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Youth World Championships
9/24/03 - The U.S. and Canadian teams put three young climbers on the podium at the Youth World Championships in Veliko Tarnovo, Bulgaria, last weekend. 9/22/03 - Hans Florine has smashed the record for climbing California’s 14,000-foot peaks. Starting in the wee hours of September 17, Florine bagged eight Sierra 14’ers in the next 24 hours. 9/19/03 - After several days of preparation, Mauro “Bubu” Bole redpointed the 11-pitch Camillotto Pellesier on Italy’s Cima Grande di Lavaredo, finding three pitches of 5.13 (up to 5.13d), two pitches of 5.12, and four pitches of 5.11. 9/17/03 - Pat Goodman and Hank Jones climbed the first all-free route in the Vampire Spires, a remote area of granite towers about 25 miles from the Cirque of the Unclimbables in Canada’s Northwest Territories. 9/16/03 - Stephen Koch and Jimmy Chin, along with their two Sherpa companions, turned back at 6,800 meters in waist-deep snow on Mt. Everest’s North Face. 9/15/03 - Climber Joe Hestick broke his hip and several ribs in a fall while descending to the peak’s lower saddle with his wife Beth. 9/15/03 - Salavat Rakhmetov of Russia proved once again that, at 35 years old, he still keeps up with the youngsters in World Cup bouldering. 9/10/03 - Jared McMillen of Las Vegas redpointed his first 5.14b, Legend of the Overfiend at Mt. Charleston, on September 8. 9/09/03 - Matt Samet and Tim Kemple made the probable second and third ascents, back-to-back, of the late Derek Hersey’s run-out masterpiece To RP or Not to Be (5.12a X) in Eldorado Canyon, Colorado. 9/08/03 - Alex Chabot of France concluded one of the best weeks of sport climbing ever by climbing three solid 5.14s in one day. 9/05/03 - A strong group of British climbers completed an extremely successful free-climbing expedition to Torssuagatoq Sound in southern Greenland this summer. 9/03/03 - Alexander and Thomas Huber have created two more alpine testpieces on the limestone North Face of the Feuerhorn in the Bavarian Alps. 9/02/03 - The El Capitan testpiece El Niño got its first American free ascent (and fourth overall), when Steve Schneider, Brian Cork and Heather Baer redpointed the climb this summer. 9/02/03 - French superstar Alexandre Chabot, the reigning World Cup sport climbing champion, has "amnesia onsighted" a 5.14b (8c). 8/29/03 - Bad news for alpine-ice enthusiasts: The most classic ice routes of Grand Teton National Park have melted out for the second year in a row. 8/25/03 - Canadian Mike Doyle capped a superb week at Maple Canyon, Utah, by flashing Millenium (5.14a) on August 22, according to www.8a.nu. 8/26/03 - Nearly halfway through the competition schedule, Alexandre Chabot of France and Muriel Sarkany of Belgium continue to dominate World Cup difficulty (lead) climbing. 8/21/03 - The worst of the European heat wave may have ended, but for Alpine climbers the disastrous summer continues. 8/20/03 - This April, as bombs fell on Baghdad, itinerant Canadian climber Scott Milton was suffering from Shock and Awe (5.14c) on the Aggro Wall at Smith Rock. 8/20/03 - On May 6, Josune Bereziartu, of Spain, climbed one of the world’s hardest boulder-problem traverses, E la Nave Va, at Lindental, Switzerland. 8/19/03 - Realizing a 24-year-old dream, Carlos Buhler and Thaddeus Josephson bagged the Northwest Face of Pucahirca Norte (19,836 feet) in the Cordillera Blanca of Peru. 8/18/03 - Canadian Nels Rosaasen dominated the PCA Summer Showdown bouldering comp, August 16, at The Front gym in Salt Lake City. 8/14/03 - Greg Collins and Hans Johnstone have climbed a new, direct line up the classic North Face of the Grand Teton, creating one of the hardest multi-pitch rock climbs in the range. 8/13/03 - Climbers and spectators gathered in Chamonix from July 9-13th for the lead climbing and bouldering World Cup. 8/13/03 - Jonny Copp and Kelly Cordes climbed three of the biggest faces in Rocky Mountain National Park in less than 24 hours, car-to-car. |
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