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Ukrainians Pick Plum in Karakoram
8/02/06 - A Ukrainian trio has climbed the much-sought north ridge of 18,373-foot Shingu Charpa in the Karakoram Range of Pakistan. 7/31/06 - Italians Romano Benet and Nives Meroi summited K2 in Pakistan last week via the Abruzzi Spur, making the first climb of the world's second-highest peak since 2004. 7/30/06 - At Niagra Glen, native NY state hitman, 25-year-old Ian Irving, established arguably the hardest line, in Zozobra (V12), on April 30. 7/26/06 - merican papers were full of the successes of Floyd Landis in the Tour de France and Tiger Woods in the British Open, but there was a third American victory in Europe last weekend: Emily Harrington of Boulder, Colorado, won the annual Serre-Chevalier comp in France, her best result ever in international competition. 7/26/06 - Slovaks Gabo Čmárik and Jozef “Dodo” Kopold traveled to Pakistan’s Karakoram in early season in search of difficult ice, and they came away with two new routes, including the first ascent of the 7,000-foot northwest face of Uli Biaho. 7/26/06 - Jed Brown and Colin Haley have climbed an enormous new route on the Eiger-like north face of Mt. Moffit in Alaska. 7/26/06 - Ammon McNeely, Ivo Ninov, and Dean Potter raced up El Capitan’s Reticent Wall (VI 5.7 A5) in 34 hours 57 minutes on July 12-13. 7/24/06 - On the evening of July 13, More than 20 million cubic feet of rock came crashing down from the east face of the Eiger (13,025 feet) in Grindelwald, Switzerland. 7/24/06 - North American climbers just missed the finals at a World Cup sport-climbing comp in Chamonix, France. 7/19/06 - Pat Goodman climbed a desperate trad line in western North Carolina, creating one of the boldest leads in the country. 7/18/06 - One of Europe's hardest sport climbs, Definicion de Resistencia Democrata (9a+/5.15a), has been repeated by Spaniard Tino Lois, according to www.8a.nu. 7/13/06 - More than 300 young climbers gathered at ClubSport outside Portland, Oregon, last weekend for the 2006 Youth National Championship, and after it was all over the new U.S. Youth Teams for sport and speed climbing had been named. 7/12/06 - Emily Harrington nabbed the first female ascent of Rifle's The Seven P.M. Show on June 25th. 7/12/06 - Wayne Willoughby, who contracted paralytic polio as a baby and has suffered numerous surgeries and debilitating post polio syndrome ever since, climbed the Nose of El Capitan in 22 hours with Hans Florine and Tico Allulee in late June. 7/11/06 - Mountain Hardwear and the American Alpine Club are creating a new climbing grant, the McNeill Nott Award, in honor of Karen McNeill and Sue Nott, who disappeared during an attempt on the Infinite Spur of Mt. Foraker in Alaska last month. 7/10/06 - An American trio climbed two new routes in the Cordillera Vilcanota of southern Peru, including a beautiful buttress on 20,046-foot Cayangate. 7/7/06 - The nation’s most famous volcano, Mount Saint Helens (8,365 feet), closed due to volcanic activity since Fall 2004, will reopen to climbers in late July. 7/7/06 - Legendary Canadian mountaineer Hans Gmoser, 73, died this week after a cycling accident. Gmoser founded Canadian Mountain Holidays, a leading guide service and helicopter skiing operation, in 1957, and he inspired generations of Rockies climbers and skiers. 7/7/06 - Canadian Jean-Pierre “Peewee” Ouellet has made the probable second ascent of Fiddler on the Roof (5.13d), a roof crack in Fremont Canyon, Wyoming, nearly 20 years after Steve Petro first climbed the route. 7/05/06 - What if you threw an international bouldering competition and didn’t provide decent pads for the landings? At the European Championship in Russia last weekend, the result was no contest. 7/05/06 - A renewed energy invades the East Coast’s seemingly “tapped-out” ‘Gunks bouldering scene, as Paul Robinson, Andy Salo, Ivan Greene, and Vadim Vinokur establish newer, sicker, harder lines. 6/29/06 - A Slovenian duo has completed the alpine-style first ascent of Janak (ca 23,200 feet) in Nepal via its spectacular southwest pillar. 6/28/06 - Canadian Sonnie Trotter has redpointed the much-tried Cobra Crack at Squamish, B.C., calling it solid 5.14, a strong candidate for the world’s hardest crack climb. 6/27/06 - Frenchman Jérôme Meyer has cemented the overall victory in the 2006 bouldering World Cup. 6/26/06 - Mike Anderson and Rob Pizem have made the first free ascent of the Thunderbird Wall route on the North Face of Timbertop Mesa in Zion National Park. |
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