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Fitz Roy's Royal Flush Climbed Alpine-Style
2/15/08 - Americans Jimmy Haden and Mike Pennings have made the first alpine-style ascent of Royal Flush—and only the second complete ascent of the route to the summit of Fitz Roy. 2/14/08 - Switzerland’s Ueli Steck has chopped more than an hour off his own speed record for climbing the north face of the Eiger. 2/12/08 - New Hampsherites Dana “Mad Dog” Drummond and Freddie Wilkinson have done a superb three-day traverse of Aguja Guillaumet, Aguja Mermoz, and Fitz Roy by its North Pillar. 2/11/08 - Adam Ondra, the Czech wunderkind who just turned 15, celebrated his birthday and a short break from high school by climbing two 5.15a routes in a week. 2/07/08 - The massive limestone cliffs of Oman on the eastern tip of the Arabian Peninsula are hot this winter, with many new routes being established. 2/05/08 - James Pearson has climbed one of the “last great problems” of English gritstone, The Groove (E10 7b), at Cratcliffe. 2/04/08 - Edu Marín, one of Spain’s brightest young stars, has redpointed La Novena Enmienda (9a+/5.15a) at Santa Linya, his second 5.15 route. 2/01/08 - Every year, the American Alpine Club honors those who have advanced climbing’s frontier and made significant strides in protecting the planet’s most iconic and threatened mountain environments. 1/28/08 - Emily Harrington and Chris Sharma topped very strong fields at last weekend’s comp near Salt Lake City to be named adult national champions in lead climbing. 1/28/08 - Californian Dave Turner has reportedly completed a solo new route on the east face of Cerro Escudo, a colossal peak just to the west of the Torres del Paine in Chile. 1/26/08 - Rolando Garibotti and Colin Haley have completed the much-discussed—and occasionally attempted—Torre Traverse: the link-up of Aguja Standhardt, Punta Herron, Torre Egger, and Cerro Torre in a single alpine-style outing. 1/25/08 - Chattanoogan transplants Nathaniel Walker and Luke Laeser recently climbed 50 pitches at Tennessee’s T Wall in a day. 1/21/08 - Bean Bowers and Rolando Garibotti have climbed a much-eyed line on the “back side” of the North Pillar (aka Goretta Pillar) of Fitz Roy in Argentine Patagonia. 1/21/08 - Lisa Rands has climbed The Mandala (V12) in the Buttermilks near her home in Bishop, California. Rands first started trying the overhanging granite prow last season. 1/18/08 - Organizers of the Piolet d'Or, the best-known prize in international mountaineering, have scrubbed plans for the 2008 award ceremony after running out of time to organize a prize with new criteria. 1/17/08 - The recipients of the 2008 Mugs Stump Award were announced at the Ouray Ice Festival in mid-January, at Ouray, Colorado. 1/16/08 - Peter Doucette and Freddie Wilkinson have climbed the second major new route of the season on the left side of New Hampshire’s Cannon Cliff. 1/15/08 - Jeremy Samson and a gang of other climbers have completed the first free ascent of Newborn (29/5.13a, 14 pitches) at Yellowwood, a massive sandstone cliff in the Du Toits Kloof area, north of Cape Town. 1/15/08 - Jeff Mercier from France won the mixed-climbing comp at the 13th Ouray Ice Festival in southwestern Colorado. 1/11/08 - Sir Edmund Hillary, one of the first two men to climb the world’s highest peak, died January 11 in Auckland, New Zealand, his home city. 1/10/08 - Dan Corn and Jim Surette have skied the snow-covered granite slabs of Whitehorse Ledge in North Conway, New Hampshire, making two short rappels to bypass unskiable ice. 1/10/08 - Before the big meltdown this week, New Englanders snagged some fine first ascents. In New Hampshire’s Crawford Notch, Eric McCallister completed the first lead of Dial M for Murder (WI4+ M8) on Mt. Willard. 1/08/08 - Canadian Sean McColl snuck in an ascent of Goldfish Trombone at the Happy Boulders in California, as major storms pounded the Sierra. 1/04/08 - Colin Haley spent Christmas climbing the rarely summited Aguja Desmochada in Patagonia via a partial new route. 1/03/08 - Paul Robinson has made the second ascent of Terremer (V15), the hardest boulder problem at Hueco Tanks, Texas. |
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