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Big Free Route in Zion
9/27/05 - Mike Anderson and Rob Pizem have freed Golden Years, an eight-pitch 5.12+ on Shuntavi Butte in the Kolob area of Zion National Park. 9/23/05 - Bruce Miller and Chris Weidner of Boulder, Colorado, capped a superb visit to the Bugaboos with a new route on giant North Howser Tower, which they later repeated all-free in a day. 9/20/05 - Russian climbers Pavel Shabalin and Ilyas Tukhvatullin have made the first alpine-style ascent of the North Face of Khan Tengri as a two-man team. 9/19/05 - Leo Houlding narrowly missed becoming the first person to lead every pitch of an El Cap free route onsight, taking just one fall on Free Rider. 9/16/05 - Belgian Nicolas Favresse has free-climbed a major new route in Yosemite Valley without any new fixed protection. Favresse, 25, worked for a month on L’Appât (VI 5.13a), the first free route up a big wall about 200 feet right of Yosemite Falls. 9/14/05 - Mike Layton and Erik Wolfe made the first ascent of the 2,500-foot East Face of Southeast Mox Peak in North Cascades National Park, considered one of the “last great problems” of the range. 9/13/05 - Steve House has sent an email from Pakistan describing his and Vince Anderson’s alpine-style ascent of the central pillar on the Rupal Face of Nanga Parbat, sure to go down as one of the great climbs in modern Himalayan history. 9/9/05 - Slovaks Dodo Kopold and Gabo Čmárik have climbed an enormous new rock route on the southwest side of 20,460-foot Great Trango Tower in Pakistan. 9/9/05 - Vince Anderson and Steve House have climbed a direct new route on the Rupal Face of 26,657-foot Nanga Parbat in Pakistan, according to www.grivelnorthamerica.com. 9/7/05 - Three U.S. climbers made a 12-hour ascent of the Eternal Flame route on Trango (“Nameless”) Tower in Pakistan, but were kept from the true summit by a fierce snowstorm. 9/7/05 - A team of six British climbers put up three big routes on the granite spires of the Karavashin area of Kyrgyzstan, infamous as the place where Americans Tommy Caldwell, John Dickey, Beth Rodden and Jason Smith were kidnapped by militants in 2000. 9/6/05 - Angela Eiter of Austria and Ramón Julián (Ramonet) Puigblanque of Spain won the 19th Rock Master competition in Arco, Italy, the most prestigious annual competition in the world. 9/1/05 - Several companies have begun guiding climbers up 16,023-foot Carstensz Pyramid in Indonesia, one of the Seven Summits, three years after the mountain was closed to climbing. 8/29/05 - Forty-three members of the U.S. Youth Climbing Team journeyed to Beijing, China, to compete on a huge outdoor wall in the Youth World Championship, Aug. 25-28. 8/25/05 - A small international team has climbed a major new route on what’s believed to be Trango II (20,758 feet), a peak adjacent to Nameless Tower in Pakistan. 8/23/05 - Reinhold Messner has identified a body found near the base of the Diamir face of Nanga Parbat in Pakistan as that of his brother, Günther, based on the boots and jacket with the body. 8/23/05 - Shawn Diamond, the 22-year-old who described his long battle with Crohn’s disease in Climbing 242, has redpointed Biographie (8c+/5.14c) at Ceüse, France. 8/17/05 - In early August Beth Rodden-Caldwell repointed Lumpy Ridge’s Anaconda (5.13b/c), her second hardest crack climb to date. 8/17/05 - Chris Sharma easily won the men’s elite competition at the Mammut Sendfest in Salt Lake City, while Tomoko Ogawa of Japan won a closely fought battle among the women. 8/16/05 - Tomás Mrázek, the two-time World Champion of sport climbing from the Czech Republic, has onsighted the route Patra Negra (5.14b) at Rodellar in northern Spain. 8/12/05 - Tomaz Humar was plucked from his perch on the Rupal Face of Nanga Parbat by a Pakistani Army helicopter in a dramatic and rare instance of modern “short-haul” rescue at high altitude. 8/09/05 - Two Pakistani helicopters attempted to rescue Tomaz Humar from partway up the Rupal Face of Nanga Parbat today, but clouds prevented the choppers from plucking the Slovenian alpinist from the wall or delivering supplies to him. 8/09/05 - Hans Florine has broken the record for speed-soloing The Nose on El Capitan, climbing Yosemite’s centerpiece route in 11 hours 41 minutes. 8/08/05 - The great Slovenian alpinist Tomaz Humar is pinned on a tiny snow ledge about one-third of the way up the Rupal Face on 26,657-foot Nanga Parbat, and Humar’s support team has called for a helicopter rescue. 8/05/05 - Dave Turner completed a rare solo new route on El Capitan in June. Block Party (VI 5.9 A4) took Turner 18 days on the wall and three days of fixing. |
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