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Francois Nicole Climbs 5.14+
5/10/04 - Francois Nicole has finished an old project at St. Loup, Switzerland, and graded it 9a/9a+ (5.14d/5.15a), according to www.8a.nu. 5/07/04 - Steph Davis has free-climbed El Capitan by the route Free Rider, a variation to the Salathé Wall. Davis is the third woman to free El Cap, and only the second to lead every pitch of a free route. 5/7/04 - Alexander Huber has soloed a 70-foot 8b+ (5.14a) at his favorite crag, Schleierwasserfall in Austria. 5/4/04 - An international team has climbed the north wall of Baruntse in the Khumbu region of Nepal, an imposing face that has been eyeballed by thousands of trekkers from the summit of Island Peak. 5/4/04 - Climbing between storms, Shawn Huisman and Sean Isaac managed to complete two new ice and mixed routes during a short trip to Alaska — their first visit to the Alaska Range. 4/30/04 - An American-Chilean team completed the first ascent of striking Avellano Tower, in what was probably the first climbing expedition to the Avellano Valley of northern Patagonia. 4/29/04 - Now in its 14th year, the Shipton/Tilman Grant awards up to $30,000 annually to adventurers planning small expeditions that reflect the philosophies of the late explorers Eric Shipton (b. 1907) and H.W. "Bill" Tilman (b. 1897). 4/29/04 - Patrick Berhault, one of the most visionary and accomplished climbers of recent decades, died in a fall from the Dom, the highest peak in Switzerland, three-quarters of the way through his unprecedented bid to climb all of the 4,000-meter peaks of the Alps non-stop by foot and ski. 4/27/04 - Adam Stack and Justen Sjong have completed a traditional free ascent of the Salathé Wall (5.13b) on El Capitan, swinging leads and either leading or following every pitch all free. 4/27/04 - Canadian Sonnie Trotter has made an all-traditional redpoint of the East Face (5.13d) of the Monkey Face at Smith Rock, placing all of his pro on the lead. 4/26/04 - If the first World Cup difficulty comp of 2004 is any indication, this year’s circuit could be a lot more exciting than last season. 4/27/04 - The Austrian Kilian Fischhuber has flashed Tai Chi, a route rated 5.14b (8c). The 26-foot, slightly overhanging limestone route at Lorüns was established by Beat Kammerlander and graded 5.14a. 4/20/04 - Tommy Caldwell has flashed the mostly free version of the Leaning Tower, Yosemite's steepest big-wall climb. 4/19/04 - Austrian Kilian Fischhuber has won his first World Cup bouldering competition and moved into the top spot in the overall standings. 4/15/04 - Patrick Berhault and Philippe Magnin are well past the halfway mark on their visionary Tour des Alpes. 4/13/04 - An 11-year-old from the Czech Republic is rapidly emerging as one of the brightest lights in European sport climbing. 4/09/04 - Steve House and Marko Prezelj have made the coveted third ascent of the North Face of North Twin in the Canadian Rockies—the third ascent in 30 years. 4/09/04 - Ben Gilmore and Kevin Mahoney have climbed a new route on the famed East Face of the Moose’s Tooth in the Alaska Range. 4/06/05 - Chris Sharma and Angela Payne won the Petzl Roc Comp national bouldering championships at Earth Treks gym in Maryland. 4/05/04 - Daniel Dulac and Sandrine Levet won the first bouldering World Cup of the year, April 4 in Birmingham, England. 4/02/04 - A large, all-star team of Russian mountaineers has launched a new direct route up the North Face of Mt. Everest, one of the most ambitious attempts in years on the world’s highest peak. 3/31/04 - The huge Sphinx Face on Mount Temple in the Canadian Rockies, which just two weeks ago got its first winter ascent (and possibly second ascent in 15 years), was climbed in a single day round-trip by Scott Semple and Eamonn Walsh. 3/30/04 - The burgeoning sport of ski mountaineering concluded its race season in North America in late March with two major events, including the first World Cup on U.S. snow. 3/26/04 - Raphael Slawinski has made his second trip up the North Face of Mt. Temple this winter, climbing the “Eiger of the Canadian Rockies” with Valery Babanov. 3/25/04 - After three and a half weeks of effort, Frenchmen Patrick Berhault, 47, and Philippe Magnin, 39, have climbed 19 4,000-meter peaks in the Alps, but two spells of snowy weather have put them nearly a week behind schedule. |
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