December 2007 - 262

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Cover: Dave MacLeod listens to Flock Talk (E8 6c), Outer Hebrides Islands, Scotland.

Cover: Dave MacLeod listens to Flock Talk (E8 6c), Outer Hebrides Islands, Scotland.

FEATURES

GALLERY Serenity now: green sandstone and SoDak crystals, a verglas-thin slice of Little Cottonwood ice, and streaking up a brilliant 5.12 FA in wildest California.

DUMBY DAVE We’ve all heard of Rhapsody, the world’s first E11 — a trad 5.14c R/X in Scotland, done last year. But few delved into the obsessed mind of its author, Dave MacLeod . . . until now. By Dougald MacDonald

GIVE ME CONVENIENCE OR GIVE ME DEATH Is there such a thing as roadside, alpine multi-pitch? John Connor and Andrew Burr visit the northern Cascades — Washington Pass — to find out. By John Connor Photos by Andrew Burr

I, BOULDERER It’s time to go big on Yosemite’s small rocks, for some sweet, new-school bouldering up the Big Ditch’s wildest and proudest blocs yet. By Matt Wilder Photos by John Dickey

BLANK CHECK Sixty-nine years ago, four determined Austrians pioneered the Eigernordwand, the mile-high Swiss Wall of Death. This year, the indefatigable Jonny Copp and partner Steve Su made the pilgrimage . . . and Copp brought a pen and his camera. Story and photos by Jonny Copp

DEPARTMENTS

CONTRIBUTORS Matt Wilder, John Dickey, Jonny Copp, and Dougald MacDonald — ready to rumble in the December-issue jungle

EDITORIAL The Life: why being an elite climber is so much harder than it looks

LETTERS BASECAMP HOT FLASHES OFF THE WALL JUST OUT TEN THINGS GET SCRAPPY ROADKILL SUSTAINED

CLASSIC CLIMBS Comic Relief (III 5.10b), Black Canyon of the Gunnison, Colorado — “adventure cragging” on a thousand-foot granite wall

TECH TIPS Aid: Here comes the topstepper, ready for big-wall efficiency! Training: Cheater’s banquet — how to climb at the rock gym . . . without pulling down

REVIEWS Devils Tower (guidebook) extreme; National Geographic takes you on a 3D geek-out; and a collection of essays that matter, from Pat Ament

PERSPECTIVE Robyn Erbesfield-Raboutou: World Cup champion, world champion mom, climber, teacher