5/12/10 - Britain’s Hazel Findlay redpointed Air Sweden (5.13b R) at Indian Creek, Utah, possibly making the exciting route’s first female ascent. Air Sweden begins with the 5.12 finger crack of Swedin-Ringle at the Battle of the Bulge cliff and then continues past the anchor (traditionally not clipped) for a desperate series of arête slaps and heel hooks with sparse protection. Findlay top-roped the route over the course of a few days, and then sent the climb on her third lead try. “I fell slapping quite high in the slot on my second attempt, but it is a nice clean fall,” she said.

During the same trip to Indian Creek, Findlay flashed Ruby’s Café (5.13a). However, she said, “I struggled with getting used to some of the harder sizes because we don’t have many cracks in the U.K.”

During previous trips to North America, Findlay, 20, has redpointed Pyromania (5.13a/b trad) at the Needles in California and Going to California (5.13b trad) with its direct start at Squamish, B.C. She also onsighted Romantic Warrior (5.12b, 9 pitches) at the Needles, and has free-climbed long 5.12 routes in the Bugaboos in Canada.

Date of Ascent: April 2010

Sources: Hazel Findlay, Wildcountry.co.uk, Will Stanhope