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Rich Simpson Does Action Directe
10/13/05 - Britain’s Rich Simpson, 22, has repeated Action Directe (5.14d) in Germany’s Frankenjura region. 10/12/05 - Emily Harrington, runner-up at this summer’s sport-climbing World Championship, has redpointed Zulu (5.14a) at Rifle, Colorado. 10/06/05 - Josune Bereziartu has onsighted Fuente de Energia (8b/5.13d) at the Spanish crag Vadiello. 10/05/05 - Mauro “Bubu” Bole and Mario Cortese have completed a 38-pitch free climb on the North Face of the Grandes Jorasses. 10/04/05 - Bernd Zangerl has climbed a boulder problem high in the Austrian mountains that he says is his hardest yet. 10/03/05 - Sandrine Levet of France won the World Cup bouldering season title for the fifth time in six years, while Kilian Fischhuber of Austria came from behind to snag the season title at the fourth and final comp in Firminy, France. 9/29/05 - Didier Berthod has returned to Greenspit, the 5.14a roof crack he climbed two years ago in Italy, and completed a traditional redpoint, placing gear as he climbed. 9/28/05 - Chris Sharma has redpointed a new sport route among the giant granite boulders below The Chief in Squamish, B.C., and says it’s “probably 14c or 14d. 9/27/05 - Mike Anderson and Rob Pizem have freed Golden Years, an eight-pitch 5.12+ on Shuntavi Butte in the Kolob area of Zion National Park. 9/23/05 - Bruce Miller and Chris Weidner of Boulder, Colorado, capped a superb visit to the Bugaboos with a new route on giant North Howser Tower, which they later repeated all-free in a day. 9/20/05 - Russian climbers Pavel Shabalin and Ilyas Tukhvatullin have made the first alpine-style ascent of the North Face of Khan Tengri as a two-man team. 9/19/05 - Leo Houlding narrowly missed becoming the first person to lead every pitch of an El Cap free route onsight, taking just one fall on Free Rider. 9/16/05 - Belgian Nicolas Favresse has free-climbed a major new route in Yosemite Valley without any new fixed protection. Favresse, 25, worked for a month on L’Appât (VI 5.13a), the first free route up a big wall about 200 feet right of Yosemite Falls. 9/14/05 - Mike Layton and Erik Wolfe made the first ascent of the 2,500-foot East Face of Southeast Mox Peak in North Cascades National Park, considered one of the “last great problems” of the range. 9/13/05 - Steve House has sent an email from Pakistan describing his and Vince Anderson’s alpine-style ascent of the central pillar on the Rupal Face of Nanga Parbat, sure to go down as one of the great climbs in modern Himalayan history. 9/9/05 - Slovaks Dodo Kopold and Gabo Čmárik have climbed an enormous new rock route on the southwest side of 20,460-foot Great Trango Tower in Pakistan. 9/9/05 - Vince Anderson and Steve House have climbed a direct new route on the Rupal Face of 26,657-foot Nanga Parbat in Pakistan, according to www.grivelnorthamerica.com. 9/7/05 - Three U.S. climbers made a 12-hour ascent of the Eternal Flame route on Trango (“Nameless”) Tower in Pakistan, but were kept from the true summit by a fierce snowstorm. 9/7/05 - A team of six British climbers put up three big routes on the granite spires of the Karavashin area of Kyrgyzstan, infamous as the place where Americans Tommy Caldwell, John Dickey, Beth Rodden and Jason Smith were kidnapped by militants in 2000. 9/6/05 - Angela Eiter of Austria and Ramón Julián (Ramonet) Puigblanque of Spain won the 19th Rock Master competition in Arco, Italy, the most prestigious annual competition in the world. 9/1/05 - Several companies have begun guiding climbers up 16,023-foot Carstensz Pyramid in Indonesia, one of the Seven Summits, three years after the mountain was closed to climbing. 8/29/05 - Forty-three members of the U.S. Youth Climbing Team journeyed to Beijing, China, to compete on a huge outdoor wall in the Youth World Championship, Aug. 25-28. 8/25/05 - A small international team has climbed a major new route on what’s believed to be Trango II (20,758 feet), a peak adjacent to Nameless Tower in Pakistan. 8/23/05 - Reinhold Messner has identified a body found near the base of the Diamir face of Nanga Parbat in Pakistan as that of his brother, Günther, based on the boots and jacket with the body. 8/23/05 - Shawn Diamond, the 22-year-old who described his long battle with Crohn’s disease in Climbing 242, has redpointed Biographie (8c+/5.14c) at Ceüse, France. |
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