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Urubko: New Route on Cho Oyu for 14th 8,000'er
5/15/09 - Kazakh climber Denis Urubko has summited 8,201-meter Cho Oyu by an alpine-style ascent of the difficult southeast face, a stylish finish to his quest to climb all 14 8,000-meter peaks. 5/06/09 - Dave Sharratt and Pat Goodman have recently completed some of North Carolina’s hardest new routes in a variety of styles: sport, trad, and headpoint. 5/04/09 - Americans David Gottlieb and Joe Puryear have completed the first ascent of Jobo Rinjang (6,778 meters) in Nepal, near Nangpa La on the border with Tibet. 5/01/09 - Joe Kinder has completed a link-up of two 5.14 routes at the Wailing Wall in southwestern Utah to create a 5.14d line called The Re-Up, the hardest route he has redpointed and one of the most difficult in the country. 5/01/09 - At an award ceremony in Chamonix, France, three climbs from 2008 were honoured with Piolets d’Or for their originality, commitment, and technical difficulty. 4/27/09 - The Slovakian Dodo Kopold has soloed the southeast side of 7,219-meter Annapurna South (Annapurna Dakshin) in a 40-hour continuous push. 4/21/09 - The American Alpine Club has announced $19,000 in grants to support American expeditions in 2009, from Baffin Island to Pakistan. 4/16/09 - The Index Town Walls of Washington feature some of the best concentrations of steep, clean granite cracks and face climbs in Western North America. 4/16/09 - In late March, Josh Hurst redpointed a mixed route in western Maine that could be as hard as M12. (UPDATED - 5/11/09) 4/15/09 - Chris Sharma is making quick work of many of China’s hardest sport climbs during the final stop of an Asian tour that included Japan and Korea. 4/15/09 - Good snow and consistent temperatures made for incredible ice climbing conditions near Cody, Wyoming this year. 4/14/09 - Danilo Pereyra of Argentina has become the first Latin American climber to send the grade of 9a or 5.14d. 4/10/09 - On March 8-15, 2009, the Norwegian Alpine Club invited nearly forty climbers from worldwide to come to Lofoten, Norway, for a come-as-you-are climbing meet. 4/10/09 - A crew of strong climbers based out of St. George, Utah, has been sending hard at the Wailing Wall. 4/08/09 - Bernd Zangerl has completed the second ascent of Dave Graham’s From Dirt Grows the Flowers (8C/V15) at Chronico, Switzerland, on March 17. 4/07/09 - Walter Bonatti, perhaps the premier alpinist of the 1950s and early 1960s, will be honored with the first Piolet d’Or for lifetime achievement. 4/06/09 - Jason Haas and Rob Pizem have free-climbed every pitch of West Side Story on 800-foot Cottontail tower in Utah’s Fisher Towers. (Updated - 5/14/09) 4/03/09 - Two North American teams have completed routes on the striking granite towers of the Piritas Valley of Argentina, a little-explored and remote drainage above the upper Rio Turbio, near the Argentina-Chile border. 4/03/09 - In the first round of the Climbing Grants Preservation program for 2009, the Access Fund awarded over $20,000 to support local climbing activism and conservation of the climbing environment. 3/30/09 - Rock climbers recently noticed canyon wrens nesting at a popular climbing site at Hueco Tanks State Park and Historic Site near El Paso, Texas. 3/27/09 - German climber Felix Berg has set two possible speed records on Africa’s Mount Kenya. 3/25/09 - Best known for his bouldering — he was national champion in 2008 — Paul Robinson has completed the second ascent of Psychedelic (5.14c/d), eight years after Dave Graham first climbed the route. 3/20/09 - Matt Segal climbed a new 5.13+ R/X trad line in the Kloof Alcove in Eldorado Canyon, Colorado. And, near St. George, Utah, Joe Kinder redpointed an ultra-steep Todd Perkins project at the Hurricave. 3/16/09 - 37-year-old Toni Lamprecht of Munich, Germany, has climbed a new limestone boulder problem at the cliff Altantiswand in Kochel, Germany, that he has graded 8C+, or roughly V16. 3/12/09 - Chris Sharma continues to work several 5.15 projects in Catalunya, Spain, and photographer Pete O’Donovan has posted a mini-album of photos from these attempts at 8a.nu. |
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