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Two Himalayan First Ascents
5/23/05 - A French expedition has made the first ascent of two 7,000-meter peaks in the Himalaya: the north and central summits of Chomo-Lonzo. 5/20/05 - Less than a week after Ed Viesturs summited Annapurna to become the first American to climb all 14 of the worldís 8,000-meter peaks, the same mountain dealt a reminder of just how dangerous this game can be. 5/17/05 - Inspired by the recent first one-day ascent of the Hallucinogen Wall in Colorados Black Canyon of the Gunnison, Ryan Nelson and Jared Ogden smashed the speed record for the route. 5/17/05 - Climbing photographer Jimmy Chin has won the inaugural Rowell Award for the Art of Adventure. 5/12/05 - Ed Viesturs has completed his 16-year quest to be the first American to climb all 14 of the worlds 8,000-meter peaks. 5/11/05 - The world’s best female rock climber, Josune Bereziartu, posted to www.8a.nu that she has made the second ascent of Bimbaluna at St. Loup, Switzerland, a possible 5.15. 5/10/05 - David Lama, age 14, has redpointed Reini’s Vibes at Massone in Arco, Italy, a route considered “easy” 5.14c, according to www.8a.nu. 5/10/05 - Sean Isaac, Rob Owens and Roger Strong pioneered a 2,300-foot mixed route on the Northwest Face of Alaska’s Kichatna Spire on May 1. 5/06/05 - Climber, mountain guide, educator and activist Jim Ratz was killed May 4 in a fall in Sinks Canyon, near his home in Lander, Wyoming. 5/05/05 - Iker Pou Azkarrga, the Basque climber who has done everything from V14 boulder problems to 5.14 free walls, is now the third climber to flash an 8c (5.14b) rock climb. 5/04/05 - Author and mountaineer R.J. Secor was severely injured in mid-April when he lost control of a glissade on Mount San Antonio (aka Mount Baldy) in Southern California’s San Gabriel Mountains. 5/02/05 - Could this be Vadim Vinokur’s year? Brooklyn's finest climber pulled off the best World Cup of his career, taking fifth in Flanders, Belgium, on April 30. 5/02/05 - Three teams of young climbers have won Lyman Spitzer Climbing Grants from the American Alpine Club totaling $12,000, plus gear from MSR, Therm-a-Rest and Platypus. 4/29/05 - After years of attempts, two brothers succeeded on the probable first winter ascent of Glacier National Park’s highest peak. 4/28/05 - The Japanese Dai Koyamada has established another long boulder problem that may be harder than V15, according to www.8a.nu. 4/27/05 - Alan Doak and Stefan Griebel completed a one-day ascent of the Hallucinogen Wall (VI 5.10 A3+), Colorado’s premier aid route, on April 23. 4/25/05 - Italian Flavio Crespi won the first lead-climbing World Cup of 2005, in Veliko Tarnovo, Bulgaria. 4/25/05 - A multinational team has free-climbed the El Capitan-sized wall to the left of Angel Falls in Venezuela, using no bolts for protection. 4/22/05 - The budding partnership of Valeri Babanov and Raphael Slawinski has completed yet another winter-conditions route on a classic face of the Canadian Rockies. 4/20/05 - A trio of desert adventurers has established one of the longest girdle traverses in North America: the 1.4-mile traverse of the Great White Wall in Utah. 4/18/05 - Maximizing the last days of spring before hot weather settles on northern Spain, Dani Andrada has redpointed his second possible 5.15 in a single month. 4/15/05 - Turning his attention from bouldering to routes as the weather warms, Dave Graham, our man in Europe, has done a pair of desperate climbs, including the classic Bain de Sang (9a/5.14d). 4/13/05 - Austrian Bernd Zangerl spent a month at Hueco Tanks this winter and repeated two of the park’s V14 boulder problems. 4/11/05 - Sandrine Levet won her second World Cup in a row while Jérôme Meyer narrowly won the men’s crown for a French sweep of the Moscow Bouldering World Cup. 4/07/05 - The great Swiss boulderer Fred Nicole, who has established most of the cutting-edge problems at Hueco Tanks, completed two more desperates in a late-winter visit. |
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