Climbing
Hot Flashes News Secor Recovering From Severe Fall
5/04/05 - Author and mountaineer R.J. Secor was severely injured in mid-April when he lost control of a glissade on Mount San Antonio (aka Mount Baldy) in Southern California’s San Gabriel Mountains.
 
Vinokur Fifth in Belgium
5/02/05 - Could this be Vadim Vinokur’s year? Brooklyn's finest climber pulled off the best World Cup of his career, taking fifth in Flanders, Belgium, on April 30.
 
Three Expeditions Win Large Grants
5/02/05 - Three teams of young climbers have won Lyman Spitzer Climbing Grants from the American Alpine Club totaling $12,000, plus gear from MSR, Therm-a-Rest and Platypus.
 
Mount Cleveland in Winter
4/29/05 - After years of attempts, two brothers succeeded on the probable first winter ascent of Glacier National Park’s highest peak.
 
Another V16 for Koyamada?
4/28/05 - The Japanese Dai Koyamada has established another long boulder problem that may be harder than V15, according to www.8a.nu.
 
Hallucinogen in a Day
4/27/05 - Alan Doak and Stefan Griebel completed a one-day ascent of the Hallucinogen Wall (VI 5.10 A3+), Colorado’s premier aid route, on April 23.
 
Crespi, Eiter Win 1st World Cup
4/25/05 - Italian Flavio Crespi won the first lead-climbing World Cup of 2005, in Veliko Tarnovo, Bulgaria.
 
31 Pitches, 5.13, No Bolts for Pro
4/25/05 - A multinational team has free-climbed the El Capitan-sized wall to the left of Angel Falls in Venezuela, using no bolts for protection.
 
New Route on Andromeda
4/22/05 - The budding partnership of Valeri Babanov and Raphael Slawinski has completed yet another winter-conditions route on a classic face of the Canadian Rockies.
 
1.4 Miles of Climbing
4/20/05 - A trio of desert adventurers has established one of the longest girdle traverses in North America: the 1.4-mile traverse of the Great White Wall in Utah.
 
Andrada Ticks Second Possible 5.15
4/18/05 - Maximizing the last days of spring before hot weather settles on northern Spain, Dani Andrada has redpointed his second possible 5.15 in a single month.
 
Graham Ticks Classic 5.14+
4/15/05 - Turning his attention from bouldering to routes as the weather warms, Dave Graham, our man in Europe, has done a pair of desperate climbs, including the classic Bain de Sang (9a/5.14d).
 
Zangerl Repeats Two Hueco V14s
4/13/05 - Austrian Bernd Zangerl spent a month at Hueco Tanks this winter and repeated two of the park’s V14 boulder problems.
 
French Dominate Moscow Comp
4/11/05 - Sandrine Levet won her second World Cup in a row while Jérôme Meyer narrowly won the men’s crown for a French sweep of the Moscow Bouldering World Cup.
 
Nicole Adds Two Hueco Testpieces
4/07/05 - The great Swiss boulderer Fred Nicole, who has established most of the cutting-edge problems at Hueco Tanks, completed two more desperates in a late-winter visit.
 
Sharma’s Witness
3/30/05 - Chris Sharma, said to be in the best shape of his life, established his hardest boulder problem yet in Arkansas’ Ozark Mountains.
 
Pure Power in Campusing Comp
4/05/05 - Climbers from all over Europe tested the limits of their power at the No Foot Contest VI in Strasbourg, France.
 
13-Year-Old Climbs 13d/14a
4/04/05 - Thirteen-year-old Matt Fultz has redpointed Black Out (5.13d/5.14a) in Logan Canyon, Utah.
 
Finger of Fate Goes Free
3/25/05 - Britons Ben Bransby and Pete Robins have freed the classic Finger of Fate route on Utah's Titan, according to www.ukclimbing.com.
 
Wasatch Powder Keg
3/23/05 - Euros dominate the third annual Black Diamond Wasatch Powder Keg,the only Ski Mountaineering World Cup on U.S. soil.
 
Solo on Cerro Torre
3/23/05 - Aaron Martin had a remarkable season in Patagonia, leading an ascent of Fitz Roy and making a rare solo ascent of Cerro Torre.
 
New V15 for Dave Graham
3/22/05 - Dave Graham has climbed another possible 8c (V15) boulder problem, according to www.8a.nu.
 
Female Dyno Record Broken
3/22/05 - Austrian Nina Arch extended the women’s dyno record by nearly 10 inches at a competition in Britain.
 
Brit Wins First World Cup
3/21/05 - Hometown hero Mark Croxall of the U.K. narrowly won the first Bouldering World Cup of 2005 in Birmingham, England.
 
Powers to Head AAC
3/17/05 - Phil Powers, a longtime mountain guide who has climbed everything from K2 to 5.13 sport routes, has been named Executive Director of the American Alpine Club.
 
 
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