News

  • "I was climbing in the gym when I noticed a mom "belaying" her daughter nearby. Mom was holding the rope in her hands, pulling down slack without any form of mechanical assistance via tube-style device or Munter hitch as her daughter ascended the wall. I mentioned that she might consider getting a harness and belaying with a device, she told me she "wasn't tired" and that it was fine. Her kids weren't weightless three-year-olds, so we gave an employee a heads up. He said he disagreed with it, but there was some weird policy that allowed parents to belay how they wish, or something along those lines. A couple minutes later, we saw the same woman belaying both her daughter and her son at the same time with the same technique (see photo)." Read More

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  • 9/18/14 - Cheyne Lempe and Ethan Pringle found a new line up the very steep north face of Higher Cathedral Rock in Yosemite Valley, only the second route up the 1,000-foot overhanging wall. Read More

  • 9/17/14 - Ramón Julian Puigblanque not only took a silver medal in the lead climbing world championships last weekend, he also claimed a new world record in hangboard time. Julian clung to a pair of one-pad holds for 2 minutes 44.34 seconds to shatter the old record, set by Alex Megos earlier in September, by more than 30 seconds. Read More

  • 9/15/14 - Adam Ondra achieved an extraordinary double world championship in 2014, winning the lead climbing championship in Gijón, Spain, on September 14, three weeks after winning the bouldering worlds in Munich. Read More

  • An American team of 14 men and women collected seven medals in the finals of the Paraclimbing World Championships, held in Gijón, Spain. Read More

Blog

  • Semi-Rad: The Joy of Sloproping

    I will be the first to admit that I climb sloppily when I have a toprope guaranteeing my safety from above. Do you? I will try that desperate heel hook, or huck out of control for a hold above what would be a nasty ledge fall on lead, or just flat-out make dumb moves that would have bad consequences were I on the sharp end. Why not? It takes the edge off, right? Might as well try some shit. Usually I will announce in the first 20 feet of a climb, to myself or my belayer: “Man, toproping is awesome.” Read More

  • Ask Answer Man: How Do I Find a Good Climbing Partner?

    Answer Man answers your burning questions about climber etiquette, customs, and values. This time: finding partners, belay glasses, and crag pooping. Read More

  • Flowchart: Should You Let That Rando Belay You?

    You’re at the crag. You’re tied in. You’re ready to climb. At that very moment, your belayer’s breakfast burrito comes back with a vengeance. He runs off to take care of business (using LNT practices, of course). Across the crag, a lone climber spots you. He sprints at full speed, brandishing a belay device, and yelling, “Need a belay?” You do, but should you let this random person belay you? Read More