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Chamonix Testpiece Gets Free Ascent
1/11/05 - A British pair has made the third ascent, and possible first free ascent, of the decade-old testpiece Omega on France’s Petit Jorasses. 1/07/04 - Michelle Garbert and Barb Clemes, in conjunction with Sam Lightner, have arranged two fund-raisers for the most needy locals of Thailand's Railay Bay, Ao Nang, and PhiPhi Island, whose homes, clothing, boats, livelihoods, relatives and friends were lost in the tsunami. 1/07/05 - A climbers’ group in Vermont has purchased the Bolton Quarry, a popular resource for both ice and rock climbing near Burlington. 1/03/05 - Turning words into action, Will Gadd has repeated what's likely the world’s hardest mixed climb, The Game (M13) at Alberta’s Cineplex crag, without the long heel spurs that have been used extensively on recent mixed testpieces. 1/04/05 - Eleven-year-old Adam Ondra sent 2004 out with a bang by redpointing Mascherina (8c/5.14b) at Grotta dell’Aeronata, a limestone cave near Sperlonga, Italy. 12/30/04 - Sam Lightner is on his way to Thailand and beginning New Year's Eve, or as soon as he arrives, will be making his home there available as a base for parents looking for their kids or other emergency tasks. 12/20/04 - Chris Sharma has made the third ascent of the Fred Nicole boulder problem Esperanza (V14) at Hueco Tanks and been named one of the “Amazing Bodies of the Year” by GQ magazine. 12/17/04 - Swiss climber Didier Berthod, who last year climbed a 5.14a roof crack in Italy, redpointed perhaps the hardest route in Indian Creek, Utah, during a long visit this fall. 12/17/04 - Mike Anderson has freed the classic Lowe Route on Angels Landing in Zion National Park, creating Zion’s most sustained hard free route. 12/14/04 - On December 10 Cicada Jenerik sent Lowrider (V10), the extension to Cholos (V9), at the Happy Boulders in Bishop, California, becoming the first person to “boulder her age” — V10 at age 10. 12/14/04 - The Triple Crown, a three-event bouldering series at some of the Southeast’s best bouldering areas, concluded Dec. 4 with a competition at Little Rock City, outside Chattanooga, Tenn. 12/13/04 - Jean-Christophe Lafaille topped out on Shisha Pangma via the South Face on Dec. 11, a solo ascent without supplementary oxygen that will provide plenty of fodder for debate over the meaning of a “winter ascent.” 12/09/04 - Vadim Vinokur and Emily Harrington won the difficulty comp at the North American Championships in Mexico City over Thanksgiving weekend, and Patrick Cassiday and Alex Johnson were the top speed climbers. 12/08/04 - Scott Semple, Greg Thaczuk, and Eamonn Walsh completed the second ascent of Striving for the Moon (VI WI6) on the East Face of Mount Temple in the Canadian Rockies. 12/07/04 - The U.S. Congress has passed a law that will extend the “Fee Demo” program on public lands for at least a decade, making it likely that $5 daily fees will be charged at hundreds of trailheads on National Forest and BLM lands. 12/07/04 - A new award could provide big bucks to a climber who benefits the mountain world through his or her experiences. 12/02/04 - The Basque superstar Josune Bereziartu has redpointed her second 9a (5.14d), Logical Progression in Joyama, Japan. 11/29/04 - With various partners, John Harlin III completed a lifelong dream to climb a new route on Mont Blanc's storied south face in Italy. 11/29/04 - Remember when a 5.14a onsight was the ultimate tick? Now, less than a decade later, Patxi Usobiaga of Spain has demonstrated just how far elite climbing has progressed, by making his fifth 5.14a onsight in a single year. 11/24/04 - Fifteen-year-old Daniel Woods has sent Circadian Rhythm (V14), a Dave Graham problem in the granite 420's Boulders of Poudre Canyon, Colorado. 11/22/04 - When the pressure was on, Angela Eiter of Austria and Tomas Mrazek of the Czech Republic never flinched in a dramatic conclusion to the 2004 World Cup. 11/19/04 - Stefan Hadfield has broken the world dyno record by leaping 2.7 meters, or nearly 9 feet, from hold to hold. Hadfield made his body-length-and-a-half jump in Auckland, besting the old mark by 10 centimeters. 11/17/04 - The Italian Ermanno Salvaterra has led a team of three up the East Face of Cerro Torre via a new route, his latest conquest in a 20-year affair with Patagonia 11/15/04 - Nearing the end of an up-and-down season in which two young upstarts are threatening to unseat the defending World Cup champions, the final competition of 2004 next weekend promises to be a cliffhanger. The French climber Fred Rouhling, profiled in Climbing #232, has completed his fourth new route rated 5.14d or harder. |
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