Bad Girls Club (5.14d) Sees Quick Repeat


UPDATED: 9/27/11 - Joe Kinder has repeated Bad Girls Club (5.14d) in Rifle, a route he bolted in Rifle, Colorado. Matty Hong grabbed the first ascent in August, and Jonathan Siegrist made the second ascent earlier this month. Kinder had just returned from a trip to South Africa. He said on his blog, "Oh yeah… I climbed Bad Girls Club yesterday… WEEHOO!!!!!! I really don’t think you could whip the smile off my mug today… life is good."

9/7/11 - Rifle's newest, and potentially hardest, route saw its second ascent this week by Jonathan Siegrist. Bad Girls Club, suggested by FAer Matty Hong as 5.14d, was bolted last year by Joe Kinder and follows a steep line in the Wicked Cave. Siegrist, who is spending some time on the Western Slope bolting new routes, gave eight attempts for the redpoint. He expected to struggle on the route: "I have never really shined at Rifle, and the style is neither my best or my favorite," he said. "However, this route turned out to be mostly resistance with a bit of power endurance. It actually suited me quite well."

Here's how he describes the 17-bolt line: "The climb begins up a chossy zone (as do all of the Wicked Cave routes) with some hard movement through a variety of holds. Around the sixth bolt, you're met with your first rest—the best on the route. You've just climbed a solid 5.13c to here, and the route only gets harder. Out of the rest, a long resistance section through dramatically improving rock takes you to a second, less beneficial resting spot—a roof towers above you. Enter the steepest section of the route with a few quick moves, and fire through cryptic knee-bars, pinches, crimps, and everything else. A long series of moves gets you through this relatively short section, ending with a super-powerful undercling sequence, and a heartbreaker finish."

He linked the route to the finish on his second day, and fell going to the finish jug on the third day. After resting a few days in Boulder, Siegrist went back and fired Bad Girls Club on his first try. Regarding the climb's grade, he says: "I did BGC on my eighth try—much faster than my other 5.14d's [Pure Imagination, Golden Direct, Kryptonite], and almost twice as fast as I did Necessary Evil (5.14c) earlier this year. I'm beginning to speculate that 'your number of attempts' is really a flawed standard for judging difficulty. Grades are everywhere, and differ for every climber, at every crag. I think the best we can do is try to keep consistency within areas, remain honest, and also expect to get shut down, and kick ass from time to time. On that note, I'd like to repeat a few other hard routes in the canyon before I feel confident to defend or deny BGC at 5.14d."

Date of ascent: September 2011

Source: jstarinorbit.com

 


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