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	<title>ClimbingEuros Take Down High-end 5.14s in France</title>
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		<title>Euros Take Down High-end 5.14s in France</title>
		<link>http://www.climbing.com/news/euros-take-down-high-end-5-14s-in-france/</link>
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		<pubDate>Thu, 23 Aug 2012 22:03:57 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>By Amanda Fox</dc:creator>
		
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.climbing.com/?post_type=news&#038;p=185752</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[8/23/12 - The Déversé sector of France's Gorges du Loup has seen a flurry of hard sends recently. ]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>The Brussels, Belgium–born climber Muriel Sarkany climbed her first 5.14c on Tuesday with <em>Ultimate Sacrifice</em>, a link-up of <em>New Power Generation</em> (5.13d) and <em>Last Soul Sacrifice</em> (5.14b) that French hardman Axel Franco first climbed in the late 1990s. Sarkany said on her <a href="http://www.murielsarkany.com/index.php?news=89&amp;section=invivo#c89" target="_blank">blog</a> she most struggled on the first, bouldery crux: &#8220;I had to hold a small pinch with my feet very far under a roof, and go to a pocket quite slippery and hold it without any feet, while keeping balance.&#8221; Starting her last attempt in hot weather and with anxiety, Sarkany was finally able to calm down and make each move (&#8220;screaming on each,&#8221; she said) to the anchor. &#8220;I wasn&#8217;t afraid to fall, but I enjoyed each last movement because I knew what I was doing,&#8221; she said. &#8220;It was perfect!&#8221;</p>
<p>Sarkany, 38, is a former World Cup champion. She first started appearing in the competitions in the early 1990s, and in 1995 began finishing regularly in the top 10. In the late &#8217;90s and early 2000s, Sarkany was consistently on the podium, with many gold medals in World Cups, World Championships, and Arco Rockmasters.</p>
<p>Also at Déversé, 18-year-old Polish climber Aleksander Raczyński climbed <em>Abyss</em>, an overhanging 5.14d punctuated with a long tufa, on the right side of the cliff. He <a href="http://alexraczynski.wordpress.com/2012/08/19/summet-time-part-2-abyss/" target="_blank">describes</a> the route as having two parts: the first section is easier and steeper, followed by a hard sequence to the second section: the tufa. This is not Raczyński&#8217;s first 5.14d; he&#8217;s also climbed <em>San Ku Kai</em> at Entraygues, near Briançon, France.<em> Abyss</em> was opened and first climbed by Frenchman Alex Chabot, who, like Sarkany, has an impressive collection of World Cup medals.</p>
<p>Lastly, German climber Daniel Jung redpointed <em>Kick Ass</em>, the 5.14d Enzo Oddo recently <a href="http://www.climbing.com/news/hotflashes/oddo_three_514ds_in_a_week/" target="_blank">completed</a>. Jung first tried the line last year with first ascensionist Cedric lo Piccolo&#8217;s recommendation. He spent a week attempting the route, but kept getting stuck falling right before and right after one particular move. This year, he finished it the day before the end of his trip.</p>
<p>&#8220;It&#8217;s not easy to try a route for a long time and fall again and again on the same move,&#8221; Jung <a href="http://daniel-jung.blogspot.com/2012/08/kick-ass-summer-trip.html" target="_blank">said</a>. &#8220;[It's] a mentally hard thing, but I was motivated. The moves are awesome, and I had a lot of fun.&#8221;</p>
<p>Dates of ascents: August 2012</p>
<p>Sources: <a href="http://www.murielsarkany.com/index.php?news=89&amp;section=invivo#c89" target="_blank">murielsarkany.com</a>, <a href="http://alexraczynski.wordpress.com/2012/08/19/summet-time-part-2-abyss/" target="_blank">alexraczynski.wordpress.com</a>, <a href="http://daniel-jung.blogspot.com/2012/08/kick-ass-summer-trip.html" target="_blank">daniel-jung.blogspot.com</a></p>
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