Americans Discover Ice Bonanza in Nepal

The climbs above Nemari, about 1.5 hours from Beding. The biggest flows are Nemari Left (4 pitches, WI5+) and Nemari Right (5 pitches, WI5). Photo by Joe Puryear

Dave Gottlieb and Joe Puryear have completed the first ascent of Takargo, a 6,771-meter (22,215-foot) peak in the Rolwaling Himal of Nepal. The two men, both from Washington state, climbed the east side of the peak from a high camp at 5,800 meters, reaching the top on March 12. Details and photos of this ascent will be available soon.

Meanwhile, Puryear has provided information about the waterfall ice climbing they discovered during the month of February around the village of Beding. The two men climbed 13 routes, from WI3 to WI6, most of which were likely first ascents. Puryear said there are about 30 waterfall routes (and possibly up to 50 in better conditions) within a couple of hours' walk from Beding, which is about four days' walk from the road.

Several of the first ascents were completed with Dawa Yangzum Sherpa, daughter of Norbu Sherpa, the American climbers' host in Beding.

David Gottlieb climbing on the amazing ice-canyoneering route called Beyul (700m, WI4). Photo by Joe Puryear.

David Gottlieb leading the first pitch of Broken Thumb (2 pitches, WI6). Photo by Joe Puryear.

Puryear said these ice climbs are probably fully formed by early December and likely last through February during most years. Most of the climbs are located between 3,400 and 4,200 meters, and with the longer days of February temperatures warmed to about -5°C (23°F) while Puryear and Gottlieb were there.

For more photos and additional information, visit Puryear's Climb Nepal blog.

Dates of Ascents: February 2010

Sources: Joe Puryear,


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Great post, Thanks for the information. I would like to know more about the climbs but i can't enter the blog, it appears i need an invitation for that. Is there a way of getting more info about the climbs? Thanks

Jelle Veyt - 12/26/2013 9:14:54