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Possible M12 Climbed in Maine
4/16/09 - In late March, Josh Hurst redpointed a mixed route in western Maine that could be as hard as M12. (UPDATED - 5/11/09) 4/15/09 - Chris Sharma is making quick work of many of China’s hardest sport climbs during the final stop of an Asian tour that included Japan and Korea. 4/15/09 - Good snow and consistent temperatures made for incredible ice climbing conditions near Cody, Wyoming this year. 4/14/09 - Danilo Pereyra of Argentina has become the first Latin American climber to send the grade of 9a or 5.14d. 4/10/09 - On March 8-15, 2009, the Norwegian Alpine Club invited nearly forty climbers from worldwide to come to Lofoten, Norway, for a come-as-you-are climbing meet. 4/10/09 - A crew of strong climbers based out of St. George, Utah, has been sending hard at the Wailing Wall. 4/08/09 - Bernd Zangerl has completed the second ascent of Dave Graham’s From Dirt Grows the Flowers (8C/V15) at Chronico, Switzerland, on March 17. 4/07/09 - Walter Bonatti, perhaps the premier alpinist of the 1950s and early 1960s, will be honored with the first Piolet d’Or for lifetime achievement. 4/06/09 - Jason Haas and Rob Pizem have free-climbed every pitch of West Side Story on 800-foot Cottontail tower in Utah’s Fisher Towers. (Updated - 5/14/09) 4/03/09 - Two North American teams have completed routes on the striking granite towers of the Piritas Valley of Argentina, a little-explored and remote drainage above the upper Rio Turbio, near the Argentina-Chile border. 4/03/09 - In the first round of the Climbing Grants Preservation program for 2009, the Access Fund awarded over $20,000 to support local climbing activism and conservation of the climbing environment. 3/30/09 - Rock climbers recently noticed canyon wrens nesting at a popular climbing site at Hueco Tanks State Park and Historic Site near El Paso, Texas. 3/27/09 - German climber Felix Berg has set two possible speed records on Africa’s Mount Kenya. 3/25/09 - Best known for his bouldering — he was national champion in 2008 — Paul Robinson has completed the second ascent of Psychedelic (5.14c/d), eight years after Dave Graham first climbed the route. 3/20/09 - Matt Segal climbed a new 5.13+ R/X trad line in the Kloof Alcove in Eldorado Canyon, Colorado. And, near St. George, Utah, Joe Kinder redpointed an ultra-steep Todd Perkins project at the Hurricave. 3/16/09 - 37-year-old Toni Lamprecht of Munich, Germany, has climbed a new limestone boulder problem at the cliff Altantiswand in Kochel, Germany, that he has graded 8C+, or roughly V16. 3/12/09 - Chris Sharma continues to work several 5.15 projects in Catalunya, Spain, and photographer Pete O’Donovan has posted a mini-album of photos from these attempts at 8a.nu. 3/10/09 - Six climbs from 2008, including one by an American, have been nominated for the 17th Piolets d’Or — the “golden ice axes” — which will be presented during a four-day festival at the foot of Mont Blanc in April. 3/05/09 - Separate teams of Norwegian, German, and Swiss climbers seized the day in unusually cold temperatures during February and established gigantic new ice routes on Norwegian cliffs the size of Yosemite Valley’s walls. (Updated - 3/11/09) 3/02/09 - Ian Austin and Josh Hurst have completed Luna Kahuna (180m, M8 5.11 NEI5+), a five-pitch mixed route above Lake Willoughby in Vermont. 2/27/09 - Nalle Hukkataival, 22, of Helsinki, Finland, has been making quick work of many boulder problems at Hueco Tanks, Texas, including the first flash of Fred Nicole's classic Full Monty (V12). 2/27/09 - Jacinda “JC” Hunter has completed the first female ascent of Breaking the Law (5.14b) at the Black and Tan area southwest of St. George, Utah. 2/24/09 - Will Gadd and EJ Plimley have climbed 1,000-foot Hunlen Falls in Tweedsmuir Provincial Park, east of Bella Coola, British Columbia, the first ascent of Canada’s third-highest waterfall. 2/23/09 - After a three-season effort, a team of Canadians has completed a major new mixed route in Alberta with a long crux pitch that could be as hard as M12. 2/23/09 - Chris Sharma has completed the first ascent of a 9a+ (5.15a) roof project at Margalef in Spain. |
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