Glowacz, Jasper Complete Murallón

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After three years of effort, Stefan Glowacz and Robert Jasper have completed their dream of a new route up the main North Face of Cerro Murallón, a daunting summit that rises more than 1000 meters above the Patagonian Ice Cap. In 2003, the two climbed the Northwest Pillar with Klaus Fengler. The following year, they returned to attempt the extremely steep North Face and climbed within 250 meters of the top before storms drove them down.

After three weeks of waiting out storms in an ice cave, Glowacz and Jasper completed the North Face in two days, summiting at 9 p.m. on November 13 and rappelling through the night. Their new route, Vom Winde Verweht (“Gone With the Wind”) required 27 pitches and was graded IX+ (5.13-) A2.

For more info and photos, visit www.robert-jasper.de (German) or http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/, which provided some of the details for this report.

Photo of the North Face of Cerro Murallón, with the 2004 line drawn, by Klaus Fengler, courtesy of www.robert-jasper.de.

Glowacz, Jasper Complete Murallón

Photo of the North Face of Cerro Murallón, with the 2004 line drawn, by Klaus Fengler, courtesy of www.robert-jasper.de.