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Everest Speed Record Upheld
9/17/04 - The Nepalese government has endorsed a new speed record for climbing Mount Everest’s 11,335-vertical-foot South Col route from basecamp: 8 hours 10 minutes, set by Pemba Dorjee Sherpa on May 21. 9/17/04 - Dave Marra, Dana Ruddy, and Tom Schnugg pioneered the Northwest Face of Mount Belanger in the Canadian Rockies this summer, via a moderately difficult 2,000-foot ice chute. 9/15/04 - Last weekend’s World Youth Championship victory for Charlotte Durif, who just turned 14 in mid-August, came as no surprise to those who have witnessed the young Frenchwoman’s meteoric rise through the grades. 9/14/04 - Sean McColl of Canada won his third world title in difficulty, Daniel Woods of Colorado finished third in his age category, and American Alex Johnson won the speed-climbing championship at the World Youth Championships in Scotland. 9/07/04 - An outdoor writer in Bozeman, Mont., has launched an effort to name a local peak after the late Alex Lowe. 9/07/04 - Alexander Chabot of France and Angela Eiter of Austria won the 18th annual RockMaster competition in Arco, Italy, the most prestigious invitational comp in the world. 9/01/04 - Three separate Russian expeditions have climbed 25,325-foot Kongur, making the probable third, fourth, and fifth ascents of the highest peak in the Chinese Pamirs. 8/31/04 - A lengthy American-Slovenian expedition to Pakistan this summer made a slew of first ascents and impressive attempts. 8/25/04 - American Lizzy Asher made the final of a bouldering World Cup last weekend in Bardonecchia, Italy, finishing seventh in a field that included most of the world’s strongest bouldering competitors. 8/26/04 - Nathan Martin and Jared Ogden completed a major new route in southern Greenland’s Tasermiut Fjord in superb style, establishing the 2,000-foot-plus wall route in a single day. 8/24/04 - Americans Kelly Cordes and Josh Wharton have made a bold, alpine-style first ascent of the enormous Southwest Ridge of Great Trango Tower (20,617 feet) in Pakistan. 8/23/04 - The four-man team of Justen Sjong, Adam Stack, Tim Kemple, and Max Hanft made a rare visit to the western side of Alaska’s Arrigetch Mountains and came away with two new routes. 8/20/04 - The Basque brothers Iker and Eneko Pou have freed Bravo Les Filles, a 2,000-foot granite route in Madagascar established in 1999 by an all-female team led by Lynn Hill. 8/17/04 - Two more teams have completed ascents of K2, including the second ascent of the “Magic Line,” K2’s steep and technical South-Southwest Pillar. 8/17/04 - Climbers For Kerry, a Seattle-based group supporting presidential hopeful John Kerry, is launching an unusual PR stunt — a three-week effort to “take back” North America. 8/16/04 - Acclimatized by many weeks on Broad Peak and K2, Chad Kellogg broke his own record for speed climbing Mt. Rainier on August 9. 8/13/04 - Engineers at Stanford University and NASA’s Jet Propulsion Laboratory have developed a spiderlike robot that can ascend an artificial climbing wall. 8/11/04 - The number of confirmed dead following an avalanche on 22,998-foot Khan Tengri in Kyrgyzstan has risen to 11. 8/09/04 - The unsigned Finding of No Significant Impact (FONSI) and the EA #UT – 090-00-47 for the Indian Creek Corridor Plan and Environmental Assessment are available for public review and comment for 30 days beginning on August 2, 2004. 8/09/04 - Four members of a Japanese expedition and two Sherpa climbers summited K2 via the Abruzzi Spur on Saturday, Aug. 7, and returned to basecamp safely late Sunday evening. 8/06/04 - At least six climbers are dead on 22,998-foot Khan Tengri in Kyrgyzstan after an ice avalanche smashed into a large group around 6 a.m. on Aug. 5. 8/05/04 - The UIAA, the international federation of alpine clubs, has suspended certification of ropes under its “sharp edge” test, after problems surfaced at its approved testing laboratories. 8/02/04 - Could Olga Bibik give defending champion Sandrine Levet a serious run for the 2004 bouldering World Cup title? It’s starting to look that way. 7/30/04 - Patxi Usobiaga of Spain has made the third ascent of Realization, the 2001 Chris Sharma route at Céüse, France, that may be 5.15a. 7/29/04 - A few days shy of the 50th anniversary of K2’s first ascent, more than 40 climbers summited the world’s second-highest peak over three days, ending a two-year drought of successful summits. |
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