Austrians Dominate Vail, Puccio Takes Second
6/5/11 – Throngs of spectators gathered at yesterday’s Bouldering World Cup at the Teva Mountain Games in Vail, Colorado, to watch Austrian power couple Kilian Fischhuber and Anna Stöhr dominate finals. Alex Puccio and France’s Melissa Le Neve took second and third, while Russia’s Dmitry Sharafutdinov and German Jonas Baumann medaled in the men’s comp. (No U.S. men made finals.)
Fischhuber commanded the men’s comp, flashing all four problems. Sharafutdinov flashed three, with a second-try send of men’s 2. Baumann, in third place, topped out two problems, with one flash.
Stöhr flashed three problems, sending number 2 on her third attempt. The dyno on women’s 2 gave the women some trouble; Payne and Le Neve sent after several attempts, but Puccio, Akiyo Noguchi (Japan), and Jain Kim (Korea) walked away with no finish. Puccio redeemed herself by flashing numbers 3 and 4. Le Neve topped three boulders, with flash on number 1.
Problem one for both men and women didn’t seem to faze most competitors: nine out of the 12 climbers flashed the boulders. Men’s 2 and 4 proved tricky as only two men topped out both boulders. The women had trouble sticking the bonus hold on number 3; the first three women walked off the pads without a send. Competitors seemed to amp up for the final problem, as four climbers flashed the problems, and two sent second-go.
Japan’s Rei Sugimoto led going into finals, but only topped two boulders. Australian Chris Webb-Parsons and Frenchman Guillaume Glairon Mondet—both incredibly strong outdoor boulderers who have sent up to V15 and V14 respectively—disappointingly didn’t top any boulders.
Uncommonly, Daniel Woods, who won last year’s Vail Cup, did not make finals, finishing the semis in 11th place. Other U.S. men’s finishes: Julian Bautista, 9th; Austin Geiman, 12th; Zach Lerner, 14th; Ian Dory, 17th; Carlo Traversi, 19th; Dave Wetmore, 28th; Matt Wilder, 29th; Kyle Owen, 33rd; Josh Larson, 37th; Ryan Sewell, 40th; Alex Johnson, 44th; and Garrett Gregor, 47th.
The female Alex Johnson, who’s competed in every 2011 Boulder World Cup alongside Puccio, finished just out of finals in seventh place. Other U.S. women’s finishes: Dana Riddle, 9th; Tiffany Hensley, 12th; Tyler Youngwerth, 13th; Chelsea Rude, 17th; Kasia Pietras, 19th; Francesca Metcalf, 23rd; Sarah Shaw, 25th; Portia Menlove, 27th; Courtney Sanders, 28th; and Isabelle Faus, 31st.
Stöhr leads the world ranking by a wide berth; Noguchi and Puccio follow in second and third with a small margin between them. Sharafutdinov ranks first, followed very closely by Fischhuber (a strong comeback, considering he didn’t make it to finals in the last two comps), with Glairon Mondet trailing in third.
Next up is Eindhoven on June 17.
Below, highlights from the comp.
Women’s final results:
- Anna Stöhr (AUT)
- Alex Puccio (USA)
- Melissa Le Neve (FRA)
- Jain Kim (KOR)
- Akiyo Noguchi (JPN)
- Angie Payne (USA)
Men’s final results:
- Kilian Fischhuber (AUT)
- Dmitry Sharafutdinov (RUS)
- Jonas Baumann (GER)
- Rei Sugimoto (JPN)
- Guillaume Glairon Mondet (FRA)
- Chris Webb-Parsons (AUS)