AAC Gives Nearly $20K in Climbing Grants

Dojitsenga, an unclimbed 5,700-meter peak in the Kangri Garpo Range of Tibet. Jonny Copp and Micah Dash hope to climb the striking east ridge (proposed line in red). Courtesy of Micah Dash.

The American Alpine Club has announced the 2008 winners of its two major expedition grants: the Lyman Spitzer Cutting-Edge Award and the McNeill-Nott Award. Seven grants totaling $19,500 will help American climbers attempt new routes from Alaska to Pakistan. 

The five winners of the Lyman Spitzer Award are: 

  • Vince Anderson, for an alpine-style attempt on the west face of Makalu in Nepal, with Steve House and Marko Prezelj. 
  • Micah Dash, who will journey to southeastern Tibet with Jonny Copp for an attempt on unclimbed Dojitsenga (ca. 5,700m). 
  • Ben Gilmore, for an attempt on the 11,400-foot Rabbit’s Ears, possibly the highest unclimbed peak in the Alaska Range, with Maxime Turgeon and Freddie Wilkinson. 
  • Chad Kellogg, who will travel to Sichuan, China, to attempt the southwest ridge of Siguniang with Dylan Johnson. 
  • Josh Wharton, for an attempt on the giant north face of Latok I with Whit Magro. 

Proposed lines on the west face of Makalu, the world’s fifth-highest peak. The face has never seen a direct ascent, and Vince Anderson, Steve House, and Marko Prezelj will attempt it alpine-style. Courtesy of Vince Anderson.

In addition, the AAC announced two winners of the second annual McNeill-Nott Award. This grant, backed by Mountain Hardwear, was created in honor of Karen McNeill and Sue Nott, who disappeared while climbing Mt. Foraker in Alaska. 

The 2008 winners of the McNeill-Nott Award are: 

  • Alex Alexiades, for exploration and new routes in the Suches Valley of the remote Cordillera Apolobamba, on the border of Bolivia and Peru, as part of a team of six climbers. 
  • Althea Rogers, for an expedition to attempt new free climbs on the granite domes of southeast Alaska’s Wood River Range, with Kate Rutherford, Madaleine Sorkin, and Emily Stifler. 

Each year, the AAC provides $40,000 in grant money for cutting-edge expeditions, mountain fellowships for young climbers, conservation and humanitarian projects, and scientific research. Learn more about the AAC grant program at americanalpineclub.org

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