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New Route in Trango Towers
8/25/05 - A small international team has climbed a major new route on what’s believed to be Trango II (20,758 feet), a peak adjacent to Nameless Tower in Pakistan. 8/23/05 - Reinhold Messner has identified a body found near the base of the Diamir face of Nanga Parbat in Pakistan as that of his brother, Günther, based on the boots and jacket with the body. 8/23/05 - Shawn Diamond, the 22-year-old who described his long battle with Crohn’s disease in Climbing 242, has redpointed Biographie (8c+/5.14c) at Ceüse, France. 8/17/05 - In early August Beth Rodden-Caldwell repointed Lumpy Ridge’s Anaconda (5.13b/c), her second hardest crack climb to date. 8/17/05 - Chris Sharma easily won the men’s elite competition at the Mammut Sendfest in Salt Lake City, while Tomoko Ogawa of Japan won a closely fought battle among the women. 8/16/05 - Tomás Mrázek, the two-time World Champion of sport climbing from the Czech Republic, has onsighted the route Patra Negra (5.14b) at Rodellar in northern Spain. 8/12/05 - Tomaz Humar was plucked from his perch on the Rupal Face of Nanga Parbat by a Pakistani Army helicopter in a dramatic and rare instance of modern “short-haul” rescue at high altitude. 8/09/05 - Two Pakistani helicopters attempted to rescue Tomaz Humar from partway up the Rupal Face of Nanga Parbat today, but clouds prevented the choppers from plucking the Slovenian alpinist from the wall or delivering supplies to him. 8/09/05 - Hans Florine has broken the record for speed-soloing The Nose on El Capitan, climbing Yosemite’s centerpiece route in 11 hours 41 minutes. 8/08/05 - The great Slovenian alpinist Tomaz Humar is pinned on a tiny snow ledge about one-third of the way up the Rupal Face on 26,657-foot Nanga Parbat, and Humar’s support team has called for a helicopter rescue. 8/05/05 - Dave Turner completed a rare solo new route on El Capitan in June. Block Party (VI 5.9 A4) took Turner 18 days on the wall and three days of fixing. 8/4/05 - Britons Paul Schweizer and Simon Yates climbed a new route on the 6,000-foot West Face of Mount Alverstone in the St. Elias Range this spring. 8/03/05 - Chad Kellogg and Joe Puryear bagged a new route on Kichatna Spire in a single-push climb in mid-July, making only the eighth ascent of the Alaskan peak. 7/29/05 - Ammon McNeely, Ivo Ninov and Kevin Jaramillo made the first one-day ascent of the hard-aid classic Zenyatta Mondatta at the end of June. 7/27/05 - The Kazakh duo of Denis Urubko and Serguey Samoilov has climbed a new route alpine-style on the Southwest Face of 26,401-foot Broad Peak in Pakistan. 7/26/05 - American Vadim Vinokur missed a medal at the World Games 2005 by just two handholds, finishing fourth in the quadrennial “alternative Olympics.” 7/23/05 - Shawn Diamond, who wrote about his longtime battle with Crohn’s disease in the current issue of Climbing (No. 242), has redpointed the hardest route of his life, Hasta La Vista (5.14c) at Mount Charleston in Nevada. 7/22/05 - A four-man team has finished off a 20-year-old Jeff Lowe climb in the Cordillera Huayhuash of Peru—a route Lowe called the most difficult solo ice climb of his distinguished career. 7/20/05 - A pair of Korean climbers has completed the first traverse of 26,660-foot Nanga Parbat in Pakistan since the Messner brothers’ infamous climb in 1970. 7/15/05 - The Canadian-American team of David Dornian and Joe Josephson seized short breaks from a lousy weather spell in the Mount Logan massif to establish two big Yukon routes in single-push style. 7/15/05 - Brian McMahon and Josh Wharton, stymied by severe rock fall in their bid to climb the North Face of Huascaran Norte, salvaged a trip to Peru with four lightning-fast free climbs in a little over a week on the beautiful granite of La Esfinge (The Sphinx, 17,470 feet). 7/14/05 - Frenchman Alex Chabot seems to be back in form: After making the podium only once so far this season, Chabot placed third in the World Championships two weeks ago and this week won a World Cup in Chamonix, France, the first victory since last October for the three-time World Cup champion. 7/13/05 - Twenty-nine-year-old Ueli Steck from Switzerland exported the “enchainment” concept from the Alps to the Himalaya this spring, attempting to solo three difficult north faces in the Everest region. 7/12/05 - Coloradans Ryan Nelson and Jared Ogden free-climbed the East Face of Mount Barrille in the Ruth Gorge of Alaska, via the classic Cobra Pillar. 7/11/05 - Steve House and Marko Prezelj made good work of a three-week trip to Peru, with a new route on 18,770-foot Cayesh and a quick repeat on 19,127-foot Taulliraju. |
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