March 2011 – 293
Cracks of all sizes, from Indian Creek, Utah, to Squamish, B.C.
Timid topropers and the boldest leaders thrive side by side at Devil’s Lake, the Midwest’s most storied climbing area.
By Jay Knower, Photos by Andrew Burr
Spain is all about sport climbing on sunny limestone, right? Welcome to Pedriza, Spain’s mecca for granite friction slabs. No wonder this one of the birthplaces of sticky-rubber climbing shoes.
By John Connor
THE HOT LIST
Climbing’s inaugural guide to the best new routes and crags of the year: more than 175 amazing new climbs, from Alaska to North Carolina, and from 5.4 to 5.14.
Dionne Obeso, Jay Knower, Blake Herrington
More is better in the new Climbing.
Ethan Pringle’s astonishing return; Paul Robinson’s Euro-tour
Off the Wall
Spring migration: Climbing’s guide to the warmest, driest cragging destinations
Legends and lore of the Grand Teton
Coach Jimmie Redo
We test the new Grigri 2 and five other assisted-braking devices. Plus: easy-grab quickdraws, bargain crampons, and old-school boots back again
Footwork tips from an unlikely master
Friction, finger yoga, and more
A 5.10 mega-route at Index, Washington
California’s Shuteye Ridge is stacked with new routes.
Eric Zchiesche, artist and hard man