Bouldering News

Who's pushing the limits in bouldering? Find out here. Climbing magazine reports cutting-edge bouldering news from around the world: the hardest new problems, the most amazing onsights, and up-and-coming boulderers you need to know about.
  • HPcenturyclimb

    Climb of the Century? 7 Groundbreaking Ascents (Besides the Dawn Wall)

    2/2/15 - As the media frenzy swelled through January, both climbing and mass-market writers repeatedly called the Dawn Wall the "climb of the century." But are there other contenders?

  • ABS-OPEN-Insta

    2015 ABS National Championships Schedule and Streaming Info

    USA Climbing, the United States National Governing Body for the sport of competition climbing announced that it will webcast both Open and Youth Bouldering National Championships starting next week in Madison, WI. Here is a quick breakdown of the schedule and livestream info.

  • HPUnBBoulderingNotTeamSport

    Unbelayvable: Bouldering is Not a Team Sport

    "I saw a boulderer get stuck and climb another climber through two sections of the 25-foot highball Heavenly Path (V1) in Bishop, California."

  • The Grandpa Peabody Boulder, with the line of The Process (possible V16) at far right. Lucid Dreaming (V15) climbs left of Evilution. Photo by Andy Mann, courtesy of Kevin Jorgeson.

    Woods Serves The Process (V16?)

    1/18/15 - Daniel Woods has completed a much-tried super-project on the Grandpa Peabody Boulder in California's Buttermilks. According to various reports, Woods called the new problem The Process.

  • HPUnbEdit

    Unbelayvable: The Best of the Worst of 2014! (Part 2)

    This week we're highlighting some of the most unbelievable Unbelayvable stories of 2014. It's one superlative you don't want to achieve.

  • Kipras Baltrunas of Lithuania digs deep for his hang time of 1:22. Competitors can choose to hang with straight arms or locked off. Courtesy of Zlagboard.

    How Long Could You Hang On?

    9/17/14 - Ramón Julian Puigblanque not only took a silver medal in the lead climbing world championships last weekend, he also claimed a new world record in hangboard time. Julian clung to a pair of one-pad holds for 2 minutes 44.34 seconds to shatter the old record, set by Alex Megos earlier in September, by more than 30 seconds.

  • Screen Shot 2014-08-23 at 3.12.31 PM

    Ondra, Wurm Win Bouldering World Championships, Puccio Takes Silver

    8/23/14 - Adam Ondra and Juliane Wurm won a dramatic Bouldering World Championships in Munich, Germany, on Saturday. American Alex Puccio finished second in the women's competition, needing just one attempt more than Wurm to finish three out of the four final problems.

  • Poo

    Study Finds 'Fecal Veneer' on Gym Holds

    8/11/14 - The next time your gym partner says "That's a crappy hold!" she may mean more than size or texture. In a study published this summer in Current Microbiology, researchers found that every gym hold they tested had traces of microorganisms associated with fecal matter.

  • Jumper Dies at Deep Water Soloing Area in Mallorca

    7/17/14 - A 23-year-old died yesterday at a deep water soloing area on the Mediterranean island of Mallorca. After jumping from the cliffs at the Dique del Oeste area, the man stayed underwater for 20 minutes for unknown reasons and presumably drowned.

  • Shauna Coxsey on New Base Line (V14), Switzerland. Photo by Luka Tambača (facebook.com/shauna.coxsey.3)

    Shuana Coxsey Climbs New Base Line (V14)

    7/12/14 - The British boulderer Shauna Coxsey has done New Base Line (8B+/V14) in Magic Wood, Switzerland, making her the third female to climb the grade.

  • Ashima Shiraishi Becomes Second Female To Climb V14

    7-11-14 Ashima Shiraishi has become the second female to climb V14 ever! Yesterday, Shiraishi sent Golden Shadow (V14) in Rocklands, South Africa. The route was originally put up by Fred Nicole in 2004 with a suggested grade of V15, but was downgraded as it saw further ascents. The 13-year-old climbing marvel also repeated Beta Move (V13) during her trip, which gives her five V13s in her impressive career this far.

  • Alex Puccio Breaks Into V13 With Top Notch In RMNP

    Alex Puccio sent her first V13 this week, on day two of working Top Notch in Chaos Canyon, Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado. Puccio announced the send on Monday via her Facebook page.

  • Akiyo Noguchi

    Noguchi, Hojer Win 2014 IFSC Boulder World Cup

    After eight events spread across seven countries, this year’s IFSC Boulder World Cup has come to a close. Japan’s Akiyo Noguchi and Germany’s Jan Hojer are this year’s champions in the women’s and men’s divisions, respectively. It was an exciting season, that all came down to the final event in Laval, France.

  • Two V15s In One Day For Sachi Amma

  • Great Britain's Shauna Coxsey, second in the Chongqing World Cup. Photo courtesy of IFSC.

    Germans Top Podium in First 2014 World Cup

    4/27/14 - Jan Hojer and Juliane Wurm won the first Boulder World Cup of 2014, in Chongqing, China. It was the second World Cup bouldering win for both German climbers.

  • Man Found Dead at Boulder Climbing Gym

    On Monday, January 27, a climber was declared dead after being found unresponsive at the Boulder Rock Club, according to the Daily Camera, a news outlet in Boulder, Colorado.

  • Access Fund Announces 2013 Sharp End Award Winners

    Annually, the Access Fund rewards the individuals, organizations, and businesses that exceed expectations in their efforts to maintain the climbing environment.

  • Mirko-Caballero-Meadowlark-Lemon-V13

    Caballero Sends Meadowlark Lemon Stand (V13) in Red Rock

    1/6/14 - The not-quite-13-year-old Mirko Caballero has climbed his second V13 with the stand start to Meadowlark Lemon. (The sit start is the V15 that Paul Robinson established.)

  • Nine-year-old Angie Scarth-Johnson stands a little over 4 feet tall but has redpointed 5.13d. Photo by Simon Carter / Onsight.com.au

    What's Next for 9-Year-Old Angie Scarth-Johnson?

    12/31/13 - When 9-year-old Australian girl Angie Scarth-Johnson redpointed Swingline at the Red River Gorge in November, she became the youngest person ever to climb 5.13d.

  • Climbers-Against-Cancer-Golden-Piton-158

    Golden Pitons 2013 - Community

    Englishman John Ellison was diagnosed with cancer in late 2011 and given only a few years to live. Ellison had been judging climbing comps for about a decade, and at the world championships in Paris, nearly a year after his diagnosis, he had an epiphany: The climbing community was like a vast and yet very close family.

  • Jimmy-Webb-Future-Trippin-V13-158

    Golden Pitons 2013 - Bouldering

    From the Deep South last winter to Europe in the spring, and then on to South Africa in the summer and Colorado in the fall, Jimmy Webb seemed to be everywhere and climbing everything, usually in blazing speed.

  • Daniel-Woods-Nest-158

    Woods Makes V15 First Ascent, Webb Quickly Follows Suit

    12/19/13 - Daniel Woods has made the first ascent of The Nest in Red Rock, Nevada, calling it V15.

  • Gabriele-Moroni-Insanity-of-Grandeur-158

    V15 Ascents at Fontainebleau, Chironico

    12/9/13 - Italy's Gabriele Moroni has climbed his first V15 with Insanity of Grandeur in Chironico, Switzerland.

  • Daniel-Woods-Meadowlark-Lemon-158

    Woods, Webb: Back-to-Back Ascents of Meadowlark Lemon (V15)

    12/9/13 - Just two days apart, Daniel Woods and Jimmy Webb grabbed consecutive ascents of Paul Robinson's Meadowlark Lemon (V15) in Red Rock, Nevada.

  • Daniel-Woods-Defying-Gravity-V15-158

    Defying Gravity: Woods Establishes V15 in Colorado

    11/21/13 - Daniel Woods has claimed his 19th (that's right, 19th) V15 boulder problem with the first ascent of the aptly named Defying Gravity.

  • Dragon Turns

    Amputee Ronnie Dickson Boulders V9

    11/15/13 - Ronnie Dickson, a 26-year-old above-knee amputee from Florida, sent Dragon's Turn (V9) in the Shawangunks of New York after three days of effort. The problem was Dickson's hardest yet, and he is believed to be the second leg amputee in the U.S. to boulder V9, after Craig DeMartino.

  • Pat Ament on Overhanging Hand Traverse, Flagstaff Mountain, Boulder, around 1970.

    Ament Named to Boulder Sports Hall of Fame

    10/15/13 - Pat Ament, one of the leaders of 1960s bouldering and free climbing in America, was inducted into the Boulder Sports Hall of Fame in late September. Ament, 67, entered the hall of fame along with cyclist Dale Stetina, runner Steve Jones, and triathlete Joanne Ernst.

  • Climbing-in-the-Gunks-at-Mohonk-420

    Construction Begins On Long-Awaited Gunks Campground

    9/27/13 - The American Alpine Club and Mohonk Preserve announced that ground has been broken on a new, 50-site climber campground for the Shawangunks, one of America's most historic and popular climbing areas.

  • Photo courtesy of Eldorado Canyon State Park.

    Progress, Frustration in Flood-Damaged Colorado

    9/26/13 - Since Climbing's report last weekend on the September floods' impact on Colorado climbing, glimmers of hope have emerged for rock-starved Front Range climbers.

  • EldoRd_-S-Bldr-Cr-600cfs_346-660

    Floods Lead to Unprecedented Shutdown of Colorado Climbing

    The flooding across northeastern Colorado took an enormous human and economic toll. And though it pales by comparison, climbers across Boulder and the northern Front Range are recognizing another toll as they dry out their homes and get back to work: the fall climbing season has been erased from the calendar, and the future for many local climbing areas is extremely uncertain.

  • Jimmy-Webb-Wheel-of-Wolvo

    Jimmy Webb Adds V15 to Colorado

    9/5/13 - Jimmy Webb has established a potential V15 at the alpine bouldering hotspot of Lincoln Lake, Colorado.

  • Ashima-Automator-V13-158

    Ashima Climbs The Automator (V13) in RMNP

    8/28/13 - Twelve-year-old Ashima Shiraishi has climbed The Automator (V13) in Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado. This is at least her fourth V13.

  • Alex Megos Adds Hollow Mountain Cave's Hardest Link-Up (5.15a)

    8/26/13 - German phenom Alex Megos may have broken set another climbing record in Australia: A week after making the first ascent of Australia's hardest route, the 20-year-old has established a new link-up in the Grampians' Hollow Mountain Cave, where the famed Wheel of Life traverses the length of the cave.

  • 2013 Boulder World Cup season champions: Anna Stöhr (center), Akiyo Noguchi (left), and Alex Puccio (right).

    Alex Puccio Wins Silver in Boulder World Cup

    8/26/13 - Alex Puccio of the U.S. wrapped up the 2013 Boulder World Cup season on a high note as she earned a silver medal in Munich, Germany. With this strong result, her best finish of the year, Puccio concludes the 2013 bouldering season ranked in third place, the second time she has reached this milestone.

  • Shiraishi, Caballero Climb Same V13 in Magic Wood, Switzerland

    8/14/13 - Twelve-year-olds Mirko Caballero and Ashima Shiraishi have climbed One Summer in Paradise (V13) in Magic Wood, Switzerland.

  • Anna-Stohr-Power-of-One-V13

    Anna Stohr Climbs Two V13s in Rocklands, South Africa

    8/14/13 - Austrian Anna Stöhr climbed two V13s (both first female ascents) in a week in Rocklands, South Africa: The Power of One and The Vice.

  • Daniel-Woods-Wheel-of-Life

    Woods Repeats Wheel of Life (V15/5.14d) in Grampians

    7/30/13 - During his visit to Grampians, Australia, Daniel Woods made an ascent of Dai Koyamada's Wheel of Life (V15/5.14d) in the Hollow Mountain Cave.

  • Alex Megos Makes Quick Repeat of Wheel of Life (V15/5.14d)

    7/16/13 - German teenager Alex Megos has made an extraordinarily quick repeat of the famous The Wheel of Life (V15/5.14d) in Grampians, Australia's Hollow Mountain Cave.

  • Jimmy Webb Flashes Rocklands V13, V14

    7/1/13 - During a stint in South Africa, Jimmy Webb has flashed two of Rocklands' most popular hard boulder problems: The Vice and Sky.

  • Shauna-Coxsey-Roof-Baby-Buddha-V10

    Shauna Coxsey Finishes Nuthin but Sunshine (V13)

    6/27/13 - Briton Shauna Coxsey reported on Twitter that she climbed Nuthin' but Sunshine (V13) in Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado, joining the very small group of women that have climbed this grade.

  • Floods Set Back Canadian Rockies Season

    Climbers expecting to travel to the Canadian Rockies for alpine or sport routes this summer may need to alter their plans after massive floods in southern Alberta devastated the town of Canmore and surrounding areas. More than 8 inches of rain fell in Canmore last week, causing normally small streams such as Cougar Creek, site of many popular sport climbs, to swell into vast and churning rivers, causing extensive damage.

  • Hukkataival Grabs Second Ascent of La Force Tranquille (V15)

    6/20/13 - Finnish climber Nalle Hukkataival has made the second ascent of Daniel Woods' La Force Tranquille (V15) in Magic Wood, Switzerland.

  • Russian, Austrian Victories at Vail World Cup

    6/9/13 - Russian Dimitri Sharafutdinov and Austrian Anna Stöhr won the only bouldering IFSC World Cup on U.S. soil this year, capping a two-day competition at the GoPro Mountain Games in Vail, Colorado.

  • Woods, Robinson Repeat The Ice Knife (V15)

    5/20/13 - Daniel Woods and Paul Robinson have made the second and third ascents, respectively, of Dave Graham's V15 in Guanella Pass, Colorado, called The Ice Knife.

  • Puccio Third in Bouldering World Cup

    4/29/13 - Alex Puccio took bronze in the Boulder World Cup in Kitzbühel, Austria, last weekend.

  • Nalle-Hukkataival-Bugeleisen-V14

    Hukkataival Finishes Bugeleisen (V14) in 'Epic' Conditions

    4/18/13 - Nalle Hukkataival completed what he calls his "most epic battle" with an ascent of Bügeleisen (V14) in Maltatal in the Austrian Alps.

  • Traversi Makes First Ascent of The Kingdom (V15)

    4/3/13 – Carlo Traversi has made the first ascent of The Kingdom (V15) in Brione, Switzerland, making it his sixth at this grade.

  • Carlo-Traversi-Story-of-Two-Worlds

    Traversi Climbs The Story of Two Worlds (V15)

    3/26/13 - Carlo Traversi has made an ascent of The Story of Two Worlds (V15) in Cresciano, Switzerland.

  • V15 for Robinson, V14s for Webb

    3/22/13 - Paul Robinson made the first ascent of what could be a V15 in Arkansas: The New Chapter.

  • New Olympic Plan: Climbers Must Compete in Bouldering, Lead, and Speed

    If climbing makes it into the Olympics in 2020, the medalists will have to be all-around masters of plastic. To win gold under a new IFSC proposal for the Games, climbers will have to compete in all three competition disciplines: bouldering, lead, and speed.