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New Lines on Stanley Headwall
1/24/06 - Local climbers have completed two major new routes on the famed Stanley Headwall, home of such Canadian Rockies testpieces as French Reality and The Day After Les Vacances de Monsieur Hulot. 1/23/06 - Ines Papert won the first stage of the women’s 2006 Ice Climbing World Cup, while the men’s comp ended in a tie between Harry Berger and Samuel Anthamatten after eight competition routes. 1/19/06 - Fred Nicole has climbed yet another desperate boulder problem at Hueco Tanks, Texas. 1/18/06 - Elite boulderers and amateurs alike gathered in Maryland and Nevada last weekend for two major bouldering competitions. 1/18/06 - The 11th annual Ouray Ice Festival drew hundreds of ice climbers to the unique ice park in southwestern Colorado, including many of the world’s best, who competed on an overhanging sport-mixed route and a vertical speed pitch. 1/12/06 - Mike Libecki spent five weeks completely alone in remote Queen Maud Land, Antarctica, and soloed to the top of two big rock formations, including a 1,600-foot needle. 1/11/06 - Will Gadd has redpointed Steel Koan, a new route in the Cineplex cave of Alberta, and said it was “the hardest mixed climb I’ve ever done. 1/10/06 - David Lama, a 15-year-old Austrian, has onsighted or flashed four 5.14 routes in Spain, including a flash of El Koala (5.14b) at Santa Linya, according to www.8a.nu. 1/09/06 - UIAA Climbing will organize bouldering and speed-climbing demonstrations in Bardonecchia, Italy, during the 2006 Winter Olympics. 1/04/06 - Game Over, the M13 route in Austria said to be the hardest mixed climb in Europe, has received its second and third ascents, including a repeat by the first ascensionist in a more challenging style. 1/03/06 - Daniel Woods had an extraordinary high school break at Hueco Tanks, Texas, sending two V14s and two V13s, along with a host of easier problems, during a two-week visit. 1/03/06 - The 12-year-old Czech climber Adam Ondra has redpointed Alien Carnage (8c+/5.14c) at Castillon, France, according to www.nice-climb.com. 12/28/05 - Martina Cufar joined the short list of women who have climbed 8c (5.14b) with an ascent of Vizija, a 35-meter-long route at Misa pec in Slovenia. 12/27/05 - Mike Anderson and Rob Pizem have climbed their third big Zion free route of the year, a 12-pitch 5.12d on the giant Isaac formation. 12/16/05 - The Swiss ace Didier Berthod established Learning to Fly (5.13+) on the Wingate sandstone of Indian Creek, Utah, in November. 12/14/05 - Flooded by heavy rains in the fall and frozen by recent Arctic fronts, the ice cliffs above Lake Willoughby in Vermont are in the best shape in years and have yielded two more major new routes. 12/13/05 - Doug Dillon, Will Mayo and Alden Pellett have climbed a much-watched-but-never-formed ice climb at Lake Willoughby in Vermont. 12/12/05 - Chris McNamara and Ammon McNeeley shivered through three productive early-winter days in Zion National Park, setting speed records on three Grade V aid routes. 12/07/05 - Italian Christian Core has established one of the world’s hardest bouldering traverses at Varazze in northwestern Italy. 12/05/05 - Seth Hobby and John Kear made the second ascent of 6186-meter Kyajo Ri via a new route and then made a fast, alpine-style ascent of the Northeast Face of 6440-meter Cholatse in Nepal. 12/01/05 - Eldorado Canyon in Colorado has seen a burst of activity in recent weeks, as locals and visitors established hard new boulder problems and a traditional leading testpiece. 11/30/05 - The BLM has approved a management plan for Indian Creek, Utah, that will mostly allow climbing and camping to continue in its current unregulated form, while also requiring climbers to clean up after themselves. 11/23/05 - After two days of packing by volunteers and staff at its Colorado headquarters, the American Alpine Club today will ship six tons of winter gear and clothing to Pakistan for victims of the recent devastating earthquake. 11/21/05 - Italy’s Flavio Crespi did what he needed to earn the 2005 World Cup season title, winning the final comp in Kranj, Slovenia, by flashing all three routes. 11/17/05 - Alessandro Beltrami, Rolando Garibotti, and Ermanno Salvaterra have climbed a new route on the northern side of Cerro Torre in Patagonia. |
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