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34 Days Alone on a Patagonian Wall
1/28/08 - Californian Dave Turner has reportedly completed a solo new route on the east face of Cerro Escudo, a colossal peak just to the west of the Torres del Paine in Chile. 1/26/08 - Rolando Garibotti and Colin Haley have completed the much-discussed—and occasionally attempted—Torre Traverse: the link-up of Aguja Standhardt, Punta Herron, Torre Egger, and Cerro Torre in a single alpine-style outing. 1/25/08 - Chattanoogan transplants Nathaniel Walker and Luke Laeser recently climbed 50 pitches at Tennessee’s T Wall in a day. 1/21/08 - Bean Bowers and Rolando Garibotti have climbed a much-eyed line on the “back side” of the North Pillar (aka Goretta Pillar) of Fitz Roy in Argentine Patagonia. 1/21/08 - Lisa Rands has climbed The Mandala (V12) in the Buttermilks near her home in Bishop, California. Rands first started trying the overhanging granite prow last season. 1/18/08 - Organizers of the Piolet d'Or, the best-known prize in international mountaineering, have scrubbed plans for the 2008 award ceremony after running out of time to organize a prize with new criteria. 1/17/08 - The recipients of the 2008 Mugs Stump Award were announced at the Ouray Ice Festival in mid-January, at Ouray, Colorado. 1/16/08 - Peter Doucette and Freddie Wilkinson have climbed the second major new route of the season on the left side of New Hampshire’s Cannon Cliff. 1/15/08 - Jeremy Samson and a gang of other climbers have completed the first free ascent of Newborn (29/5.13a, 14 pitches) at Yellowwood, a massive sandstone cliff in the Du Toits Kloof area, north of Cape Town. 1/15/08 - Jeff Mercier from France won the mixed-climbing comp at the 13th Ouray Ice Festival in southwestern Colorado. 1/11/08 - Sir Edmund Hillary, one of the first two men to climb the world’s highest peak, died January 11 in Auckland, New Zealand, his home city. 1/10/08 - Dan Corn and Jim Surette have skied the snow-covered granite slabs of Whitehorse Ledge in North Conway, New Hampshire, making two short rappels to bypass unskiable ice. 1/10/08 - Before the big meltdown this week, New Englanders snagged some fine first ascents. In New Hampshire’s Crawford Notch, Eric McCallister completed the first lead of Dial M for Murder (WI4+ M8) on Mt. Willard. 1/08/08 - Canadian Sean McColl snuck in an ascent of Goldfish Trombone at the Happy Boulders in California, as major storms pounded the Sierra. 1/04/08 - Colin Haley spent Christmas climbing the rarely summited Aguja Desmochada in Patagonia via a partial new route. 1/03/08 - Paul Robinson has made the second ascent of Terremer (V15), the hardest boulder problem at Hueco Tanks, Texas. 1/02/08 - Paul Robinson has flashed Nagual, a “hard V13” at Hueco Tanks, Texas. Robinson “waited two years” to try Nagual, hoping for a successful flash of the 45-degree overhanging wall in the East Spur Maze. 1/02/08 - An international team has climbed new routes on 16,050-foot Mt. Vinson, Antarctica’s highest peak, and 14,803-foot Mt. Epperly, making the third and fourth ascents of Epperly in the process. 12/31/07 - Sometimes called the single best boulder in the world, the Mushroom Boulder at Hueco Tanks, Texas, has been closed to climbing to protect the soil, plant life, and possible archaeological resources under the rock. 12/26/07 - Kelly McBride visited Bishop in mid-December, and came away with a handful of high-level sends. 11/24/07 - The U.S. Forest Service has added 360 acres of land containing Owls Head Cliff to White Mountain National Forest in New Hampshire, completing protection of the large granite cliff. 12/21/07 - Twenty-year-old Dave Manning has soloed the Caroline Face on Aoraki–Mt. Cook in New Zealand. 12/20/07 - A six-member Slovenian team managed four new routes in the Kangchenjunga area of northeastern Nepal, after failing to reach the base of its original objective. 12/17/07 - Daniel Woods has made the second ascent of Midnight Express (V14) near Castle Rock in Boulder Canyon, Colorado. 12/13/07 - The superhuman Patxi Usobiaga has onsighted the first ascent of Bizi Euskaraz (8c+, or 5.14c), at the Etxauri crag in the Navarra region of Spain. |
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