Austrians Rule American Roost: Lead World Cup


Jakob Schubert on his way to his sixth consecutive Lead World Cup win. Photo by Alton Richardson

10/10/11 - A sold-out crowd of about 1,300 people packed into Movement Climbing + Fitness last night to see who would take the gold at the Lead World Cup in Boulder, Colorado, the first to be held on U.S. soil in more than 20 years. (A reported 20,000 more people watched the live stream on ifsc.tv.)

Jakob Schubert and Johanna Ernst of Austria stood atop the podium, each having made the clear high point on their respective routes (no one finished the routes). Sachi Amma of Japan and Mina Markovic (who was first going into finals) placed second, followed by Romain Desgranges of France and Momoka Oda of Japan. This is Schubert's sixth consecutive win in a Lead World Cup.

Our own Sasha DiGiulian and Matty Hong were the sole Americans to make finals, and each climbed well, placing seventh and sixth, respectively. DiGiulian moved through the women's route, characterized by tiny crimps, easily until a long reach around a corner off a crimp, which defined the crux and, hence, the spot where most women fell.

Johanna Ernst resting before she cruised through the moves that spit most women off. Photo by Alton Richardson

Hong, the first male to climb, also climbed impressively well. The men's route started with a huge jump—some climbers flat-out dynoed, but others managed to reach without cutting feet—then traversed left through a series of cryptic moves that produced bat hangs, knee bars, iron crosses, and even one-armed hangs.

Sean McColl, the other North American male to make it to finals, climbed easily through the bottom section but experienced a disappointing and sudden foot slip that resulted in seventh place.

Schubert is the clear leader in rankings by almost 200 points, followed by Amma and Puigblanque. Markovic leads the women's rankings by a wide margin, followed by Korea's Jain Kim (who couldn't compete last night apparently due to visa issues) and Vidmar.

Click here for a photo gallery by art intern Alton Richardson.

Women's Final Results:

  1. Johanna Ernst (Austria)
  2. Mina Markovic (Slovenia)
  3. Momoka Oda (Japan)
  4. Maja Vidmar (Slovenia)
  5. Angela Eiter (Austria)
  6. Akiyo Noguchi (Japan)
  7. Sasha DiGiulian (USA)
  8. Charlotte Durif (France)

Men's Final Results:

  1. Jakob Schubert (Austria)
  2. Sachi Amma (Japan)
  3. Romain Desgranges (France)
  4. Manual Romain (France)
  5. Jorg Verhoeven (Netherlands)
  6. Matty Hong (USA)
  7. Sean McColl (Canada)
  8. Ramon Julian Puigblanque (Spain)

U.S. finishes, women's:

Chelsea Rude (11th); Paige Claassen (13th); Delaney Miller (15th); Alex Johnson (16th); Michaela Kiersch (18th); Audrey Sniezek (19th); Emily Harrington (21st); Tiffany Hensley (22nd); Amelia Metcalf (24th); Alyrene Dorey (25th); Amanda Sutton (26th)

U.S. finishes, men's:

Carlo Traversi (11th); Ben Hoberg (16th); Noah Ridge (18th); Ian Dory (20th); Josh Levin (23rd); Ryan Sewell (24th); Ben Spannuth (25th); Shane Puccio (27th); Owen Graham (28th); Alex David Johnson (29th); Kevin McCartney (30th); Steve Hong (34th)

See the full results here.

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