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Turgeon Solos Unclimbed Peak in Pakistan
10/08/07 - Canadian Maxime Turgeon, whose partner was injured during an acclimatization climb, forged ahead all alone on Farol East, making the first ascent of the 6,350-meter peak in the Charakusa Valley of Pakistan. 10/06/07 - The Huber brothers, Alex and Thomas, have climbed the Nose of El Capitan in 2 hours 48 minutes 35 seconds, breaking the speed record for Yosemite Valley’s iconic big-wall climb by a mere 20 seconds. 10/03/07 - After abandoning their dreams of an alpine-style new route on the North Face of K2 because of continuing severe weather, Serguey Samoilov and Denis Urubko succeeded on the rarely climbed North Ridge of the 28,250-foot peak on October 2. 10/02/07 - Paul Robinson had an extraordinary day of bouldering on the slopes of Mt. Evans in Colorado last week, climbing all of the problems on the heavily stacked Dali Boulder in a single afternoon. 9/27/07 - Polish climbers David Kashlikowski and Eliza Kubarska have completed an all-free route on the 4,900-foot sea cliff of the Thumbnail at the southern tip of Greenland. 9/26/07 - Alex Honnold has free-soloed Astroman (5.11c, 10 pitches) and the Rostrum (5.11c, 8 pitches) in Yosemite Valley in a single day. 9/24/07 - The weeklong world championship of climbing in Aviles, Spain, has concluded, crowning new champions in lead climbing, bouldering, and speed. 9/20/07 - Rob Pizem has redpointed a three-pitch line at around 12,000 feet (3,658m) on Mt. Evans in Colorado with a crux second pitch that goes at 5.13c/d. 9/19/07 - The Anglo-Canadian team of Luisa Giles, Sarah Hart, and Jacqueline Hudson has established a 3,000-foot free route on a 17,000-foot rock spire near the base of Latok III in Pakistan. 9/19/07 - Robert Hicks Bates, a pioneer of American climbing in the Yukon and the Himalaya, died on September 13 at age 96. 9/18/07 - On September 14–16, 2007 at the Royal Gorge Bridge near Canon City, Colorado speed demons Brian Gallant, Aaron Simmons climbed the Clean Dan Memorial (5.11b) five times over three days in the Go Fast Games. The event also features Base Jumping off the bridge. 9/18/07 - An American expedition completed four new routes in the Miyar Valley of India’s Himachel Pradesh mountains, climbing all free and bagging three virgin summits. 9/18/07 - Emily Harrington and Daniel Woods, the only Americans competing at the 21st Rock Master in Arco, Italy, each finished fifth in their events at the world’s most prestigious invitation competition. 9/06/07 - American Ethan Pringle has climbed Realization (5.15a, aka Biographie) at Ceüse, France, making the fifth ascent of the landmark climb. 9/04/07 - Jonny Copp and Micah Dash made a speedy, alpine-style first ascent of the 19,200-foot “Shafat Fortress” in Kashmir, India. 8/31/07 - British couple John and Anne Arran had a very successful expedition to the Nangma Valley in Pakistan, making almost entirely free ascents of two very hard and continuous big-wall routes. 8/31/07 - A Canadian expedition, foiled by poor conditions on its primary objective, managed a probable new route on Peak 5,750m. 8/30/07 - Two of Colorado’s hardest boulder problems have each gotten a third ascent. Paul Robinson made the third ascent of Jade (V15) in Rocky Mountain National Park, after six days of work on the line. 8/28/07 - American climbers landed four podium positions at the World Youth Championships in Ecuador, more than holding their own with superstars like Charlotte Durif of France and Adam Ondra of the Czech Republic. 8/27/07 - Scotland’s Dave MacLeod has completed “the most dangerous lead I’ve ever done,” a new route at Hell’s Lum crag in the Cairngorm mountains. 8/24/07 - A small Belgian-Polish team completed three free or mostly free routes on huge walls in the Charakusa Valley of Pakistan, near the base of massive K7 and K7 West. 8/23/07 - Canadian Sonnie Trotter has redpointed The Path (5.14 R) at the Back of the Lake area in Lake Louise, Alberta. 8/22/07 - Canadian Matt Maddaloni has completed likely the biggest link-up yet in the Bugaboos of British Columbia: five multipitch routes to five different summits, all free and all solo. 8/21/07 - A Russian expedition has completed the 8,500-foot-high West Face of K2 after more than 10 weeks of effort. 8/17/07 - Is it newsworthy to climb 60 routes graded 5.10 and easier? If the routes are the 60 climbs in the classic British book Hard Rock and they’re climbed in just five weeks during one of the rainiest U.K summers in memory, it’s a remarkable achievement. |
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