May 2010 – 285 – 40th Anniversary Edition

FEATURES

GALLERY
A Czech beauty, the jewel of the Lotus, and Captain America on a crack.

40 YEARS OF AMERICAN ROCK
Since May 1970, Climbing has covered the vertical world. Here, a look back (with a few twists) at four decades of ascents, clmbers, and ideas that shaped the flow of American rock climbing and made it what it is today.
By the Editors

HEIDI ALMIGHTY
Heidi Wirtz has always been bold on challenging rock. But after an eye-opening expedition to Pakistan, she’s taking on a new challenge: funding the education of young women in central Asia.
By Chris Weidner
Photos by Topher Donahue, Keith Ladzinski, Celin Serbo

BUOUX
At one time, this sunny limestone super-crag was at the center of the climbing world; today, it’s fallen from the limelight. But that doesn’t mean Buoux isn’t still world-class. Come see for yourself…
Words and photos by Jim Thornburg

DEPARTMENTS

CONTRIBUTORS
Topher Donahue, Craig DeMartino, Tom Slater, Beth Wald

EDITORIAL
40 years of Climbing Magazine

LETTERS

JUST OUT
Celebrate the thaw with sweet new schwag

HOT FLASHES
Daniel Woods gives us the lowdown on America’s first V16; more…

THE HAULBAG
A hairball belay sesh on the Bachar-Yerian; a Washington artist turns rocky vistas into wooden works; Overheard; more…

OFF THE WALL
SAR Wars!

PLAYERS
Colin Goodey and the great slate debate

TEN THINGS . . .
Climbing fiction

SPORTING LIFE
Daddy Loves You!: A day in the life of America’s most heinous cragging couple

ROADKILL
Cruel Summer: life and death on Werk Supp

SUSTAINED
New York state budget crisis threatens climbing access

CLASSIC CLIMBS
Bishop’s Terrace (I 5.8), Church Bowl, Yosemite Valley, California. A brilliant splitter experience in the granite crucible.

TECH TIPS
Trad: Munter madness, from beginner to advanced
Technique: Proper rope management for safer climbing

MILEAGE
Explore piles of trad, sport, and bouldering on California’s dreamy Central Coast

REVIEWS
Adaptation, the life of Andy Parkin; Climbing Stronger, Faster, Healthier: Beyond the Basics; Arno Ilgner is back with Espresso Lessons from the Rock Warrior’s Way; more…

ANCHORED
Eric Heigl tackles the spinners of North Carolina’s beloved sport crag, The Dump.

PERSPECTIVE
Adam Henry: crag developer, climbing gym owner, family man, teacher, solitude seeker; Oneonta, Alabama