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Women's Team Pioneers Pakistani Free Route
9/19/07 - The Anglo-Canadian team of Luisa Giles, Sarah Hart, and Jacqueline Hudson has established a 3,000-foot free route on a 17,000-foot rock spire near the base of Latok III in Pakistan. 9/19/07 - Robert Hicks Bates, a pioneer of American climbing in the Yukon and the Himalaya, died on September 13 at age 96. 9/18/07 - On September 14–16, 2007 at the Royal Gorge Bridge near Canon City, Colorado speed demons Brian Gallant, Aaron Simmons climbed the Clean Dan Memorial (5.11b) five times over three days in the Go Fast Games. The event also features Base Jumping off the bridge. 9/18/07 - An American expedition completed four new routes in the Miyar Valley of India’s Himachel Pradesh mountains, climbing all free and bagging three virgin summits. 9/18/07 - Emily Harrington and Daniel Woods, the only Americans competing at the 21st Rock Master in Arco, Italy, each finished fifth in their events at the world’s most prestigious invitation competition. 9/06/07 - American Ethan Pringle has climbed Realization (5.15a, aka Biographie) at Ceüse, France, making the fifth ascent of the landmark climb. 9/04/07 - Jonny Copp and Micah Dash made a speedy, alpine-style first ascent of the 19,200-foot “Shafat Fortress” in Kashmir, India. 8/31/07 - British couple John and Anne Arran had a very successful expedition to the Nangma Valley in Pakistan, making almost entirely free ascents of two very hard and continuous big-wall routes. 8/31/07 - A Canadian expedition, foiled by poor conditions on its primary objective, managed a probable new route on Peak 5,750m. 8/30/07 - Two of Colorado’s hardest boulder problems have each gotten a third ascent. Paul Robinson made the third ascent of Jade (V15) in Rocky Mountain National Park, after six days of work on the line. 8/28/07 - American climbers landed four podium positions at the World Youth Championships in Ecuador, more than holding their own with superstars like Charlotte Durif of France and Adam Ondra of the Czech Republic. 8/27/07 - Scotland’s Dave MacLeod has completed “the most dangerous lead I’ve ever done,” a new route at Hell’s Lum crag in the Cairngorm mountains. 8/24/07 - A small Belgian-Polish team completed three free or mostly free routes on huge walls in the Charakusa Valley of Pakistan, near the base of massive K7 and K7 West. 8/23/07 - Canadian Sonnie Trotter has redpointed The Path (5.14 R) at the Back of the Lake area in Lake Louise, Alberta. 8/22/07 - Canadian Matt Maddaloni has completed likely the biggest link-up yet in the Bugaboos of British Columbia: five multipitch routes to five different summits, all free and all solo. 8/21/07 - A Russian expedition has completed the 8,500-foot-high West Face of K2 after more than 10 weeks of effort. 8/17/07 - Is it newsworthy to climb 60 routes graded 5.10 and easier? If the routes are the 60 climbs in the classic British book Hard Rock and they’re climbed in just five weeks during one of the rainiest U.K summers in memory, it’s a remarkable achievement. 8/14/07 - Peter Absolon, 47, was killed by rock fall in the Wind River Range on August 11, apparently the victim of a rock thrown from above by a hiker. 8/13/07 - Paul Cordy and Matt Maddaloni have completed an extended version of the “Triple Crown” of long, hard free climbing at Squamish, British Columbia. 8/13/07 - Californian Dave Turner and Micah Retz have climbed a new route on the North Face of Taulliraju, the 5,830-meter “ice flower” of the Cordillera Blanca in Peru. 8/10/07 - Alexander Huber has redpointed an enormous 5.14 overhang, once called the “biggest roof on earth,” starting five pitches up the 1,500-foot north face of Cima Ovest in the Dolomites’ famous Tre Cime. 8/08/07 - Sylvain “Sly” Masse has redpointed La Zébrée, the 5.14a crack climb at Mont King in Québec. 8/08/07 - Tyler Landman has made the second ascent of Jade (V15), a boulder problem in Rocky Mountain National Park that had bouted the best for years before it was completed earlier this year by Daniel Woods. 8/07/07 - Adam Ondra, the 14-year-old Czech phenom best known for his 5.14d redpoints, has repeated the legendary Alpine testpiece Silbergeier (5.14a, 6 pitches) and free-climbed Zub za Zub (5.14a, 5 pitches) on the limestone walls of the Rätikon in Switzerland. 8/04/07 - Scotland’s Dave MacLeod has completed a legendary unfinished project in Glen Nevis, near the base of the highest peak in Great Britain. |
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