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14-year-old nabs second 5.14
10/27/03 - In a stellar couple of days of climbing at Rumney, New Hampshire, 14-year-old Daniel Woods climbed his second 5.14 and flashed his first 5.13. 10/23/03 - The initial comment period for the Bureau of Land Management's Environmental Assessment of the Indian Creek, Utah, corridor is about to end. 10/22/03 - Sonnie Trotter has completed a much-discussed line on the limestone cliffs of Lions Head, Ontario, that may be 5.14c or harder. 10/21/03 - American Lisa Rands has climbed an E7 on British gritstone — only the second woman ever to lead a grit route of this grade, which equates to 5.13 with poor protection. 10/20/03 - Barely missing on his third attempt to onsight an El Cap route, Yuji Hirayama managed a two-fall free ascent of El Niño (30 pitches, 5.13c) on the right side of El Capitan. 10/17/03 - The Huber brothers have free-climbed the Zodiac route on El Capitan, according to reports on several European web sites.  Bereziartu goes steep
Near Bilbao in the Basque Country of northern Spain, Josune Bereziartu made the third ascent of Na-Nai, given 8c+ (5.14c)  Andalusia Dreamin'
Bernabé Fernández claimed the first ascent of Chilam-Balam near Málaga, Spain, proposing the grade of 9b+ (5.15c) 10/14/03 - In late summer, exploratory climber Mike Libecki returned to the extremely remote fjord in southeastern Greenland in which he soloed an enormous rock wall last year. 10/14/03 - For the first time in memory, two American men are within reach of the podium at the World Cup competition level. 10/09/03 - Juanito Oiarzabal returned to the top of Cho Oyu for the second time in 11 days, giving the Basque climber his 20th 8,000-meter summit, more than any other man.  McClure Storms Rainshadow
The wild black-streaked rock of Malham Cove has long been one of Britain’s proving grounds for hard sport climbing, as evidenced most recently by Steve McClure’s Rainshadow. 10/06/03 - Yuji Hirayama made a two-day third ascent of Golden Gate, a 41-pitch 5.13b established by the Huber brothers in 2000. 10/06/03 - New faces won the first World Cup of the fall in the northern Italian ski resort of Aprica. 10/03/03 - Juanito Oiarzabal soloed to the top of Cho Oyu on September 23, marking his 19th 8,000-meter summit. 10/02/03 - Didier Berthod, a 22-year-old Swiss climber, has redpointed a 12-meter roof crack on the granite of Orco Valley, Italy, and graded it 5.14. 10/1/03 - The Alex Lowe Charitable Foundation is looking for new or used gear for its Sherpa Climbing School Project in the Khumbu region of the Himalaya, set to hold its first course in February 2004. 9/29/03 - A teenager from Austria upset the defending female champions at the 17th annual Arco Rockmaster in Italy, the most prestigious invitational competition in the world. 9/26/03 - Rumors of a possible 5.15 by Japanese star Yuji Hirayama have swirled around the internet in recent days. Here are the facts from Hirayama himself. 9/25/03 - Boulder, CO - Over one hundred and twenty people showed up for the 3rd Annual Flagstaff TRASH BASH on Wednesday, October the 17th, to pickup a ton of trash in the freezing rain. 9/25/03 - It was bound to come to this: According to www.planetfear.com, Scott Muir has established one of the world’s hardest mixed-climbing routes — in the summer. 9/24/03 - The U.S. and Canadian teams put three young climbers on the podium at the Youth World Championships in Veliko Tarnovo, Bulgaria, last weekend. 9/22/03 - Hans Florine has smashed the record for climbing California’s 14,000-foot peaks. Starting in the wee hours of September 17, Florine bagged eight Sierra 14’ers in the next 24 hours. 9/19/03 - After several days of preparation, Mauro “Bubu” Bole redpointed the 11-pitch Camillotto Pellesier on Italy’s Cima Grande di Lavaredo, finding three pitches of 5.13 (up to 5.13d), two pitches of 5.12, and four pitches of 5.11. 9/17/03 - Pat Goodman and Hank Jones climbed the first all-free route in the Vampire Spires, a remote area of granite towers about 25 miles from the Cirque of the Unclimbables in Canada’s Northwest Territories. |
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