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Major Black Canyon Link-Up
5/30/06 - Josh Wharton has linked two of the Black Canyon’s premier free climbs, leading every pitch of the Free Nose (VI 5.12) on North Chasm View Wall and Tague Your Time (V+ 5.12) on South Chasm View Wall in a single day. 5/25/06 - During an Alaskan season in which most climbers have so far come up short, two parties have climbed big new routes in the Ruth Gorge. 5/23/06 - Colorado’s Emily Harrington, 20, finished fifth in a truncated World Cup lead-climbing comp in Dresden, Germany. 5/23/06 - Ethan Pringle redpointed Just Do It (5.14b/c) at Smith Rock, Oregon, on May 20. 5/19/06 - The amazing Ammon McNeely chalked up his 11th first one-day ascent on El Capitan, climbing Native Son in 23 hours 53 minutes with frequent speed partner Ivo Ninov. 5/19/06 - The traditional late-May peak for summit bids is only now upon us, and 29,029-foot Mt. Everest has already seen a full season’s worth of highjinks. 5/17/06 - Austrian Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner reached the summit of 28,169-foot Kanchenjunga on Sunday, along with four other climbers, adding a ninth 8,000-meter peak to her list of climbs—more than any other woman in history. 5/17/06 - Halfway through the World Cup bouldering season, the men’s competition has become a real dogfight while the women’s crown appears to be headed toward Olga Bibik of Russia. 5/11/06 - Authorities have found the bodies of seven climbers out of 11 that have been missing since Tuesday near the top of Mt. Elbrus, the highest peak in Europe. 5/10/06 - If you thought the late, lamented Phoenix Bouldering Contest was a big deal, check out the 3rd annual Melloblocco, which went off last weekend high in northern Italy’s Val di Mello. 5/05/06 - Austrian mountaineer Christian Stangl has claimed a new speed record for climbing 18,506-foot Mt. Elbrus, Europe’s highest peak. 5/4/06 - An international team has repeated Rainbow Jambaia (31 pitches, 5.13), a bold big-wall free climb beside remote Angel Falls in Venezuela. 5/02/06 - A seriously blown finger tendon will shut down most climbers for weeks, if not months. Not Steve House. 5/02/06 -Two of Indian Creek’s hardest crack climbs got their second ascents in April. Canadian Sonnie Trotter dispatched Learning to Fly on his second try and From Switzerland with Love after “five or six tries.” 5/01/06 - The new museum of American mountaineering, slated to open in Golden, Colorado, in the winter of 2007-08, will be named for pioneering mountain photographer and cartographer Bradford Washburn. 4/26/06 - Mount Rainier lead climbing ranger Charlie Borgh, 26, was killed in an avalanche while descending Mount Deltaform in British Columbia last week. 4/19/06 - Rick Hunt and Hans Johnstone skied the East Ridge of the Grand Teton on March 24 on their second attempt. 4/18/06 - Lisa Rands has headpointed the English gritstone classic Gaia (E8 6c), a bold route immortalized in the film Hard Grit. 4/18/06 - Josune Bereziartu has onsighted Hidrofobia (5.14a) at Montsant, Spain. The Basque woman, who has redpointed as hard as 5.14d, had previously onsighted three 5.13d routes. 4/17/06 - Daniel Woods repeated two V14 problems in Bishop, California, during a spring-break trip to the Buttermilks: The Swarm and Mandalion, the sit start to Mandala. 4/16/06 - Four teams of climbers have won the American Alpine Club’s Lyman Spitzer Climbing Grants for cutting-edge climbing, funding expeditions from Alaska to Uzbekistan. 4/13/06 - Lisa Rands made quick work of two classic John Bachar highballs in Joshua Tree, sending So High and Planet X with no toprope rehearsal. 4/10/06 - Several British websites are reporting that Scottish climber Dave MacLeod has completed the direct finish to Requiem at Dumbarton Rock in Scotland, a longstanding project that MacLeod expected to go at hard 5.14 with huge runouts. 4/07/06 - Harald Berger and Albert Leichtfried, along with photographer Hermann Erber, have pioneered a wildly overhanging ice route at over 4,500 meters in Chile. 4/06/06 - Steve House, the 2006 winner, along with Vince Anderson, of the prestigious Golden Piton from Climbing and the lesser-known Piolet d’ Or for their alpine-style ascent of the Rupal Face on Nanaga Parbat, seriously injured... |
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