Adam Ondra Makes First Ascent of 5.15b/c
8/22/13 - Adam Ondra has made his fifth 5.15b first ascent with Move in the Hanshelleren cave in Flatanger, Norway. The 180-foot route took Ondra several weeks to work out; he zeroed in on this line immediately after climbing the neighboring Iron Curtain (5.15b) in early August.
Right after he completed Iron Curtain, he said about Move: "I have been working extensively on [this] last three weeks, and I can't wait to see if today is gonna be the day, or I will keep falling off the insane top section many more days."
In an interview with UKClimbing.com, he said he chose this route "not because it was the easiest one to pick, not because it is the best line in the cave... But because I wanted to prove to myself that I can climb in the roof and that I have acquired some biceps power in the last years."
Ondra broke down the route in three parts: 65 feet of 5.13d climbing followed by 65 feet of 5.14c/d moves, and then ending with 40 feet of bouldery 5.14d after a knee-bar shake. In a short film about the new route produced by Petr Pavlicek, Ondra said of the final crux, "It's really hard to have this explosive power after having done so much climbing." Check out the moves in Pavlicek's film below, starting at 3:30 and again around 4:30, and you'll see what he means!
Ondra originally thought the route might be 9b+ (5.15c), and as hard as the route Change in the same cave, which Ondra climbed last year to create the world's first 5.15c. But eventually he found a better sequence and ended up giving Move a slightly easier grade.
Date of ascent: August 20, 2013