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	<title>ClimbingAmericans Rampage on British Grit</title>
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		<title>Americans Rampage on British Grit</title>
		<link>http://www.climbing.com/news/americans-rampage-on-british-grit-2/</link>
		<comments>http://www.climbing.com/news/americans-rampage-on-british-grit-2/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 15 Jun 2012 07:19:12 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>By Dougald MacDonald / <a href="http://themountainworld.com" target="_blank">The Mountain World</a></dc:creator>
		
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		<description><![CDATA[Kevin Jorgeson makes the key one-handed move on The Groove, one of many gritstone testpieces he repeated this fall. &#169; Cooper Roberts / Big UP Productions News Link: Americans Alex Honnold and Kevin Jorgeson have astonished British climbers with rapid repeats of some of the testiest routes on &#8220;God&#8217;s own rock,&#8221; the English gritstone. Honnold, [...]]]></description>
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<td><img src="http://static-dev-climbing.s3.amazonaws.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/The-Groove-2_23360.jpg" height="209" width="397" border="0" />
<div class="imagecaption"><a href="/climber/the-project-the-full-uncut-interview-from-climbing-no-289-and-dawn-wall-topo/" class="aim-internal-link">Kevin Jorgeson</a> makes the key one-handed move on <i>The Groove</i>, one of many gritstone testpieces he repeated this fall. &copy; Cooper Roberts / <a href="http://www.bigupproductions.com/#/blog/456/" target="_blank">Big UP Productions</a></div>
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<p><b>News Link: </b>Americans Alex Honnold and Kevin Jorgeson have astonished British climbers with rapid repeats of some of the testiest routes on &ldquo;God&rsquo;s own rock,&rdquo; the English gritstone. Honnold, a noted free-soloist, and Jorgeson, a noted highball boulderer, have applied bold tactics to numerous run-out gritstone routes and sparked a fresh debate on British grading. The repeats include:&nbsp;</p>
<ul>
<li><i>The New Statesman </i>(E8 7a, Jorgeson)
<li><i>The Parthian Shot </i>(E9 6c, Jorgeson, first ground-up E9 ascent)
<li><i>The Promise </i>(E10 7a, Jorgeson and Honnold, second and third ascents)
<li><i>Gaia </i>(E8 6c, Honnold flash, Jorgeson and Mat Segal headpoints)
<li><i>Meshuga </i>(E9 6c, solos by Honnold and Jorgeson)
<li><i>The Groove </i>(E10 7b, Jorgeson, second ascent, with variation)&nbsp;</ul>
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<div class="imagecaption">Jorgeson making the second ascent of <i>The Groove</i>. &copy; Cooper Roberts / <a href="http://www.bigupproductions.com/#/blog/456/" target="_blank">Big UP Productions</a></div>
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<p><a href="http://www.UKClimbing.com" target="_blank"><b>UKClimbing.com</b></a> has extensive reports on these recent ascents, as well as discussion of the climbs and grades. Visit <a href="http://www.kevinjorgeson.com/Travels.pdf" target="_blank"><b>Kevin Jorgeson&rsquo;s blog</b></a> for his own reflections on his climbs.&nbsp;</p>
<p><b>Dates of Ascents:</b> October-November 2008</p>
<p><a title="Hot Flashes News" href="http://forums.climbing.com/forum/showflat.php?Cat=0&amp;Number=5275&amp;page=0&amp;vc=#Post5275" target="_blank"><b><font color="red">Comment on this story</font></b></a></p>
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<div class="imagecaption">Kevin Jorgeson falling off the English Gritstone testpiece <i>Gaia</i> (E8 6c). He clipped a pad at the bottom but was unharmed and later sent the route. The  <i>Gaia</i> fall became infamous after <a href="http://www.slackjaw.co.uk" target="_blank">Slackjaw&#8217;s</a> film <i>Hard Grit</i> (1998) when Jean-minh Trin-Thieu took the famous winger off the crux and broke his leg. Sequence courtesy of <a href="http://www.kevinjorgeson.com/" target="_blank">Kevin Jorgeson</a>.</div>
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