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Purnell Climbs The Game
3/22/04 - Coloradan Rich Purnell has repeated The Game (M13) near Canmore, Alberta, becoming the first American to climb the world’s hardest mixed route. 3/22/04 - Ethan Pringle and Angela Payne won the American Bouldering Series (ABS) national at the Pipeworks gym in Sacramento, California, on Saturday. 3/19/04 - Vadim Vinokur and Emily Harrington won the difficulty comp at the USA Climbing Adult Open National, held at the X-Treme climbing gym in Miami, Florida, on March 13. 3/19/04 - On a warm, calm day last Friday, Jonny Copp and Josh Wharton raced up the Diamond of Colorado's 14,259-foot Longs Peak in 14 hours and 17 minutes, car to car. 3/16/04 - In the Shadow of the Chief, a 50-minute documentary of the 1961 first ascent of Stawamus Chief in British Columbia, won the grand prize at the 7th Annual Vancouver International Mountain Film Festival. 3/12/04 - Many of Europe’s best mixed climbers descended on Canmore, Alberta, for the annual ice festival during the first week of March, and the Cineplex, site of Canada’s hardest mixed routes, saw numerous repeats. 3/10/04 - Americans Josh Helling and Mike Libecki climbed a new big-wall route in rarely visited Queen Maud Land, Antarctica, during a two-month visit to the southern continent. 3/09/04 - Good news, bad news for Jonny Copp and Josh Wharton in Patagonia this year: On the one hand, they arrived in time for one of the longest good-weather windows in memory and reached two summits. 3/05/04 - Steve McClure, Britain’s strongest sport climber, has turned his attention to gritstone and climbed a desperate but fairly well-protected problem at Curbar Edge. 3/04/04 - Ben Firth and Raphael Slawinski have made a winter ascent of the much-tried Greenwood-Locke Route on the North Face of Mt. Temple in the Canadian Rockies. 3/03/04 - To protect Prairie Falcon nesting sites, the National Park Service will temporarily close climbing routes along the west and northeast face of Devils Tower beginning March 15th. 3/03/04 - Matt Segal and Angela Payne were the top finishers at the Mammut ABS National Bouldering Championship in Boulder, Colorado. 3/03/04 - Charlie Fowler received the American Alpine Club’s Robert and Miriam Underhill Award, the club’s highest honor for climbing achievement, at the AAC’s annual meeting in Las Vegas on February 28. 2/26/04 - Coloradan Rich Purnell has added two extremely difficult mixed lines to the Secret Cicle area of Vail, which now holds “the highest concentration of hard routes in Vail and the USA. 2/25/04 - Patrick Berhault and Philippe Magnin are about to launch a new endurance test in Europe: All 82 of the 4,000-meter summits of the Alps in 82 days. 2/25/04 - Canadian guide Dave Marra and Californian Tom Schnugg climbed a huge and extremely dangerous new ice route on the North Face of Snow Dome in the Canadian Rockies. 2/24/04 - A Russian team has completed a 36-pitch new route on the north face of 17,552-foot Ak-Su in the Pamir-Alai mountains of Kyrygzstan. 2/23/04 - British strongman John Gaskins has climbed a new boulder problem at Trowbarrow in the Lakes District of England that he thinks may be V15. 2/20/04 - The superb conditions that draped the Adirondacks with ice earlier this year are mostly gone, but unusually thick ice continues to cover the popular walls above Chapel Pond. 2/13/04 - The prolific Dai Koyamada has climbed another V15 (8c) boulder problem in Japan. Methuselahzation is a 25-move problem at the Yatsue area in Kagoshima, near the southern tip of the island. 2/11/04 - Hard boulder problems are falling left and right to European strong men. 2/09/04 - Coloradans Ryan Nelson and Jared Ogden made a two-week tour of Europe’s highly publicized mixed-climbing venues and quickly cleaned up some of the hardest routes. 2/06/04 - In mid-January, two teams of veteran alpinists completed the Tetons’ Grand Traverse in winter for the first time. 2/04/04 - Not to be dissing Dave Graham, but one of his hardest Rumney routes, The Fly (9a or 5.14d), received an embarrassing amount of attention this fall. 2/04/04 - Steph Davis, crack-climbing diva from Moab, made the “first girly ascent” (her words) of the local testpiece The Crack House, a long roof-crack problem. |
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