Climbing
Hot Flashes News Bouldering Event Draws 500-Plus
6/09/04 - Look out Phoenix, the next big bouldering event may be … La Targasonnic Freeclimb?
 
Vadim Vinokur sends Underground
6/08/04 - This wasn't supposed to be a redpoint trip. But with the World Cup in Imst, Austria over and a few days till his flight back to New York, Vadim Vinokur decided to give Underground one more try.
 
Millet Won't Grade Realization
6/08/04 - Frenchman Sylvain Millet, who made the second ascent of Chris Sharma’s Realization at Ceüse, France, in late May, says he doesn't know how hard it is — the only sure thing, he says, is that it's harder than the 8c+ (5.14c) routes he has climbed at the same crag.
 
Make that Quattro Torri?
6/08/04 - One of the famed Cinque Torri dolomite towers above Cortina d’Ampezzo, Italy, has toppled over due to melt-freeze erosion.
 
Recreation fees at Indian Creek?
6/07/04 - At 11 a.m. on Monday, June 7, at the courthouse in Monticello, Utah, the Western Slope No-Fee Coalition will be making a presentation to San Juan County commissioners regarding the future of the Recreation Fee Demonstration Program in San Juan County, which includes the crack-climbing mecca of Indian Creek.
 
11-year-old climbs 5.14
6/07/04 - The 11-year-old Czech wonder boy Adam Ondra has redpointed Baby Basher (10+/5.14a) at Kochel, the fingery limestone area south of Munich, Germany.
 
Kennedy Northwest Face Completed
6/04/04 - Britons Jon Bracey and Rich Cross have completed the Northwest Face of Mt. Kennedy in the Yukon Territory to the 13,905-foot summit.
 
New Route in Kichatnas
6/04/04 - It might be overstating the case to say Twid Turner has an “enviable” record in Alaska’s Kichatna Spires, given the fact that the Kichatnas’ notoriously nasty weather isn’t for everyone.
 
Chabot, Eiter Win World Cup
6/01/04 - Alex Chabot of France regained his customary position atop the World Cup winners’ podium at Imst, Austria, while local heroines Angela Eiter and Bettina Schöpf finished one-two among the women.
 
Russians Top Everest North Face
6/01/04 - After more than two months of punishing effort, a Russian expedition has completed the direct North Face of Mt. Everest.
 
Success on Jannu North Face
5/26/04 - Russian climbers Dmitry Pavlenko and Alexander Ruchkin reached the summit of Jannu (7,710 meters) today via the north face, completing one of the most difficult high-altitude big walls ever attempted.
 
Caldwell Frees Dihedral Wall
5/25/04 - Tommy Caldwell has freed the Dihedral Wall on El Capitan, a strong candidate for the hardest big-wall free climb in the world. Caldwell redpointed the 25-pitch route over four days in mid-May.
 
Hallucinogen Goes “Free and Dry”
5/24/04 - Jared Ogden and Ryan Nelson have made a post-modern ascent of the Hallucinogen Wall in the Black Canyon of the Gunnison, freeing 13 of the 14 pitches in standard big-wall free-climbing style and dry tooling one super-thin face high on the wall.
 
Solo New Route on Makalu 2
5/24/04 - Jean-Christophe Lafaille soloed a new route on the north side of Makalu 2 (7,650 meters), but was unable to continue to the 8,481-meter main summit of Makalu.
 
Fixed tyrolean in the Black
5/21/04 - This May rangers at the Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park upgraded the tyrolean traverse that spans the Gunnison River between the North and the South Chasm View walls.
 
Twins Free El Cap
5/21/04 - Twin brothers Mike and Mark Anderson, 27, free climbed all 37 pitches of Free Rider (5.12+) on lead or seconding, and Mike Anderson freed every pitch first time without falling.
 
Getting Close on Jannu, Everest
5/20/04 - In a season in which more than 100 climbers already have summited Mt. Everest by its normal routes, two large, well-orchestrated Russian teams are within striking range of the top on much more daunting Himalayan challenges: the north face of Jannu (7,710 meters) and the direct north face of Everest (8,848 meters).
 
280 Routes in a Day
5/18/04 - Californian Michael Reardon free soloed more than 280 routes at Joshua Tree over 19 hours in late April.
 
Koyamada Completes V16
5/17/04 - Japan’s Dai Koyamada has completed a massive link-up at the Hollow Mountain Cave in the Grampians of Australia and rated it 8c (V16).
 
Payne, Hume Take PCA Championship
5/17/04 - Angela Payne took her second Professional Climbers Association (PCA) victory of the season, and David Hume won the first PCA comp he entered all year at the Season III Championships in Boulder, Colorado.
 
Elie Chevieux Alive!
5/14/04 - According to several news sources, Swiss on-sight phenom Elie Chevieux is NOT one of the two Europeans that were stoned to death in Kabul, Afghanistan.
 
Elie Chevieux murdered in Afghanistan
5/11/04 - The Swiss climber Elie Chevieux was found murdered in Kabul, Afghanistan, on May 9. Chevieux, 31, winner and finalist in many international climbing competitions from 1991 to 1997, was brutally murdered with stones in a public park, along with an unidentified friend.
 
Francois Nicole Climbs 5.14+
5/10/04 - Francois Nicole has finished an old project at St. Loup, Switzerland, and graded it 9a/9a+ (5.14d/5.15a), according to www.8a.nu.
 
Steph Davis Frees El Cap
5/07/04 - Steph Davis has free-climbed El Capitan by the route Free Rider, a variation to the Salathé Wall. Davis is the third woman to free El Cap, and only the second to lead every pitch of a free route.
 
Huber Solos 5.14
5/7/04 - Alexander Huber has soloed a 70-foot 8b+ (5.14a) at his favorite crag, Schleierwasserfall in Austria.
 
 
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