Hard New Trad and Sport in USA
News Links: Matt Segal climbed a new 5.13+ R/X trad line in the Kloof Alcove in Eldorado Canyon, Colorado. After toproping the route successfully and testing the fall by throwing a loaded pack from the crux (see video), Segal led Smart Went Crazy, taking a couple of falls from the beginning of the V10/11 crux passage before he linked the whole climb. The route starts on Extendogap (5.12c R/X) and goes right onto face climbing, about 30 feet left of Segal’s 5.14a trad climb Iron Monkey. Read more and see photos at Segal’s blog.
Meanwhile, near St. George, Utah, Joe Kinder redpointed an ultra-steep Todd Perkins project at the Hurricave. Visitor Q required 80 feet of 5.14b power-endurance. See Kinder’s blog for details.
Dates of Ascents: March 2009
- Nine Dead from Avalanche on Mont Blanc
- Barking Mad: RRG’s Madness Cave in a Day
- Puigblanque Snags Second Ascent of Catxasa (5.15a)
- Pringle Makes FA of 5.14d in Nevada
- Climbing Launches iPad Edition