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Solo New Route on El Cap
8/05/05 - Dave Turner completed a rare solo new route on El Capitan in June. Block Party (VI 5.9 A4) took Turner 18 days on the wall and three days of fixing. 8/4/05 - Britons Paul Schweizer and Simon Yates climbed a new route on the 6,000-foot West Face of Mount Alverstone in the St. Elias Range this spring. 8/03/05 - Chad Kellogg and Joe Puryear bagged a new route on Kichatna Spire in a single-push climb in mid-July, making only the eighth ascent of the Alaskan peak. 7/29/05 - Ammon McNeely, Ivo Ninov and Kevin Jaramillo made the first one-day ascent of the hard-aid classic Zenyatta Mondatta at the end of June. 7/27/05 - The Kazakh duo of Denis Urubko and Serguey Samoilov has climbed a new route alpine-style on the Southwest Face of 26,401-foot Broad Peak in Pakistan. 7/26/05 - American Vadim Vinokur missed a medal at the World Games 2005 by just two handholds, finishing fourth in the quadrennial “alternative Olympics.” 7/23/05 - Shawn Diamond, who wrote about his longtime battle with Crohn’s disease in the current issue of Climbing (No. 242), has redpointed the hardest route of his life, Hasta La Vista (5.14c) at Mount Charleston in Nevada. 7/22/05 - A four-man team has finished off a 20-year-old Jeff Lowe climb in the Cordillera Huayhuash of Peru—a route Lowe called the most difficult solo ice climb of his distinguished career. 7/20/05 - A pair of Korean climbers has completed the first traverse of 26,660-foot Nanga Parbat in Pakistan since the Messner brothers’ infamous climb in 1970. 7/15/05 - The Canadian-American team of David Dornian and Joe Josephson seized short breaks from a lousy weather spell in the Mount Logan massif to establish two big Yukon routes in single-push style. 7/15/05 - Brian McMahon and Josh Wharton, stymied by severe rock fall in their bid to climb the North Face of Huascaran Norte, salvaged a trip to Peru with four lightning-fast free climbs in a little over a week on the beautiful granite of La Esfinge (The Sphinx, 17,470 feet). 7/14/05 - Frenchman Alex Chabot seems to be back in form: After making the podium only once so far this season, Chabot placed third in the World Championships two weeks ago and this week won a World Cup in Chamonix, France, the first victory since last October for the three-time World Cup champion. 7/13/05 - Twenty-nine-year-old Ueli Steck from Switzerland exported the “enchainment” concept from the Alps to the Himalaya this spring, attempting to solo three difficult north faces in the Everest region. 7/12/05 - Coloradans Ryan Nelson and Jared Ogden free-climbed the East Face of Mount Barrille in the Ruth Gorge of Alaska, via the classic Cobra Pillar. 7/11/05 - Steve House and Marko Prezelj made good work of a three-week trip to Peru, with a new route on 18,770-foot Cayesh and a quick repeat on 19,127-foot Taulliraju. 7/11/05 - More than 400 youth and adult climbers competed in the USA Climbing 2005 National Championship at Metrorock in Everest, Mass., and the top four young Americans in each age category were named to the U.S. Youth Team. 7/11/05 - Lynn Hill made a one-day free ascent of the West Face of Leaning Tower in Yosemite while her partner, Katie Brown, freed the climb's crux pitches over a couple of days. 7/06/05 - July 5 was a day for upsets at the World Championships of bouldering in Munich, Germany, as the 37-year-old veteran Salavat Rakhmetov of Russia stole the show. 7/05/05 - Emily Harrington pulled off the greatest climb of her life to take second at the biannual World Championships of lead climbing in Munich, Germany. 6/29/05 - Chris Thomas and Will Mayo made the first ascent of the 10,700-foot subpeak to the right of Mount Huntington’s southwestern face. 6/28/05 - The young Austrian Angela Eiter won her fifth World Cup comp in a row in Zurich, Switzerland, on June 25. 6/28/05 - Brothers Mike and Mark Anderson free climbed the classic Zion aid route Spaceshot at 5.13a, following several variations to the standard eight-pitch climb. 6/22/05 - Samuel Johnson of Alaska and Freddie Wilkinson of New Hampshire made the second ascent of Mount Hunter’s Diamond Arête on the 20th anniversary of the Alaskan classic’s first ascent. 6/20/05 - American Lizzy Asher made the finals of last weekend's bouldering World Cup in Fiera di Primiero, Italy, finishing eighth overall. 6/17/05 - Valery Babanov and Raphael Slawinski have climbed a new route on Denali in single-push style. |
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