News

  • 3/25/15 - John Frieh, from Portland, Oregon, teamed up with Alaskans Chad Diesinger and Jason Stuckey to climb a new route on the far right side of Mt. Dickey’s east face. Blue Collar Beatdown (V WI4 M4 65° snow) required 48 hours of effort, minus a four-hour ‘sit and suffer.’ Read More

  • "In my early climbing career, I nearly killed myself when I extended an anchor over an edge with just one long sling. After one climb, the sling was halfway cut through. I still carry the section on my keychain as a reminder." Read More

  • 3/17/15 - Ashima Shiraishi has climbed Open Your Mind Direct 9a+ (5.15a) in Santa Linya, Spain. Shiraishi climbed the route in a mere four days of attempts. While the original consensus grade of the route was 5.14d, a broken hold has lead some to suggest it could now be as hard as 5.15a. If the grade holds, she will be the first woman to climb a confirmed 5.15. Read More

  • "I was at the gym when I saw a guy “self-belaying” on toprope. He was tied into one side of the rope and he had a tube-style belay device clipped to his belay loop, which was attached to the free-hanging side of the rope. He would climb up five feet or so, pull the slack through his device, then continue up. I stopped him as soon as I saw what was going on." Read More

  • 3/13/15 - Mason Earle has redpointed a 35-meter overhanging finger crack in Bartlett Wash, outside Moab, Utah, and called it 5.14-, undoubtedly one of the hardest pure crack climbs in the United States. Read More

  • 3/13/15 - In late January Alex Megos from Germany claimed the third ascent of Lucid Dreaming in the Buttermilks, outside Bishop, California. Now Red Bull has released this short film of the ascent, created by Ken Etzel. Lucid Dreaming was established by Paul Robinson in 2010 and repeated by Daniel Woods early last year. Megos spent 11 days, overall, attempting the problem, his longest project yet. Read More

Blog

  • The True Cost of #Vanlife

    One thing that has always frustrated me about social media documentation of hashtag-van-life is the lack of transparency when it comes to money. We see these rad adventure mobiles parked in beautiful locales, captioned with some quote about how the mountains are calling, buying the ticket to take the ride, maximizing your one wild and precious life, or being mad to live, mad to talk, and mad to be saved. Poor Jack Kerouac and Mary Oliver didn't know their words would become the mantra of entitled trustafarians with a penchant for the Lo-Fi filter on Instagram. Yes, you have a rad van, a hot outdoorsy significant other, and the ability to climb anywhere, but how exactly are you paying for that? I'm not talking karma points in life; I'm talking cold, hard cash. As I've started dipping my toes in this world of what I call “regular extended mobility” (aka spending a few weeks at a time in my van every month), I decided I want to share my experiences as openly as possible, to help other van-dwelling hopefuls understand what it really takes to be part of this idealized but sometimes oversimplified community. Read More

  • Flowchart: Why Aren't You Climbing 5.14?

    5.14 represents the pinnacle of our sport. Sure, there’s 5.15 and someday there will probably be 5.16, but 5.14 separates the good from the great. It’s the grade that puts you in the top 1% of climbers. You can’t just be-tall your way past cruxes at this level. You need to have flawless technique, and you need to be really, really f***ing strong, physically and mentally. Few ever achieve it. In fact, according to our reader survey (Climbing No. 331), the majority of climbers believe 5.12 will be the hardest they’ll climb in their lifetime. But loftier grades are certainly possible with enough time and dedication. So why aren’t you climbing 5.14? Read More

  • Answer Man: Smelly Shoes are Ruining My Relationship

    Answer Man answers your burning questions about climber etiquette, customs, and values. This time: stinky shoes, warm-ups, and good skin. Read More