French Climb Major New Route on Mt. Dickey

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Mt. Dickey (9,945 feet) from the northeast, showing the French expedition’s proposed routes. Route No. 3 is believed to show their planned line on the northeast arête; it is not yet known exactly what line they followed. No. 1 is roughly the line of Blood from the Stone (Easton-Steck, 2002); No. 2 is roughly the line of the Wine Bottle (Bonapace-Orgler, 1988); No. 4 is a proposed new line on Dickey’s north face. The 1974 route, repeated earlier this month by a French team, lies near the left skyline. Mt. Bradley’s north face is in the background. Photo courtesy of FFcam.fr.

Mt. Dickey (9,945 feet) from the northeast, showing the French expedition’s proposed routes. Route No. 3 is believed to show their planned line on the northeast arête; it is not yet known exactly what line they followed. No. 1 is roughly the line of Blood from the Stone (Easton-Steck, 2002); No. 2 is roughly the line of the Wine Bottle (Bonapace-Orgler, 1988); No. 4 is a proposed new line on Dickey’s north face. The 1974 route, repeated earlier this month by a French team, lies near the left skyline. Mt. Bradley’s north face is in the background. Photo courtesy of FFcam.fr.

Four French climbers have made the first ascent of the northeast arête of Mt. Dickey in Alaska. Mathieu Détrie, Mathieu Maynadier, Seb Ibanez, and Patrick Pessi took six days to climb the 5,250-foot route, which they graded ED (extremely difficult).

The French are part of a large expedition of young alpinists from the Groupe Excellence Alpinisme of the Federation of French Alpine Clubs. Three of the four climbers on Dickey were 23 or 24 years old; the fourth, Pessi, is one of the program’s mentors.

Previously this season, four other Frenchmen in the program repeated the 1974 Roberts-Rowell-Ward route on the southeast face of 9,545-foot Mt. Dickey, probably the third ascent of that legendary Alaskan climb. Meanwhile, four women on the expedition have repeated several challenging ice routes in the Ruth Gorge, including Ham and Eggs and Shaken, Not Stirred on the Moose’s Tooth.

More information and photos will be provided as soon as they are available.

Dates of Ascents: May 2008

Source:FFcam.fr, American Alpine Journal

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