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New Route in Kichatnas
6/04/04 - It might be overstating the case to say Twid Turner has an “enviable” record in Alaska’s Kichatna Spires, given the fact that the Kichatnas’ notoriously nasty weather isn’t for everyone. 6/01/04 - Alex Chabot of France regained his customary position atop the World Cup winners’ podium at Imst, Austria, while local heroines Angela Eiter and Bettina Schöpf finished one-two among the women. 6/01/04 - After more than two months of punishing effort, a Russian expedition has completed the direct North Face of Mt. Everest. 5/26/04 - Russian climbers Dmitry Pavlenko and Alexander Ruchkin reached the summit of Jannu (7,710 meters) today via the north face, completing one of the most difficult high-altitude big walls ever attempted. 5/25/04 - Tommy Caldwell has freed the Dihedral Wall on El Capitan, a strong candidate for the hardest big-wall free climb in the world. Caldwell redpointed the 25-pitch route over four days in mid-May. 5/24/04 - Jared Ogden and Ryan Nelson have made a post-modern ascent of the Hallucinogen Wall in the Black Canyon of the Gunnison, freeing 13 of the 14 pitches in standard big-wall free-climbing style and dry tooling one super-thin face high on the wall. 5/24/04 - Jean-Christophe Lafaille soloed a new route on the north side of Makalu 2 (7,650 meters), but was unable to continue to the 8,481-meter main summit of Makalu. 5/21/04 - This May rangers at the Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park upgraded the tyrolean traverse that spans the Gunnison River between the North and the South Chasm View walls. 5/21/04 - Twin brothers Mike and Mark Anderson, 27, free climbed all 37 pitches of Free Rider (5.12+) on lead or seconding, and Mike Anderson freed every pitch first time without falling. 5/20/04 - In a season in which more than 100 climbers already have summited Mt. Everest by its normal routes, two large, well-orchestrated Russian teams are within striking range of the top on much more daunting Himalayan challenges: the north face of Jannu (7,710 meters) and the direct north face of Everest (8,848 meters). 5/18/04 - Californian Michael Reardon free soloed more than 280 routes at Joshua Tree over 19 hours in late April. 5/17/04 - Japan’s Dai Koyamada has completed a massive link-up at the Hollow Mountain Cave in the Grampians of Australia and rated it 8c (V16). 5/17/04 - Angela Payne took her second Professional Climbers Association (PCA) victory of the season, and David Hume won the first PCA comp he entered all year at the Season III Championships in Boulder, Colorado. 5/14/04 - According to several news sources, Swiss on-sight phenom Elie Chevieux is NOT one of the two Europeans that were stoned to death in Kabul, Afghanistan. 5/11/04 - The Swiss climber Elie Chevieux was found murdered in Kabul, Afghanistan, on May 9. Chevieux, 31, winner and finalist in many international climbing competitions from 1991 to 1997, was brutally murdered with stones in a public park, along with an unidentified friend. 5/10/04 - Francois Nicole has finished an old project at St. Loup, Switzerland, and graded it 9a/9a+ (5.14d/5.15a), according to www.8a.nu. 5/07/04 - Steph Davis has free-climbed El Capitan by the route Free Rider, a variation to the Salathé Wall. Davis is the third woman to free El Cap, and only the second to lead every pitch of a free route. 5/7/04 - Alexander Huber has soloed a 70-foot 8b+ (5.14a) at his favorite crag, Schleierwasserfall in Austria. 5/4/04 - An international team has climbed the north wall of Baruntse in the Khumbu region of Nepal, an imposing face that has been eyeballed by thousands of trekkers from the summit of Island Peak. 5/4/04 - Climbing between storms, Shawn Huisman and Sean Isaac managed to complete two new ice and mixed routes during a short trip to Alaska — their first visit to the Alaska Range. 4/30/04 - An American-Chilean team completed the first ascent of striking Avellano Tower, in what was probably the first climbing expedition to the Avellano Valley of northern Patagonia. 4/29/04 - Now in its 14th year, the Shipton/Tilman Grant awards up to $30,000 annually to adventurers planning small expeditions that reflect the philosophies of the late explorers Eric Shipton (b. 1907) and H.W. "Bill" Tilman (b. 1897). 4/29/04 - Patrick Berhault, one of the most visionary and accomplished climbers of recent decades, died in a fall from the Dom, the highest peak in Switzerland, three-quarters of the way through his unprecedented bid to climb all of the 4,000-meter peaks of the Alps non-stop by foot and ski. 4/27/04 - Adam Stack and Justen Sjong have completed a traditional free ascent of the Salathé Wall (5.13b) on El Capitan, swinging leads and either leading or following every pitch all free. 4/27/04 - Canadian Sonnie Trotter has made an all-traditional redpoint of the East Face (5.13d) of the Monkey Face at Smith Rock, placing all of his pro on the lead. |
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