Another V15 for Robinson


Paul Robinson on Big Paw (V15) in Chironico, Switzerland. Photo by Alex Kahn

2/9/11 - As weather seemed to deteriorate everywhere, Paul Robinson took advantage of a good weather window in Fontainebleau, France, and repeated Sebastien Frigault's 2003 Trip Hop (V15). This is likely the third ascent of the problem (Germany's Thomas Willenberg grabbed the second ascent in 2007), which starts left of and traverses into Hip Hop sit start (V13).

This is Robinson's fifth V15 while on his extended trip to Europe (see From Dirt Grows the Flowers and Ill Trill in Chironico and Magic Wood, Switzerland). In Fontainebleau, since his arrival in December, he's climbed at least 16 V12s or harder, including three V14s. Adding to his Switzerland trip (and he plans to return after Font), he's climbed an astounding four dozen V12s or harder.

For the current issue of Climbing (March 2011, No. 293), we caught up with Robinson while he was still in Switzerland to talk about his veritable sending spree. Excerpt below:

What are your favorite problems so far?
There are so many amazing lines here, but probably Ninja Skills (V14) in Sobrio, Switzerland. It was amazing to make the second ascent after Nalle [Hukkataival] of such a world-class boulder. The rock is great, and the movement is perfect. It's a long line that makes you fight the entire way...

You had a pretty serious tick list when you arrived, including Story of Two Worlds (V15), which you still haven't done. What's the draw for routes like this?
I love the fight it takes to get up these boulders. It's a lengthy process to figure out moves that in the beginning seem impossible, and then fianlly sending them in the end makes it all worthwhile. I'm highly motivated by lines that have just enough features to make it from start to finish...

What's the Euro climbing culture like?
I've noticed that climbing seems to be way more accepted in Europe. Sometimes you'll see entire families out at the boulders, enjoying a weekend afternoon. It also lends itself to a more relaxed lifestyle that seems to create a less competitive vibe...

Pick up the latest copy of Climbing to read the full interview with photos.

Date of ascent: February 7, 2011

Sources: 8a.nu, bleau.info, Climbing

 



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