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Hardest Trad Pitch in World?
4/10/06 - Several British websites are reporting that Scottish climber Dave MacLeod has completed the direct finish to Requiem at Dumbarton Rock in Scotland, a longstanding project that MacLeod expected to go at hard 5.14 with huge runouts. 4/07/06 - Harald Berger and Albert Leichtfried, along with photographer Hermann Erber, have pioneered a wildly overhanging ice route at over 4,500 meters in Chile. 4/06/06 - Steve House, the 2006 winner, along with Vince Anderson, of the prestigious Golden Piton from Climbing and the lesser-known Piolet d’ Or for their alpine-style ascent of the Rupal Face on Nanaga Parbat, seriously injured... 4/05/06 - Jon Walsh and Caroline Ware have climbed a brand-new thin-ice testpiece to the left of the 1987 thin-ice testpiece Riptide (225m, WI 7 R) in the Canadian Rockies. 4/04/06 - An Italian team completed the north face of 12,156-foot San Lorenzo, Patagonia’s second-highest peak, in late March. 4/04/06 - Legendary ski mountaineer and Teton climbing guide Doug Coombs was killed yesterday near La Grave, France, along with American Chad VanderHam. 4/03/06 - Dave Graham has flashed two 5.14a routes in a little over a week. According to his scorecard on www.8a.nu, Graham flashed Half Baked and Half Broken at the Wailing Wall, near St. George, Utah, on April 2. 3/31/06 - The first America’s Cup of ski mountaineering sent racers up and down Jackson Hole resort last weekend in a grueling test of fitness and skiing ability. 3/29/06 - Daniel Woods and Lizzy Asher won the third and final stop of the Mammut Bouldering Championships, March 24-25 at the New Jersey Rock Gym. 3/22/06 - A solo first winter ascent of Devil’s Thumb in southeastern Alaska was followed by a hairy helicopter rescue after a crevasse fall during the descent. 3/21/06 - Sean Isaac and Marc Piche made the first winter ascent of Pigeon Spire in the Bugaboos via its north face. 3/21/06 - The 2005 runners-up in World Cup bouldering came out firing on opening day this season, as France’s Jérôme Meyer and Russia’s Olga Bibik dominated the year’s first comp in Birmingham, England. 3/17/06 - Jon Walsh and Caroline Ware have used the long winter days of March for some big ice linkups in western Canada. 3/16/06 - Curious about where top climbers are headed this summer? Here’s a short list of interesting expeditions planned by well-known North American and British alpinists. 3/10/06 - Crystal Davis-Robbins and Jon Walsh climbed the Casarotto Route on Fitz Roy in Patagonia, with Davis-Robbins making the probable first female ascent of the classic pillar. 3/07/06 - Harald Berger of Austria and Ines Papert of Germany are the 2006 Ice Climbing World Cup champions. Berger won the final competition in Hemsedal, Norway, last weekend to seal the victory for the season. 3/07/06 - Daniel Woods and Emily Harrington won the Sterling Rope/USA Climbing Adult National Championship on March 4, giving the two Coloradans the top spots on the 2006 U.S. Adult Difficulty Team. 3/02/06 - Americans Tommy Caldwell, Topher Donahue and Erik Roed have free-climbed Linea di Eleganza on Fitz Roy at 5.12+, onsighting the second ascent of the Patagonian route in a single, team-free push. 3/01/06 - Robert Jasper and Markus Stofer have created a 12-pitch mixed route behind the Staubbachwasserfall in Switzerland, one of the highest waterfalls in the Alps. 2/28/06 - Bean Bowers and Josh Wharton free-climbed the Casarotto Route on Fitz Roy in Argentinean Patagonia in 16 hours from the bergschrund to the summit. 2/27/06 - Scott Muir has made the second ascent of Jedi Mind Tricks in Colorado, calling it “by far the hardest route I have ever completed.” 2/24/06 - American Whit Magro soloed the 700-meter water-ice climb Losar (WI5) in the Khumbu region of Nepal in early February. 2/22/06 - Hundreds of boulderers jammed The Spot and Boulder Rock Club in Boulder, Colorado, last weekend as the ABS Adult and Youth Bouldering Nationals went down. 2/17/06 - A new route and a couple of superb repeats have been accomplished in Patagonia in the past few weeks. Alexander Huber and Stephan Siegrist climbed a 25-pitch new route up the south face of Aguja Desmochada, reaching the summit at 10 a.m. after a single bivy 800 feet below the top. 2/16/06 - The American Alpine Club honored Henry Barber with its Robert and Miriam Underhill Award, the nation’s highest honor for climbing achievement, at the club’s annual meeting and Mountain Fest in Attitash, New Hampshire. |
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