5.13 in High Sierra


Peter Croft and Dave Nettle have completed the most difficult rock climb in the High Sierra, a spectacular line on the Indredible Hulk formation, according to a report on www.supertopo.com. The 1,500-foot, called Air Stream lies between Positive Vibrations and Sun Spot Dihedral, and has one 5.13a pitch and two 5.12 pitches, including a 5.12+ stemming lead. The cruxes are bolt-protected. Croft led every pitch free, and Nettle did all but two pitches free.

Croft told Chris McNamara of Supertopo.com that the new route, which took about five days of work, was “definitely harder than Moonlight Buttress, and it’s much different than doing hard moves near the road in Yosemite or Zion. On this climb you are in the mountains. The clouds were building while I was leading the crux pitch. I knew if I fell I would have to rest a long time. By then a thunderstorm might have arrived.”

For more on the route and a photo of the approximate line, see http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?m=39931&f=25&b=0.

 



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