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Rands Climbs E8 in Britain
10/13/04 - American Lisa Rands has climbed End of the Affair (E8 6c) at Curbar Edge in England, perhaps the boldest single-pitch rock climb yet by a woman. 10/07/04 - French climber Julien Nadiras has repeated Tonino ’78, the V16 boulder problem established in January by Mauro Calibani. 10/07/04 - Yuji Hirayama has onsighted the route White Zombie (5.14b) at Baltzola in Spain’s Basque country. 10/4/04 - American Vadim Vinokur earned 12th place at a World Cup climbing comp in Shanghai, China, for his best finish so far this season. Vinokur is now ranked 15th in the 2004 season. 10/01/04 - Sandrine Levet and Daniel Du Lac of France are the 2004 bouldering World Cup champions. Levet closed out her season in style, taking the final World Cup comp of the year in steamy heat in Houzou, China. 9/31/04 - Undeterred by autumn’s shorter days, Thad Friday and Josh Wharton climbed three full-length routes in the Black Canyon of the Gunnison in Colorado in under 21 hours. 9/28/04 - Erden Eruc is about to leave Seattle to climb Aconcagua, but he won’t reach the 22,841-foot summit for over a year. 9/23/04 - Pete Schoening, one of the greatest climbers from the golden age of expeditionary mountaineering in the 1950s, died this week. He was 77. 9/22/04 - Sean Isaac and Will Mayo made a winter ascent of Guillaumet in the Fitz Roy region of Patagonia, notable mainly for the speed of the outing. 9/22/04 - Perennial contender Vadim Vinokur from New York and first-time World Cup competitor Ethan Pringle from California both made strong showings at the Marbella, Spain, stop on the circuit September 18-19. 9/21/04 - Proving you don’t have to be a teenager to remain at the top of the sport, Serik Kazbekov, 34, had an amazing day at Covolo, Italy, last week. 9/17/04 - The Nepalese government has endorsed a new speed record for climbing Mount Everest’s 11,335-vertical-foot South Col route from basecamp: 8 hours 10 minutes, set by Pemba Dorjee Sherpa on May 21. 9/17/04 - Dave Marra, Dana Ruddy, and Tom Schnugg pioneered the Northwest Face of Mount Belanger in the Canadian Rockies this summer, via a moderately difficult 2,000-foot ice chute. 9/15/04 - Last weekend’s World Youth Championship victory for Charlotte Durif, who just turned 14 in mid-August, came as no surprise to those who have witnessed the young Frenchwoman’s meteoric rise through the grades. 9/14/04 - Sean McColl of Canada won his third world title in difficulty, Daniel Woods of Colorado finished third in his age category, and American Alex Johnson won the speed-climbing championship at the World Youth Championships in Scotland. 9/07/04 - An outdoor writer in Bozeman, Mont., has launched an effort to name a local peak after the late Alex Lowe. 9/07/04 - Alexander Chabot of France and Angela Eiter of Austria won the 18th annual RockMaster competition in Arco, Italy, the most prestigious invitational comp in the world. 9/01/04 - Three separate Russian expeditions have climbed 25,325-foot Kongur, making the probable third, fourth, and fifth ascents of the highest peak in the Chinese Pamirs. 8/31/04 - A lengthy American-Slovenian expedition to Pakistan this summer made a slew of first ascents and impressive attempts. 8/25/04 - American Lizzy Asher made the final of a bouldering World Cup last weekend in Bardonecchia, Italy, finishing seventh in a field that included most of the world’s strongest bouldering competitors. 8/26/04 - Nathan Martin and Jared Ogden completed a major new route in southern Greenland’s Tasermiut Fjord in superb style, establishing the 2,000-foot-plus wall route in a single day. 8/24/04 - Americans Kelly Cordes and Josh Wharton have made a bold, alpine-style first ascent of the enormous Southwest Ridge of Great Trango Tower (20,617 feet) in Pakistan. 8/23/04 - The four-man team of Justen Sjong, Adam Stack, Tim Kemple, and Max Hanft made a rare visit to the western side of Alaska’s Arrigetch Mountains and came away with two new routes. 8/20/04 - The Basque brothers Iker and Eneko Pou have freed Bravo Les Filles, a 2,000-foot granite route in Madagascar established in 1999 by an all-female team led by Lynn Hill. 8/17/04 - Two more teams have completed ascents of K2, including the second ascent of the “Magic Line,” K2’s steep and technical South-Southwest Pillar. |
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