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Mount Alberta in Winter
3/7/05 - Scott Semple, Raphael Slawinski, and Eamonn Walsh made the first winter ascent of 11,873-foot Mount Alberta in the Canadian Rockies. 3/03/05 - As if Cerro Torre weren’t hard enough to climb already, the Slovenian duo of Andrej Grmovsek and Silvo Karo added a long, indirect start to the Compressor Route on the mountain. 3/01/05 - Taking full advantage of fine conditions, Mark Bunker and Colin Haley did the first winter ascent of the complete North Ridge of Mount Stuart in Washington state. 2/28/05 - The Russian expedition that climbed the North Face of Jannu in Nepal has won the Piolet d'Or, the golden ice axe that is awarded annually in France for the top mountaineering ascent of the year. 2/25/05 - Dave MacLeod has climbed The Hurting, a summertime E4 6a (hard 5.11) on Cairngorm, creating Scotlands first Grade XI route. The Scottish XI 11 grade translates roughly to M9+ or M10 climbing with groundfall potential. 2/23/05 - At the finals of the USA Climbing Youth Bouldering National Championship, the top four climbers in each age group were selected for the 2005 Youth Bouldering National Team. 2/22/05 - Daniel Woods from Colorado and Portia Menlove from Utah won the American Bouldering Series National at The Spot Gym in Boulder, Colorado. 2/18/05 - Christian Griffith, one of the best climbers ever produced by Boulder, Colorado, has jumped into politics in a bid to protect his hometown's climbing, bouldering, and other mountain sports. 2/18/05 - Two Slovenian women, Monika Kambic Mali and Tanja Grmovsek, have made the first all-female ascent of Cerro Torre, via the Compressor Route. 2/15/05 - Will Mayo led a tri-state romp across the Northeast’s best ice, bagging four classics in a single long day of climbing and driving. 2/15/05 - The Mugs Stump Alpine Climbing award is given each year to support small teams with climbing objectives that exemplify fast, light, and clean alpinism. 2/10/05 - The torrential winter rains in Southern California have washed away one of the nation’s best boulder gardens: the Tar Creek, a.k.a. Swimming Hole, bouldering area. 2/10/05 - A federal judge has rejected an Access Fund lawsuit that sought to overturn a Forest Service ban of climbing at Cave Rock, Nevada. 2/09/05 - The new mixed route Alcatraz in Glenwood Canyon, Colorado, touted as a possible M14, was repeated by Will Gadd and Ryan Nelson in early February. 2/07/05 - Anderl Heckmair, who led the first ascent of the great North Face of the Eiger in Switzerland, died last week at age 98. 2/07/05 - Ines Papert from Germany and Harald Berger of Austria won the European and World Championship of “Ice Boulder” in Valle di Daone, Italy. 1/31/05 - Twenty-eight-year-old Hamish Gowans has climbed 21 Colorado fourteeners in the first month and a day of this winter, making steady progress in a bid to solo all 54 of the Colorado fourteeners in a single calendar winter. 1/28/05 - Rich Purnell has redpointed an enormous cave route in Glenwood Canyon, Colorado, and labeled the climb Alcatraz (M14). 1/25/05 - With no World Cup ice climbing series this year, last weekend's World Championships in Saas-Fee was by default the biggest European competition of the season. 1/20/05 - German Ines Papert was the overwall winner in the difficulty competition at the 2005 Ouray Ice Festival in Colorado, the first time a woman has taken top prize at the event. 1/20/05 - Dave Graham has completed a boulder problem in Switzerland that he says is his hardest yet — and may be the hardest in the world. 1/24/05 - Ryan Nelson and Jared Ogden each redpointed a two-season project in Lake City, Colorado, in mid-December, creating what may be one of the world's hardest mixed climbs. 1/19/04 - Still at it 15 years after he rose to the top of the climbing world, Ben Moon has made the third ascent of The Ace, a V13 gritstone boulder problem at Stanage, England. 1/18/04 - November and December brought some of the best ice conditions in recent memory to the Canadian Rockies, and locals seized the day with repeats of well-formed testpieces and some superb new routes. 1/18/05 - Here’s one for the history books: The Tibetan giant Shishapangma (8,027 meters) has received its second “first winter ascent” of the season. |
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