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Massive Squamish Link-Up
8/13/07 - Paul Cordy and Matt Maddaloni have completed an extended version of the “Triple Crown” of long, hard free climbing at Squamish, British Columbia. 8/13/07 - Californian Dave Turner and Micah Retz have climbed a new route on the North Face of Taulliraju, the 5,830-meter “ice flower” of the Cordillera Blanca in Peru. 8/10/07 - Alexander Huber has redpointed an enormous 5.14 overhang, once called the “biggest roof on earth,” starting five pitches up the 1,500-foot north face of Cima Ovest in the Dolomites’ famous Tre Cime. 8/08/07 - Sylvain “Sly” Masse has redpointed La Zébrée, the 5.14a crack climb at Mont King in Québec. 8/08/07 - Tyler Landman has made the second ascent of Jade (V15), a boulder problem in Rocky Mountain National Park that had bouted the best for years before it was completed earlier this year by Daniel Woods. 8/07/07 - Adam Ondra, the 14-year-old Czech phenom best known for his 5.14d redpoints, has repeated the legendary Alpine testpiece Silbergeier (5.14a, 6 pitches) and free-climbed Zub za Zub (5.14a, 5 pitches) on the limestone walls of the Rätikon in Switzerland. 8/04/07 - Scotland’s Dave MacLeod has completed a legendary unfinished project in Glen Nevis, near the base of the highest peak in Great Britain. 8/03/07 - A highly experienced American team bagged the first ascent of a huge spire in Pakistan but came up short on their main objective: the North Ridge of Latok I. 8/02/07 - A Russian team has squeezed another line on Shipton Spire’s Southeast Face in Pakistan—a 1,300-meter granite wall that, remarkably, is getting almost as crowded as El Capitan’s Southeast Face. 7/31/07 - Dave Graham has redpointed Realization (5.15a) at Ceüse, France, completing the landmark route’s fourth ascent. Graham had been attempting the route periodically ever since he belayed Chris Sharma on the first ascent in 2001, and had spent several weeks at the cliff this summer hoping to finish it off. 7/27/07 - High flyers from America and Germany broke the world dyno record twice in just over a week at contests in Europe. 7/27/07 - Slovenian Pavle Kozjek and partner Grega Kresal have made the first ascent of the East Face of 5,410-meter Puscantrupa Este—and probably the second ascent of the peak—in Peru’s Cordillera Huayhuash. 7/25/07 - Two Russian teams have completed big-wall routes on the enormous Northwest Face of Great Trango Tower in Pakistan. A four-man team climbed a new line on the right side of the 2,000-meter wall in six days, free climbing about three-quarters of the route. 7/25/07 - Daniele Bernasconi and Karl Unterkircher summited 8,035-meter Gasherbrum II on July 20, completing a new route up a prominent 3,000-meter spur on the peak’s unclimbed North Face. 7/23/07 - Valentia Island lies off the southwest corner of Ireland, off the famed Ring of Kerry and forming the southern arm of Dingle Bay. Fogher cliffs lie at the northern side of Valentia near where the first trans-Atlantic cable brought Morse messages to Newfoundland, 150 years ago. 7/15/07 - Michael Reardon, 36, the accomplished free soloist based out of Oak Park, California, went missing off the southwestern coast of Ireland around 5 p.m. Friday. 7/06/07 - Colin Haley and Mark Westman climbed the Denali Diamond route on Mt. McKinley’s southwest face in less than 48 hours, from the bergschrund to the summit, making the probable fifth ascent of one of Alaska’s most beautiful climbs. 7/04/07 - Himalayan veterans Yannick Graziani and Christian Trommsdorff from France have climbed a difficult route in pure alpine style to make the first ascent of 7,350-meter Pumari Chhish South. 6/26/07 - A Swiss trio has made the first ascent of the striking Northeast Face of 20,840-foot Arwa Tower in India’s Garhwal Himalaya. 6/25/07 - Colorado’s Emily Harrington proved once again that she is one of the world’s best competition sport climbers, finishing third in a World Cup in Zürich, Switzerland. 6/21/07 - Daniel Woods bagged the first ascent of a much-coveted Rocky Mountain National park super-project, Jade (V15, and formerly known as the Green 45). 6/20/07 - When the Slovenian alpinist Miha Valic topped all 82 4,000-meter Alps peaks in 102 days, beginning on December 27, 2006, and ending April 7, he completed a major feat, one that has, in his words, “been a thorn in the European alpinists' flesh for a while.” 6/20/07 - On Malaysia's high point, Mount Kinabalu (13,435 feet), lurks a climber's paradise, a granite plateau beetling with unclimbed aiguilles and rent by a 2,000-foot-deep canyon. 6/20/07 - Martin Gutmannn and Lucas Iten, both from Switzerland, and the Coloradoan Jack Sasser took a successful spring trip to Alaska’s Pika Glacier, climbing three first ascents and repeating two routes, without placing any bolts or pitons. 6/12/07 - The English phenom Tyler Landman scored the second ascent of one of Colorado’s hardest boulder problems, Ode to the Modern Man (V15), on May 26. |
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