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Dutchman Takes World Cup
10/31/05 - Emerging star Jorg Verhoeven of the Netherlands won his first World Cup in Valence, France, on Saturday, while defending champ Angela Eiter of Austria resumed her usual place atop the podium. 10/28/05 - Sean Leary and Steve Schneider made a free-ascent of Freerider (VI 5.12d) on El Capitan over three days in early October. 10/28/05 - Mike Anderson and Rob Pizem freed the Dunn Route (aka Angel Hair) in the center of Zion National Park’s Angels Landing in a bold one-day push, after working on the crux pitches on two previous days. 10/27/05 - Steph Davis has become the first woman to free El Cap's Salathe Wall (VI 5.13b/c). 10/24/05 - DNA testing has shown that a corpse discovered at the base of Nanga Parbat this summer almost certainly was the body of Günther Messner. 10/24/05 - After only five ascents in 13 years, Germany’s Action Directe (5.14d) has been redpointed three times in a little over a week. 10/18/05 - Tommy Caldwell has free climbed the Nose of El Capitan in less than 12 hours, taking only one fall on the Changing Corners pitch. 10/18/05 - Mike Pennings and Josh Wharton have climbed the Black Canyon of the Gunnison testpiece The Serpent (5.11+ R/X, 16 pitches) in 13.5 hours, car-to-car. 10/17/05 - Dai Koyamada of Japan has repeated Action Directe (5.14d) in Germany’s Frankenjura, two days after Britain’s Rich Simpson made the landmark route’s sixth ascent. 10/17/05 - Tommy Caldwell and Beth Rodden have completed a free ascent of the Nose of El Capitan. 10/13/05 - Britain’s Rich Simpson, 22, has repeated Action Directe (5.14d) in Germany’s Frankenjura region. 10/12/05 - Emily Harrington, runner-up at this summer’s sport-climbing World Championship, has redpointed Zulu (5.14a) at Rifle, Colorado. 10/06/05 - Josune Bereziartu has onsighted Fuente de Energia (8b/5.13d) at the Spanish crag Vadiello. 10/05/05 - Mauro “Bubu” Bole and Mario Cortese have completed a 38-pitch free climb on the North Face of the Grandes Jorasses. 10/04/05 - Bernd Zangerl has climbed a boulder problem high in the Austrian mountains that he says is his hardest yet. 10/03/05 - Sandrine Levet of France won the World Cup bouldering season title for the fifth time in six years, while Kilian Fischhuber of Austria came from behind to snag the season title at the fourth and final comp in Firminy, France. 9/29/05 - Didier Berthod has returned to Greenspit, the 5.14a roof crack he climbed two years ago in Italy, and completed a traditional redpoint, placing gear as he climbed. 9/28/05 - Chris Sharma has redpointed a new sport route among the giant granite boulders below The Chief in Squamish, B.C., and says it’s “probably 14c or 14d. 9/27/05 - Mike Anderson and Rob Pizem have freed Golden Years, an eight-pitch 5.12+ on Shuntavi Butte in the Kolob area of Zion National Park. 9/23/05 - Bruce Miller and Chris Weidner of Boulder, Colorado, capped a superb visit to the Bugaboos with a new route on giant North Howser Tower, which they later repeated all-free in a day. 9/20/05 - Russian climbers Pavel Shabalin and Ilyas Tukhvatullin have made the first alpine-style ascent of the North Face of Khan Tengri as a two-man team. 9/19/05 - Leo Houlding narrowly missed becoming the first person to lead every pitch of an El Cap free route onsight, taking just one fall on Free Rider. 9/16/05 - Belgian Nicolas Favresse has free-climbed a major new route in Yosemite Valley without any new fixed protection. Favresse, 25, worked for a month on L’Appât (VI 5.13a), the first free route up a big wall about 200 feet right of Yosemite Falls. 9/14/05 - Mike Layton and Erik Wolfe made the first ascent of the 2,500-foot East Face of Southeast Mox Peak in North Cascades National Park, considered one of the “last great problems” of the range. 9/13/05 - Steve House has sent an email from Pakistan describing his and Vince Anderson’s alpine-style ascent of the central pillar on the Rupal Face of Nanga Parbat, sure to go down as one of the great climbs in modern Himalayan history. |
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