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New 5.14d for Fred Rouhling
The French climber Fred Rouhling, profiled in Climbing #232, has completed his fourth new route rated 5.14d or harder. 11/09/04 - Denali National Park has raised the special-use fee for climbers on Mount McKinley and Mount Foraker to $200, effective for the 2005 season. 11/08/04 - A long-forgotten Polish film made in 1967 won the grand prize at the Banff Mountain Film Festival. Odwrót (“Retreat”) recreates an anonymous climber’s epic solo descent after a mountaineering accident. 11/05/04 - A survival story, a history of North American climbing, and an ice-climbing instruction manual were among the prize winners announced Nov. 4 at the 11th annual Banff Mountain Book Festival. 11/3/04 - The woman who killed climber Jack Mileski in 1997 has been convicted of first-degree murder and sentenced to life in prison. 11/02/03 - With only two World Cup competitions remaining in the 2004 season, Belgium’s Muriel Sarkany has regained the lead in the overall standings with a superb victory in Valence, France. 11/01/04 - Beth Rodden has made the first free ascent of an old aid pitch at Smith Rock, Oregon, and rated it 5.14b. 11/01/04 - Britons Nick Bullock and Nick Carter made the first ascent of the 5,250-foot Northwest Face of Nepal's Tengkang Poche (21,325 feet) in a three-day, alpine-style roundtrip. 10/29/04 - American Lizzy Asher has proved she can compete on a world level in lead climbing as well as in bouldering. 10/22/04 - Marcus Floyd, the Missouri man charged with involuntary manslaughter after his portable climbing wall failed and a woman was killed, pled guilty to a lesser charge and will serve a short jail sentence. 10/21/04 - One of the hardest crack climbs in North America has been pinkpointed after three years of attempts by the Québecois Jean-Francois “Jeff” Beaulieu. 10/20/04 - Stephen Koch and Mark Newcomb braved thin ice and a midday storm to snag a new ice line on the North Face of the Grand Teton. 10/15/04 - A nine-pitch, fully bolted, 5.10a climb in Colorado’s Royal Gorge was the scene of a high-stakes big-wall sport-climbing race in the 2004 Go Fast Games. 10/14/04 - The Anglo-American team of Ian Parnell and John Varco made the first ascent of the Northwest Face of 22,674-foot Saf Minal in the Garhwal Himalaya of India. 10/14/04 - A Swiss-German expedition to the southern tip of Greenland in late summer yielded nine new routes, almost all of them free, on beautiful granite walls. 10/13/04 - American Lisa Rands has climbed End of the Affair (E8 6c) at Curbar Edge in England, perhaps the boldest single-pitch rock climb yet by a woman. 10/07/04 - French climber Julien Nadiras has repeated Tonino ’78, the V16 boulder problem established in January by Mauro Calibani. 10/07/04 - Yuji Hirayama has onsighted the route White Zombie (5.14b) at Baltzola in Spain’s Basque country. 10/4/04 - American Vadim Vinokur earned 12th place at a World Cup climbing comp in Shanghai, China, for his best finish so far this season. Vinokur is now ranked 15th in the 2004 season. 10/01/04 - Sandrine Levet and Daniel Du Lac of France are the 2004 bouldering World Cup champions. Levet closed out her season in style, taking the final World Cup comp of the year in steamy heat in Houzou, China. 9/31/04 - Undeterred by autumn’s shorter days, Thad Friday and Josh Wharton climbed three full-length routes in the Black Canyon of the Gunnison in Colorado in under 21 hours. 9/28/04 - Erden Eruc is about to leave Seattle to climb Aconcagua, but he won’t reach the 22,841-foot summit for over a year. 9/23/04 - Pete Schoening, one of the greatest climbers from the golden age of expeditionary mountaineering in the 1950s, died this week. He was 77. 9/22/04 - Sean Isaac and Will Mayo made a winter ascent of Guillaumet in the Fitz Roy region of Patagonia, notable mainly for the speed of the outing. 9/22/04 - Perennial contender Vadim Vinokur from New York and first-time World Cup competitor Ethan Pringle from California both made strong showings at the Marbella, Spain, stop on the circuit September 18-19. |
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