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Diamond Couloir Still Climbable
11/17/05 - Global warming may be melting the snows of Kilimanjaro, but the famed Diamond Couloir on Mount Kenya is still climbable, as long as climbers adopt a modern approach. 11/16/05 - Mick Fowler and Chris Watts have made the first ascent of Kajaqiao, a striking 6447-meter peak in eastern Tibet. 11/14/05 - Fifty-nine-year-old Lee Sheftel has redpointed The Whole Shot (5.14a) at the enormous Pipe Dream cave of Maple Canyon, Utah. 11/7/05 - Sur le fils des 4000,” directed by Gilles Chappaz, is the grand-prize winner at the Banff Mountain Film Festival. 11/2/05 - Americans Chad Kellogg, Joe Puryear and Stoney Richards established two long rock routes in the mountains of Sichuan, China, in mid-October. 11/1/05 - The Access Fund has awarded $30,900 in its third round of grant funding for 2005 bringing the total for the year to just over $100,000 across 23 grants. 11/1/05 - Two weeks after he free-climbed the Nose of El Capitan in 12 hours, Tommy Caldwell has linked the Nose and Freerider all-free in 23 hours 23 minutes. 10/31/05 - Emerging star Jorg Verhoeven of the Netherlands won his first World Cup in Valence, France, on Saturday, while defending champ Angela Eiter of Austria resumed her usual place atop the podium. 10/28/05 - Sean Leary and Steve Schneider made a free-ascent of Freerider (VI 5.12d) on El Capitan over three days in early October. 10/28/05 - Mike Anderson and Rob Pizem freed the Dunn Route (aka Angel Hair) in the center of Zion National Park’s Angels Landing in a bold one-day push, after working on the crux pitches on two previous days. 10/27/05 - Steph Davis has become the first woman to free El Cap's Salathe Wall (VI 5.13b/c). 10/24/05 - DNA testing has shown that a corpse discovered at the base of Nanga Parbat this summer almost certainly was the body of Günther Messner. 10/24/05 - After only five ascents in 13 years, Germany’s Action Directe (5.14d) has been redpointed three times in a little over a week. 10/18/05 - Tommy Caldwell has free climbed the Nose of El Capitan in less than 12 hours, taking only one fall on the Changing Corners pitch. 10/18/05 - Mike Pennings and Josh Wharton have climbed the Black Canyon of the Gunnison testpiece The Serpent (5.11+ R/X, 16 pitches) in 13.5 hours, car-to-car. 10/17/05 - Dai Koyamada of Japan has repeated Action Directe (5.14d) in Germany’s Frankenjura, two days after Britain’s Rich Simpson made the landmark route’s sixth ascent. 10/17/05 - Tommy Caldwell and Beth Rodden have completed a free ascent of the Nose of El Capitan. 10/13/05 - Britain’s Rich Simpson, 22, has repeated Action Directe (5.14d) in Germany’s Frankenjura region. 10/12/05 - Emily Harrington, runner-up at this summer’s sport-climbing World Championship, has redpointed Zulu (5.14a) at Rifle, Colorado. 10/06/05 - Josune Bereziartu has onsighted Fuente de Energia (8b/5.13d) at the Spanish crag Vadiello. 10/05/05 - Mauro “Bubu” Bole and Mario Cortese have completed a 38-pitch free climb on the North Face of the Grandes Jorasses. 10/04/05 - Bernd Zangerl has climbed a boulder problem high in the Austrian mountains that he says is his hardest yet. 10/03/05 - Sandrine Levet of France won the World Cup bouldering season title for the fifth time in six years, while Kilian Fischhuber of Austria came from behind to snag the season title at the fourth and final comp in Firminy, France. 9/29/05 - Didier Berthod has returned to Greenspit, the 5.14a roof crack he climbed two years ago in Italy, and completed a traditional redpoint, placing gear as he climbed. 9/28/05 - Chris Sharma has redpointed a new sport route among the giant granite boulders below The Chief in Squamish, B.C., and says it’s “probably 14c or 14d. |
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