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Late-Summer New Route in Tetons
10/06/06 - Stealing a last bit of summer, Bean Bowers, Greg Collins, and Hans Johnstone onsighted a 5.12 new route on the South Buttress of Mt. Moran in Grant Teton National Park on September 29. 10/06/06 - Matt Bosley has added a new start to a V11 boulder problem in southern New York to create what may be the first V14 in the area. 10/04/06 - A two-season effort in the Cirque of the Towers has produced the hardest reported route in Wyoming’s Wind River Range: a 5.12+ crack and face climb up the steep south face of popular Wolf’s Head peak. 9/29/06 - Starting in December, a Polish expedition will launch the country’s fifth attempt to climb 26,657-foot Nanga Parbat in winter. 9/29/06 - he HERA Women’s Cancer Foundation raised just over $134,000 for ovarian cancer research at their fifth annual Ovarian Cancer Climb for Life in Salt Lake City. 9/28/06 - On September 27, Daniel Woods made the first ascent of Mount Evans' now hardest boulder problem, Ode to the Modern Man (V14). 9/28/06 - Chasing rumors of stable late-season weather for rock climbing, a Slovenian expedition found plenty of storms but still managed some very notable ascents in Pakistan’s Trango Towers, including the first one-day ascent and first all-female ascent of Nameless Tower. 9/27/06 - The enormous West Face of North Howser Tower in the Bugaboos got its third free route this summer, as Ulysse Richard and Manuel Quiroga free-climbed the Seventh Rifle, the 34-pitch original full-length line on the face, established in 1971 by Chris Jones, Tony Qamar, and Galen Rowell. 9/27/06 - All climbers talk about karma, and when you make an international climbing trip to attempt a virgin peak you hope the good karma comes with. 9/26/06 - "Hey guys, Chris Sharma did his arch project in Mallorca today. He hasn’t named it yet — he’s still in the bar celebrating … ” read the email that filmmaker Josh Lowell wrote Climbing on September 26. 9/22/06 - Pavel Kovar and Misha Logvinov made the first ascent of the northeast ridge of Mount Clarence King (IV+ 5.7), in Kings Canyon National Park, September 15 through 17. 9/21/06 - Angela Eiter onsighted the long, endurance route, Skyline (5.13d), in Bürs, Austria over a 45-minute attempt. 9/21/06 - How many routes could you lead in 24 hours? Last weekend’s 24 Hours of Horseshoe Hell challenged teams of two climbers to find out. 9/21/06 - Since sport climbing came to the United States in the 1980s, Christian Griffith has been a household name. 9/21/06 - The elite club of women who climb 5.14b or above, just added two new members, Kinga Ociepka, of Poland and Jenny Lavarda, of Italy. 9/20/06 - Himalayan veteran Denis Urubko dominated this year’s race up Europe’s highest mountain, 18,513-foot Mt. Elbrus in the Russian Caucasus Range. 9/19/06 - Gabriele Moroni, of Novara, Italy, has been on a roll lately, sending several routes in the 5.13b - 5.14b range, including Hawaiian Heroes, in Plan Bernardo, on his second attempt. 9/18/06 - After months of nursing a hand injury, Dave Graham is back in Europe and back to cranking hard. Last week, he completed a 30-move boulder problem in Fionnay, Switzerland, near the residence he has taken up at the resort town of Verbier. 9/18/06 - Americans Doug Chabot, Mark Richey, and Steve Swenson made a rapid, alpine-style ascent of 23,304-foot Latok II in Pakistan via its steep southern buttress. 9/14/06 - Steve Holeczi and Mike Verwey braved an arduous wilderness approach to the North Face of Mt. Geikie, near Canada’s Jasper National Park, and pulled off the first free ascent of the classic Lowe-Hannibal Route (formerly VI 5.10 A3). 9/13/06 - A pair of Polish climbers has established a major free route on Ortotubek (aka Central Pyramid) in the Ak-Su Valley of Kyrgyzstan. 9/12/06 - Chris Brazeau and Jon Walsh blitzed a new route up the mighty North Face of Mt. Alberta in the Canadian Rockies, climbing the 3,300-foot face all-free in a single push on September 7. 9/12/06 - Undaunted by some of the most fearsome approaches in the North Cascades, Wayne Wallace climbed two major new routes in August, one with a partner and one all alone. 9/11/06 - On August 30, Ivo Ninov of Bulgaria, and Nico Favresse of Belgium, established Lost in Translation (V 5.12b/c), a new 10-pitch free route on El Capitan. 9/11/06 - Dave Turner, 25, from Sacramento, California, established and attempted a variety of routes in the mountains outside of Huaraz, Peru in June and July. |
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