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Chinese Peak Gets First Ascent
12/16/03 - British alpinists Julie-Ann Clyma and Roger Payne bagged the first ascent of 20,919-foot Mt. Grosvenor in Sichuan Province of central China. 12/12/03 - Briton Nick Bullock soloed a new route on the unclimbed north side of Teng Kangpoche (6500 meters) in the Khumbu region of Nepal, although he didn’t quite make the summit. 12/11/03 - The isolated and storm-lashed summit of Murallon on the southern Patagonian Icecap has been reached by a new route. 12/10/03 - Tommy Caldwell has added the Zodiac to his tick list of El Cap free climbs. Caldwell completed the 5.13-plus version of the classic El Cap aid route in late November. 12/10/03 - On Friday November 28th Rich Purnell and M9entertainment hosted the first annual Psyche Night show at the American Mountaineering Center in Golden, CO. 12/08/03 - Sandrine Levet of France left no doubt that she was the dominant all-around competition climber of 2003, as she won both the final World Cup bouldering and difficulty (lead climbing) events in Edinburgh, Scotland. 12/05/03 - Matt Wilder is at it again in Hueco. Last weekend, he repeated the classic Fred Nicole problem Crown of Aragorn (V13) at Hueco Tanks, Texas. 12/04/03 - An ice climbing competition in balmy southern France? Well, not exactly. Last weekend, the world’s first dry-toooling competition on natural rock was held at the Gorges des Gâts, about an hour south of Grenoble. 12/03/03 - Camping fees at the climbers' campgrounds at Joshua Trees go into effect February 17th, and are causing quite a stir. 12/03/03 - Dai Koyamada has established a new boulder problem at Hourai, Japan, that he rates “at least 8c,” or V15, according to www.8a.nu. 12/02/03 - Sixteen-year-old Vasya Vorotnikov has redpointed Steady Slobbin’ (5.14b) at Rumney. 12/01/03 - James Litz has redpointed I Scream (5.14c) in the Hell Cave of American Fork Canyon, Utah, according to www.8a.nu. 11/26/03 - Jack Durrance, one of the best American climbers of the late 1930s and early ’40s, has died at 91. 12/01/03 - Vadim Vinokur must like Asian food. For the second year in a row, the American climber has made the finals in a World Cup in the Far East, finishing sixth in Shenzen, China, on November 22. 11/26/03 - Jack Durrance, one of the best American climbers of the late 1930s and early 1940s, has died at 91. 11/21/03 - Iker Pou, the Spaniard who has already repeated two 5.14d routes, Action Directe and Bain de Sang, has established a 5.14d (9a) of his own in northern Spain. 11/18/03 - How hard can WI4 be with modern ice tools? Pretty darned hard if the ice is only 0.5 to 1.5 inches thick for many pitches in a row. 11/17/03 - Ramón Julián of Spain edged closer to an overall World Cup upset by beating Alex Chabot of France in Kranj, Slovenia, on Saturday. 11/13/03 - In response to the recent decision by the US Forest Service (USFS) to uphold the Cave Rock climbing ban, the Access Fund announced today that it will file a lawsuit requesting the courts overturn the USFS ruling. 11/13/03 - British climbers Ian Parnell and Kenton Cool, along with American John Varco, made the first ascent of the much-tried Southwest Ridge of Annapurna III (7,555 meters) in Nepal. British Columbia’s Bugaboos saw a warm, dry summer, with much high-level free-climbing action to match.  Livin’ Astroglide
”It was like trying to sell three Kirbys in a week,” says Joe Kinder of the effort required for his new route at Rumney, New Hampshire, his hardest to redpoint date.  Eigersport
Stephan Siegrist and Ueli Steck of Switzerland finished the first free ascent of the Rote Fluh on the right side of the Eiger's great Nordwand. 11/11/03 - A non-climbing film took the grand prize at the 28th Banff Mountain Film Festival last weekend. 11/10/03 - The US Forest Service has rejected the Access Fund’s appeal of its decision to shut down climbing at Lake Tahoe’s Cave Rock. |
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