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Changing of the Guard at World Cups?
10/06/03 - New faces won the first World Cup of the fall in the northern Italian ski resort of Aprica. 10/03/03 - Juanito Oiarzabal soloed to the top of Cho Oyu on September 23, marking his 19th 8,000-meter summit. 10/02/03 - Didier Berthod, a 22-year-old Swiss climber, has redpointed a 12-meter roof crack on the granite of Orco Valley, Italy, and graded it 5.14. 10/1/03 - The Alex Lowe Charitable Foundation is looking for new or used gear for its Sherpa Climbing School Project in the Khumbu region of the Himalaya, set to hold its first course in February 2004. 9/29/03 - A teenager from Austria upset the defending female champions at the 17th annual Arco Rockmaster in Italy, the most prestigious invitational competition in the world. 9/26/03 - Rumors of a possible 5.15 by Japanese star Yuji Hirayama have swirled around the internet in recent days. Here are the facts from Hirayama himself. 9/25/03 - Boulder, CO - Over one hundred and twenty people showed up for the 3rd Annual Flagstaff TRASH BASH on Wednesday, October the 17th, to pickup a ton of trash in the freezing rain. 9/25/03 - It was bound to come to this: According to www.planetfear.com, Scott Muir has established one of the world’s hardest mixed-climbing routes — in the summer. 9/24/03 - The U.S. and Canadian teams put three young climbers on the podium at the Youth World Championships in Veliko Tarnovo, Bulgaria, last weekend. 9/22/03 - Hans Florine has smashed the record for climbing California’s 14,000-foot peaks. Starting in the wee hours of September 17, Florine bagged eight Sierra 14’ers in the next 24 hours. 9/19/03 - After several days of preparation, Mauro “Bubu” Bole redpointed the 11-pitch Camillotto Pellesier on Italy’s Cima Grande di Lavaredo, finding three pitches of 5.13 (up to 5.13d), two pitches of 5.12, and four pitches of 5.11. 9/17/03 - Pat Goodman and Hank Jones climbed the first all-free route in the Vampire Spires, a remote area of granite towers about 25 miles from the Cirque of the Unclimbables in Canada’s Northwest Territories. 9/16/03 - Stephen Koch and Jimmy Chin, along with their two Sherpa companions, turned back at 6,800 meters in waist-deep snow on Mt. Everest’s North Face. 9/15/03 - Climber Joe Hestick broke his hip and several ribs in a fall while descending to the peak’s lower saddle with his wife Beth. 9/15/03 - Salavat Rakhmetov of Russia proved once again that, at 35 years old, he still keeps up with the youngsters in World Cup bouldering. 9/10/03 - Jared McMillen of Las Vegas redpointed his first 5.14b, Legend of the Overfiend at Mt. Charleston, on September 8. 9/09/03 - Matt Samet and Tim Kemple made the probable second and third ascents, back-to-back, of the late Derek Hersey’s run-out masterpiece To RP or Not to Be (5.12a X) in Eldorado Canyon, Colorado. 9/08/03 - Alex Chabot of France concluded one of the best weeks of sport climbing ever by climbing three solid 5.14s in one day. 9/05/03 - A strong group of British climbers completed an extremely successful free-climbing expedition to Torssuagatoq Sound in southern Greenland this summer. 9/03/03 - Alexander and Thomas Huber have created two more alpine testpieces on the limestone North Face of the Feuerhorn in the Bavarian Alps. 9/02/03 - The El Capitan testpiece El Niño got its first American free ascent (and fourth overall), when Steve Schneider, Brian Cork and Heather Baer redpointed the climb this summer. 9/02/03 - French superstar Alexandre Chabot, the reigning World Cup sport climbing champion, has "amnesia onsighted" a 5.14b (8c). 8/29/03 - Bad news for alpine-ice enthusiasts: The most classic ice routes of Grand Teton National Park have melted out for the second year in a row. 8/25/03 - Canadian Mike Doyle capped a superb week at Maple Canyon, Utah, by flashing Millenium (5.14a) on August 22, according to www.8a.nu. 8/26/03 - Nearly halfway through the competition schedule, Alexandre Chabot of France and Muriel Sarkany of Belgium continue to dominate World Cup difficulty (lead) climbing. |
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