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Ice World Championships
1/25/05 - With no World Cup ice climbing series this year, last weekend's World Championships in Saas-Fee was by default the biggest European competition of the season. 1/20/05 - German Ines Papert was the overwall winner in the difficulty competition at the 2005 Ouray Ice Festival in Colorado, the first time a woman has taken top prize at the event. 1/20/05 - Dave Graham has completed a boulder problem in Switzerland that he says is his hardest yet — and may be the hardest in the world. 1/24/05 - Ryan Nelson and Jared Ogden each redpointed a two-season project in Lake City, Colorado, in mid-December, creating what may be one of the world's hardest mixed climbs. 1/19/04 - Still at it 15 years after he rose to the top of the climbing world, Ben Moon has made the third ascent of The Ace, a V13 gritstone boulder problem at Stanage, England. 1/18/04 - November and December brought some of the best ice conditions in recent memory to the Canadian Rockies, and locals seized the day with repeats of well-formed testpieces and some superb new routes. 1/18/05 - Here’s one for the history books: The Tibetan giant Shishapangma (8,027 meters) has received its second “first winter ascent” of the season. 1/13/05 - The 21-year-old Californian Natasha Barnes is emerging as one of the world’s best female boulderers, with sterling trips to Hueco Tanks, Texas, and Bishop, California, this winter. 1/11/05 - A British pair has made the third ascent, and possible first free ascent, of the decade-old testpiece Omega on France’s Petit Jorasses. 1/07/04 - Michelle Garbert and Barb Clemes, in conjunction with Sam Lightner, have arranged two fund-raisers for the most needy locals of Thailand's Railay Bay, Ao Nang, and PhiPhi Island, whose homes, clothing, boats, livelihoods, relatives and friends were lost in the tsunami. 1/07/05 - A climbers’ group in Vermont has purchased the Bolton Quarry, a popular resource for both ice and rock climbing near Burlington. 1/03/05 - Turning words into action, Will Gadd has repeated what's likely the world’s hardest mixed climb, The Game (M13) at Alberta’s Cineplex crag, without the long heel spurs that have been used extensively on recent mixed testpieces. 1/04/05 - Eleven-year-old Adam Ondra sent 2004 out with a bang by redpointing Mascherina (8c/5.14b) at Grotta dell’Aeronata, a limestone cave near Sperlonga, Italy. 12/30/04 - Sam Lightner is on his way to Thailand and beginning New Year's Eve, or as soon as he arrives, will be making his home there available as a base for parents looking for their kids or other emergency tasks. 12/20/04 - Chris Sharma has made the third ascent of the Fred Nicole boulder problem Esperanza (V14) at Hueco Tanks and been named one of the “Amazing Bodies of the Year” by GQ magazine. 12/17/04 - Swiss climber Didier Berthod, who last year climbed a 5.14a roof crack in Italy, redpointed perhaps the hardest route in Indian Creek, Utah, during a long visit this fall. 12/17/04 - Mike Anderson has freed the classic Lowe Route on Angels Landing in Zion National Park, creating Zion’s most sustained hard free route. 12/14/04 - On December 10 Cicada Jenerik sent Lowrider (V10), the extension to Cholos (V9), at the Happy Boulders in Bishop, California, becoming the first person to “boulder her age” — V10 at age 10. 12/14/04 - The Triple Crown, a three-event bouldering series at some of the Southeast’s best bouldering areas, concluded Dec. 4 with a competition at Little Rock City, outside Chattanooga, Tenn. 12/13/04 - Jean-Christophe Lafaille topped out on Shisha Pangma via the South Face on Dec. 11, a solo ascent without supplementary oxygen that will provide plenty of fodder for debate over the meaning of a “winter ascent.” 12/09/04 - Vadim Vinokur and Emily Harrington won the difficulty comp at the North American Championships in Mexico City over Thanksgiving weekend, and Patrick Cassiday and Alex Johnson were the top speed climbers. 12/08/04 - Scott Semple, Greg Thaczuk, and Eamonn Walsh completed the second ascent of Striving for the Moon (VI WI6) on the East Face of Mount Temple in the Canadian Rockies. 12/07/04 - The U.S. Congress has passed a law that will extend the “Fee Demo” program on public lands for at least a decade, making it likely that $5 daily fees will be charged at hundreds of trailheads on National Forest and BLM lands. 12/07/04 - A new award could provide big bucks to a climber who benefits the mountain world through his or her experiences. 12/02/04 - The Basque superstar Josune Bereziartu has redpointed her second 9a (5.14d), Logical Progression in Joyama, Japan. |
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