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Hot Flashes News      
By Dougald MacDonald and the Climbing Magazine Team
Hot Flashes reports the world's most up-to-date climbing news. From alpine big walls to local bouldering comps Hot Flashes gives you the the most accurate report first.
  
 
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New Route to Ama Dablam's Summit
5/15/08 - An Italian-Spanish pair has climbed a new variation on the west face of 22,493-foot Ama Dablam, the striking peak in the Khumbu region of Nepal.
 
French Climb Major New Route on Mt. Dickey
5/13/08 - Four French climbers have made the first ascent of the northeast arête of Mt. Dickey in Alaska.
 
Hidden Alaskan Peak Gets First Ascent
5/13/08 - Ben Gilmore, Maxime Turgeon, and Freddie Wilkinson have completed the first ascent of the Bat’s Ears, an 11,044-foot peak that was possibly the highest unclimbed major summit in the Alaska Range.
 
French Team Repeats Alaskan Testpiece
5/09/08 - A quartet of French climbers has repeated the 1974 route on the southeast face of Mt. Dickey in the Alaska Range, likely the third ascent of this mile-high alpine climb.
 
The Haute Route in a Day!
5/05/08 - A pair of elite French skiers has completed the famed Haute Route from Chamonix to Zermatt in less than 24 hours.
 
Austrian Woman Climbs 11th 8,000'er
5/02/08 - Austrian Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner summited 8,167-meter Dhaulagiri in Nepal on May 1, giving her 11 of the 14 main 8,000-meter summits on Earth, more than any other woman. (New Photo Added - 5/15/08)
 
Swiss Duo Completes Much-Tried Nepalese Face
4/30/08 - Simon Anthamatten and Ueli Steck from Switzerland have completed the highly prized north face of Tengkangpoche in Nepal to its 21,283-foot summit, on their second attempt this season. (Updated - 5/15/08)
 
Kinder Creates Utah Testpiece
4/28/08 - Joe Kinder has completed Golden Direct (5.14c/d) at the Cathedral near St. George, Utah.
 
Yuji Hirayama Still Has the Power
4/24/08 - Japan’s Yuji Hirayama, one of the great all-around rock climbers of the past decade, has focused on bouldering at home this spring, with impressive results.
 
Colorado Headpoint Gets Four Repeats
4/23/08 - The trad-style/headpoint testpiece Must’a Been High (5.13c R), on the Rincon Wall in Eldorado Springs Canyon, Colorado, saw a record four ascents over a three-week period in late February, early March.
 
Woods Places Third in Bouldering World Cup
4/21/08 - Coloradan Daniel Woods finished third in the first bouldering World Cup of 2008, in Hall, Austria. The podium finish was Woods’ best result ever at a European competition.
 
Lamprecht's Hardest Problem: In His Own Words
4/20/08 - The superb all-arounder Toni Lamprecht has climbed his hardest boulder problem—and perhaps the hardest in Germany—with the first ascent of Assassin, Monkey and Man (ungraded) at Kochel in Bavaria.
 
AAC Gives Nearly $20K in Climbing Grants
4/18/08 - The American Alpine Club has announced the 2008 winners of its two major expedition grants: the Lyman Spitzer Cutting-Edge Award and the McNeill-Nott Award. Seven grants totaling $19,500 will help American climbers attempt new routes from Alaska to Pakistan.
 
Two Quick Ascents of The Fly
4/14/08 - The Fly, a short 5.14+ route or V14 boulder problem in Rumney, New Hampshire, has seen two quick repeats, including the second bouldering ascent and the second one-day ascent of the climb.
 
Graham Puts Up V15 in Cradle of Bouldering
4/11/08 - Dave Graham has completed a longstanding project at Fontainebleau, France, and graded it 8C (V15). (New Photo Added - 4/14/08)
 
Near-Winter New Route on Alberta's North Face
4/09/08 - Americans Vince Anderson and Steve House climbed a new route through the rock headwall atop Mt. Alberta’s 3,250-foot north face in late March—the first time this daunting Canadian Rockies wall has been ascended in full winter conditions.
 
Honnold Makes a High-Stakes Solo in Zion
4/08/08 - Some thought it was an April Fools joke. Who would, or could, free solo Zion’s Moonlight Buttress (V 5.12d; 1,200 feet)? No joke, it turns out, and the climber was Alex Honnold, 22, of Sacramento, California.
 
Big New Route in Alaska's Mendenhall Towers
4/08/08 - Ryan Johnson and Sam Magro, recipients of a 2008 Mugs Stump Award, have made the first ascent of the north face of the West Tower of the Mendenhall Towers (near Juneau, Alaska), via a beautiful 2,500-foot mixed route.
 
Climber Plans Olympic Protest atop World's Summits
4/08/08 - Italian mountaineer and artist Alberto Peruffo has unveiled a plan for a series of mountaintop protests of Chinese repression in Tibet.
 
Climber Helicopter Crashes in Pamir Mountains
3/31/08 - A Soviet era Mi-8 helicopter owned by the state carrier Tajik Air, which was transporting eleven climbers, crashed in the Pamir mountains, according to a statement issued by the Interior Minister.
 
Slovenian Woman Climbs 5.14c
3/27/08 - Natalija Gros has redpointed Histerija, an 8c+ (5.14c) route at Misja Pec in Slovenia.
 
Huge Canadian Faces Fall in Winter Conditions
3/26/08 - Two major Canadian Rockies walls have had significant ascents in winter conditions: one by a first winter ascent, and the other by a new route.
 
Ice Climbers Clean Up in Remote Rockies
3/26/08 - An all-star international team has reaped a rich bounty of new ice and mixed climbs in the Canadian Rockies during a nine-day trip to the remote Icefall Brook area.
 
Speed-Flying Descent of Aconcagua South Face
3/24/08 - François Bon has made a speed-flying descent of the south face of Aconcagua, one of the world’s great mountain walls.
 
 
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