Steady Yourself: Practice these three exercises to improve your balance, from How to Climb 5.12′s Eric Horst.
Slacklines: Wire-walking webbing for rest days. Plus, the Indo Board.
Descent Shoes: Five top shoes for getting down after the climb.
Tested: An airy helmet, high-performance shoes, and an all-around harness.
Alpine 101: Lessons from a 12-day course in the Cascades.
Multi-Pitch Efficiency: Blake Herrington gives six tips for streamlined, organized climbing.
The Calf Lock: Offwidth master Pamela Pack shows us an unconventional limb-lock for wide cracks.
Altitude Meds: We researched six widely used medicines for big-mountain climbs.
Teaching Kids to Climb: Robyn Erbesfield-Raboutou shares her parenting tips for young climbers.
Party of Three: Trim your trio time with guide Marc Chauvin’s simple trick.
Alpine Quickdraws: Shoulder-length slings and seven good ways to use them.
The Guide: Balance
Gear: Descent shoes, lightweight helmet, comfortable harness, and more.
Routes: Hemp Rope Classics
Clinics: Alpine draws, efficient multi-pitching, high-altitude drugs, offwidth skills, and more.