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Indian Creek Testpiece
12/17/04 - Swiss climber Didier Berthod, who last year climbed a 5.14a roof crack in Italy, redpointed perhaps the hardest route in Indian Creek, Utah, during a long visit this fall. 12/17/04 - Mike Anderson has freed the classic Lowe Route on Angels Landing in Zion National Park, creating Zion’s most sustained hard free route. 12/14/04 - On December 10 Cicada Jenerik sent Lowrider (V10), the extension to Cholos (V9), at the Happy Boulders in Bishop, California, becoming the first person to “boulder her age” — V10 at age 10. 12/14/04 - The Triple Crown, a three-event bouldering series at some of the Southeast’s best bouldering areas, concluded Dec. 4 with a competition at Little Rock City, outside Chattanooga, Tenn. 12/13/04 - Jean-Christophe Lafaille topped out on Shisha Pangma via the South Face on Dec. 11, a solo ascent without supplementary oxygen that will provide plenty of fodder for debate over the meaning of a “winter ascent.” 12/09/04 - Vadim Vinokur and Emily Harrington won the difficulty comp at the North American Championships in Mexico City over Thanksgiving weekend, and Patrick Cassiday and Alex Johnson were the top speed climbers. 12/08/04 - Scott Semple, Greg Thaczuk, and Eamonn Walsh completed the second ascent of Striving for the Moon (VI WI6) on the East Face of Mount Temple in the Canadian Rockies. 12/07/04 - The U.S. Congress has passed a law that will extend the “Fee Demo” program on public lands for at least a decade, making it likely that $5 daily fees will be charged at hundreds of trailheads on National Forest and BLM lands. 12/07/04 - A new award could provide big bucks to a climber who benefits the mountain world through his or her experiences. 12/02/04 - The Basque superstar Josune Bereziartu has redpointed her second 9a (5.14d), Logical Progression in Joyama, Japan. 11/29/04 - With various partners, John Harlin III completed a lifelong dream to climb a new route on Mont Blanc's storied south face in Italy. 11/29/04 - Remember when a 5.14a onsight was the ultimate tick? Now, less than a decade later, Patxi Usobiaga of Spain has demonstrated just how far elite climbing has progressed, by making his fifth 5.14a onsight in a single year. 11/24/04 - Fifteen-year-old Daniel Woods has sent Circadian Rhythm (V14), a Dave Graham problem in the granite 420's Boulders of Poudre Canyon, Colorado. 11/22/04 - When the pressure was on, Angela Eiter of Austria and Tomas Mrazek of the Czech Republic never flinched in a dramatic conclusion to the 2004 World Cup. 11/19/04 - Stefan Hadfield has broken the world dyno record by leaping 2.7 meters, or nearly 9 feet, from hold to hold. Hadfield made his body-length-and-a-half jump in Auckland, besting the old mark by 10 centimeters. 11/17/04 - The Italian Ermanno Salvaterra has led a team of three up the East Face of Cerro Torre via a new route, his latest conquest in a 20-year affair with Patagonia 11/15/04 - Nearing the end of an up-and-down season in which two young upstarts are threatening to unseat the defending World Cup champions, the final competition of 2004 next weekend promises to be a cliffhanger. The French climber Fred Rouhling, profiled in Climbing #232, has completed his fourth new route rated 5.14d or harder. 11/09/04 - Denali National Park has raised the special-use fee for climbers on Mount McKinley and Mount Foraker to $200, effective for the 2005 season. 11/08/04 - A long-forgotten Polish film made in 1967 won the grand prize at the Banff Mountain Film Festival. Odwrót (“Retreat”) recreates an anonymous climber’s epic solo descent after a mountaineering accident. 11/05/04 - A survival story, a history of North American climbing, and an ice-climbing instruction manual were among the prize winners announced Nov. 4 at the 11th annual Banff Mountain Book Festival. 11/3/04 - The woman who killed climber Jack Mileski in 1997 has been convicted of first-degree murder and sentenced to life in prison. 11/02/03 - With only two World Cup competitions remaining in the 2004 season, Belgium’s Muriel Sarkany has regained the lead in the overall standings with a superb victory in Valence, France. 11/01/04 - Beth Rodden has made the first free ascent of an old aid pitch at Smith Rock, Oregon, and rated it 5.14b. 11/01/04 - Britons Nick Bullock and Nick Carter made the first ascent of the 5,250-foot Northwest Face of Nepal's Tengkang Poche (21,325 feet) in a three-day, alpine-style roundtrip. |
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