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Asher Shines in World Cup
10/29/04 - American Lizzy Asher has proved she can compete on a world level in lead climbing as well as in bouldering.
Jail Time for Wall Operator
10/22/04 - Marcus Floyd, the Missouri man charged with involuntary manslaughter after his portable climbing wall failed and a woman was killed, pled guilty to a lesser charge and will serve a short jail sentence.
5.14 Crack Climbed in Québec
10/21/04 - One of the hardest crack climbs in North America has been pinkpointed after three years of attempts by the Québecois Jean-Francois “Jeff” Beaulieu.
Nice Ice on Grand’s North Face
10/20/04 - Stephen Koch and Mark Newcomb braved thin ice and a midday storm to snag a new ice line on the North Face of the Grand Teton.
9-Pitch Speed Climbing
10/15/04 - A nine-pitch, fully bolted, 5.10a climb in Colorado’s Royal Gorge was the scene of a high-stakes big-wall sport-climbing race in the 2004 Go Fast Games.
New Route on Indian Giant
10/14/04 - The Anglo-American team of Ian Parnell and John Varco made the first ascent of the Northwest Face of 22,674-foot Saf Minal in the Garhwal Himalaya of India.
New Routes in Greenland
10/14/04 - A Swiss-German expedition to the southern tip of Greenland in late summer yielded nine new routes, almost all of them free, on beautiful granite walls.
Rands Climbs E8 in Britain
10/13/04 - American Lisa Rands has climbed End of the Affair (E8 6c) at Curbar Edge in England, perhaps the boldest single-pitch rock climb yet by a woman.
V16 Repeated
10/07/04 - French climber Julien Nadiras has repeated Tonino ’78, the V16 boulder problem established in January by Mauro Calibani.
Yuji Onsights 5.14b
10/07/04 - Yuji Hirayama has onsighted the route White Zombie (5.14b) at Baltzola in Spain’s Basque country.
Vinokur 12th in China
10/4/04 - American Vadim Vinokur earned 12th place at a World Cup climbing comp in Shanghai, China, for his best finish so far this season. Vinokur is now ranked 15th in the 2004 season.
French Take Bouldering Crowns
10/01/04 - Sandrine Levet and Daniel Du Lac of France are the 2004 bouldering World Cup champions. Levet closed out her season in style, taking the final World Cup comp of the year in steamy heat in Houzou, China.
Three Black Routes in a Day
9/31/04 - Undeterred by autumn’s shorter days, Thad Friday and Josh Wharton climbed three full-length routes in the Black Canyon of the Gunnison in Colorado in under 21 hours.
Aconcagua by Bike, Boat and Foot
9/28/04 - Erden Eruc is about to leave Seattle to climb Aconcagua, but he won’t reach the 22,841-foot summit for over a year.
2004 - Pete Schoening Dies
9/23/04 - Pete Schoening, one of the greatest climbers from the golden age of expeditionary mountaineering in the 1950s, died this week. He was 77.
Quick Success in Patagonia
9/22/04 - Sean Isaac and Will Mayo made a winter ascent of Guillaumet in the Fitz Roy region of Patagonia, notable mainly for the speed of the outing.
Vinokur, Pringle in World Cup
9/22/04 - Perennial contender Vadim Vinokur from New York and first-time World Cup competitor Ethan Pringle from California both made strong showings at the Marbella, Spain, stop on the circuit September 18-19.
Two 5.14 Flashes in a Day
9/21/04 - Proving you don’t have to be a teenager to remain at the top of the sport, Serik Kazbekov, 34, had an amazing day at Covolo, Italy, last week.
Everest Speed Record Upheld
9/17/04 - The Nepalese government has endorsed a new speed record for climbing Mount Everest’s 11,335-vertical-foot South Col route from basecamp: 8 hours 10 minutes, set by Pemba Dorjee Sherpa on May 21.
New Route in Rockies
9/17/04 - Dave Marra, Dana Ruddy, and Tom Schnugg pioneered the Northwest Face of Mount Belanger in the Canadian Rockies this summer, via a moderately difficult 2,000-foot ice chute.
Emerging Superstar?
9/15/04 - Last weekend’s World Youth Championship victory for Charlotte Durif, who just turned 14 in mid-August, came as no surprise to those who have witnessed the young Frenchwoman’s meteoric rise through the grades.
World Youth Championships
9/14/04 - Sean McColl of Canada won his third world title in difficulty, Daniel Woods of Colorado finished third in his age category, and American Alex Johnson won the speed-climbing championship at the World Youth Championships in Scotland.
Alex Lowe Peak?
9/07/04 - An outdoor writer in Bozeman, Mont., has launched an effort to name a local peak after the late Alex Lowe.
Chabot, Eiter Win at Arco
9/07/04 - Alexander Chabot of France and Angela Eiter of Austria won the 18th annual RockMaster competition in Arco, Italy, the most prestigious invitational comp in the world.
Kongur Sees Rare Ascents
9/01/04 - Three separate Russian expeditions have climbed 25,325-foot Kongur, making the probable third, fourth, and fifth ascents of the highest peak in the Chinese Pamirs.
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