Climbing
Hot Flashes News Congress Extends “Fee Demo”
12/07/04 - The U.S. Congress has passed a law that will extend the “Fee Demo” program on public lands for at least a decade, making it likely that $5 daily fees will be charged at hundreds of trailheads on National Forest and BLM lands.
 
$15K Adventure Grant Announced
12/07/04 - A new award could provide big bucks to a climber who benefits the mountain world through his or her experiences.
 
Josune Bereziartu Does Another 5.14+
12/02/04 - The Basque superstar Josune Bereziartu has redpointed her second 9a (5.14d), Logical Progression in Joyama, Japan.
 
New Route on Mont Blanc
11/29/04 - With various partners, John Harlin III completed a lifelong dream to climb a new route on Mont Blanc's storied south face in Italy.
 
Five 14a Onsights in a Year
11/29/04 - Remember when a 5.14a onsight was the ultimate tick? Now, less than a decade later, Patxi Usobiaga of Spain has demonstrated just how far elite climbing has progressed, by making his fifth 5.14a onsight in a single year.
 
Woods Boulders V14
11/24/04 - Fifteen-year-old Daniel Woods has sent Circadian Rhythm (V14), a Dave Graham problem in the granite 420's Boulders of Poudre Canyon, Colorado.
 
World Cup's Dramatic Finale
11/22/04 - When the pressure was on, Angela Eiter of Austria and Tomas Mrazek of the Czech Republic never flinched in a dramatic conclusion to the 2004 World Cup.
 
World Dyno Record Broken
11/19/04 - Stefan Hadfield has broken the world dyno record by leaping 2.7 meters, or nearly 9 feet, from hold to hold. Hadfield made his body-length-and-a-half jump in Auckland, besting the old mark by 10 centimeters.
 
New Route on Cerro Torre
11/17/04 - The Italian Ermanno Salvaterra has led a team of three up the East Face of Cerro Torre via a new route, his latest conquest in a 20-year affair with Patagonia
 
World Cup Down to the Wire
11/15/04 - Nearing the end of an up-and-down season in which two young upstarts are threatening to unseat the defending World Cup champions, the final competition of 2004 next weekend promises to be a cliffhanger.
 
New 5.14d for Fred Rouhling
The French climber Fred Rouhling, profiled in Climbing #232, has completed his fourth new route rated 5.14d or harder.
 
Denali Raises Peak Fee
11/09/04 - Denali National Park has raised the special-use fee for climbers on Mount McKinley and Mount Foraker to $200, effective for the 2005 season.
 
37-Year-Old Film Wins at Banff
11/08/04 - A long-forgotten Polish film made in 1967 won the grand prize at the Banff Mountain Film Festival. Odwrót (“Retreat”) recreates an anonymous climber’s epic solo descent after a mountaineering accident.
 
Banff Book Awards
11/05/04 - A survival story, a history of North American climbing, and an ice-climbing instruction manual were among the prize winners announced Nov. 4 at the 11th annual Banff Mountain Book Festival.
 
Jack Mileski Killer Going to Prison
11/3/04 - The woman who killed climber Jack Mileski in 1997 has been convicted of first-degree murder and sentenced to life in prison.
 
Sarkany Back on Top
11/02/03 - With only two World Cup competitions remaining in the 2004 season, Belgium’s Muriel Sarkany has regained the lead in the overall standings with a superb victory in Valence, France.
 
Rodden Frees 5.14b
11/01/04 - Beth Rodden has made the first free ascent of an old aid pitch at Smith Rock, Oregon, and rated it 5.14b.
 
New Route in Nepal
11/01/04 - Britons Nick Bullock and Nick Carter made the first ascent of the 5,250-foot Northwest Face of Nepal's Tengkang Poche (21,325 feet) in a three-day, alpine-style roundtrip.
 
Asher Shines in World Cup
10/29/04 - American Lizzy Asher has proved she can compete on a world level in lead climbing as well as in bouldering.
 
Jail Time for Wall Operator
10/22/04 - Marcus Floyd, the Missouri man charged with involuntary manslaughter after his portable climbing wall failed and a woman was killed, pled guilty to a lesser charge and will serve a short jail sentence.
 
5.14 Crack Climbed in Québec
10/21/04 - One of the hardest crack climbs in North America has been pinkpointed after three years of attempts by the Québecois Jean-Francois “Jeff” Beaulieu.
 
Nice Ice on Grand’s North Face
10/20/04 - Stephen Koch and Mark Newcomb braved thin ice and a midday storm to snag a new ice line on the North Face of the Grand Teton.
 
9-Pitch Speed Climbing
10/15/04 - A nine-pitch, fully bolted, 5.10a climb in Colorado’s Royal Gorge was the scene of a high-stakes big-wall sport-climbing race in the 2004 Go Fast Games.
 
New Route on Indian Giant
10/14/04 - The Anglo-American team of Ian Parnell and John Varco made the first ascent of the Northwest Face of 22,674-foot Saf Minal in the Garhwal Himalaya of India.
 
New Routes in Greenland
10/14/04 - A Swiss-German expedition to the southern tip of Greenland in late summer yielded nine new routes, almost all of them free, on beautiful granite walls.
 
 
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