Climbing
Hot Flashes News Dozens Reach Top of K2
7/29/04 - A few days shy of the 50th anniversary of K2’s first ascent, more than 40 climbers summited the world’s second-highest peak over three days, ending a two-year drought of successful summits.
 
Fixed Anchor Ban Proposed for Tahquitz Rock
7/27/04 - No studies have ever been made by the Forest Service to determine whether there is any justification or need for the proposed ban. Neither has the Forest Service examined the likely consequences from such a drastic policy change.
 
New 5.12 on Longs Peak
7/26/04 - Roger Briggs and Chip Chace have free-climbed The Invisible Wall, a 1965 Layton Kor aid route on Longs Peak in Colorado.
 
Malcolm Smith Does 5.14+ Traverse
7/26/04 - Scottish strongman Malcolm Smith has completed the old "Big Link" project on the quarried and drilled limestone of Parisella’s Cave in North Wales.
 
U.S. Youth National Team Chosen
7/22/04 - Nearly 300 young climbers competed in the U.S. Youth National Championships, July 9-11 at the Pipeworks gym in Sacramento, California.
 
It's Chabot, Sarkany in Chamonix
7/20/04 - Alex Chabot of France and Muriel Sarkany of Belgium returned to their winning ways at the Chamonix World Cup, July 12-13.
 
New Trial in Wall Death
7/20/04 - A Missouri judge has ordered a new trial in the case of a man charged with involuntary manslaughter after the portable climbing wall he operated malfunctioned and fatally injured a woman lowering from the wall.
 
2004 - Reese Martin Killed Paragliding
7/14/04 - Longtime climber and climbing activist Reese Martin III was killed July 9 in a paragliding accident in Washington State.
 
Women Break Speed Records for El Cap, Half Dome
7/14/04 - During a single week in mid-June, Heidi Wirtz and Vera Schulte-Pelkum smashed the women's-team speed records for climbing Leaning Tower, Half Dome and El Capitan.
 
5.13 in High Sierra
7/13/04 - Peter Croft and Dave Nettle have completed the most difficult rock climb in the High Sierra, a spectacular line on the Indredible Hulk formation, according to a report on www.supertopo.com.
 
Maine Woman Climbs 5.14
7/13/04 - Eliza Sprecher, 26, of Portland, Maine, has redpointed Strict Scrutiny (5.14a) at Rumney, New Hampshire.
 
New Bolts in the Flatirons
7/09/04 - For the first time in 13 years, two new bolted routes will be legally established in the Flatirons of Boulder, Colorado.
 
Sjong, Schneider Free Golden Gate
7/07/04 - Justen Sjong and Steve Schneider free-climbed Golden Gate (5.13b) on El Capitan, making the fourth or fifth ascent of this 41-pitch Huber brothers testpiece.
 
Hubers Smash Zodiac Record
7/06/04 - The Huber brothers, Alexander and Thomas, have climbed El Capitan in less than two hours. During five separate climbs of the 16-pitch Zodiac route on the right side of the Yosemite monolith, the two Germans systematically hacked time off their existing speed record of 2 hours 31 minutes 20 seconds.
 
Davis Frees El Cap in a Day
7/02/04 - Steph Davis became the second woman to free-climb El Capitan in a day when she climbed Free Rider in 22 hours 15 minutes in late May.
 
2004 - Jules Cartwright Killed in Alps
7/01/04 - Jules Cartwright, 29, one of the foremost British alpinists of his generation, was killed in a fall from the Piz Badile in Switzerland, along with his client, Julie Colverd, a 43-year-old Scottish police officer.
 
Gaskins climbs 5.15
7/01/04 - Briton John Gaskins has climbed a short, powerful route on northern England limestone and rated it 9a+ (5.15a).
 
Favorites Dominate World Cup
6/30/04 - Kilian Fischhuber of Austria and Sandrine Levet of France continued to dominate the World Cup bouldering circuit for 2004, winning the third stop June 20 in Fiera di Primiero, Italy.
 
Bouldering Event Draws 500-Plus
6/09/04 - Look out Phoenix, the next big bouldering event may be … La Targasonnic Freeclimb?
 
Vadim Vinokur sends Underground
6/08/04 - This wasn't supposed to be a redpoint trip. But with the World Cup in Imst, Austria over and a few days till his flight back to New York, Vadim Vinokur decided to give Underground one more try.
 
Millet Won't Grade Realization
6/08/04 - Frenchman Sylvain Millet, who made the second ascent of Chris Sharma’s Realization at Ceüse, France, in late May, says he doesn't know how hard it is — the only sure thing, he says, is that it's harder than the 8c+ (5.14c) routes he has climbed at the same crag.
 
Make that Quattro Torri?
6/08/04 - One of the famed Cinque Torri dolomite towers above Cortina d’Ampezzo, Italy, has toppled over due to melt-freeze erosion.
 
Recreation fees at Indian Creek?
6/07/04 - At 11 a.m. on Monday, June 7, at the courthouse in Monticello, Utah, the Western Slope No-Fee Coalition will be making a presentation to San Juan County commissioners regarding the future of the Recreation Fee Demonstration Program in San Juan County, which includes the crack-climbing mecca of Indian Creek.
 
11-year-old climbs 5.14
6/07/04 - The 11-year-old Czech wonder boy Adam Ondra has redpointed Baby Basher (10+/5.14a) at Kochel, the fingery limestone area south of Munich, Germany.
 
Kennedy Northwest Face Completed
6/04/04 - Britons Jon Bracey and Rich Cross have completed the Northwest Face of Mt. Kennedy in the Yukon Territory to the 13,905-foot summit.
 
 
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