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DiGiulian Sends Lucifer (5.14c) at the Red
3/24/11 - Sasha DiGiulian redpointed Lucifer today at the Purgatory, Red River Gorge, making the route's first female ascent. 3/24/11 - Daniel Woods has repeated James Litz's Warpath (V14/15?) in Castle Rock, Idaho. 3/24/11 - Paul Robinson made the second ascent of Angama (V15) yesterday, a Dai Koyamada problem in Fontainebleau. 3/24/11 - Sasha DiGiulian continues her successful stay at the Red River Gorge with an onsight of Last of the Bohicans (5.13d), which sits left of Omaha Beach (5.14a) in the Madness Cave at The Motherlode. 3/23/11 - Ryan Johnson and Jason Nelson climbed several big, beautiful new ice routes in an area south of Juneau believed to have been previously unvisited by ice climbers. 3/22/11 - Sasha DiGiulian onsighted Omaha Beach (5.14a) this morning at the Madness Cave at the Red. 3/18/11 - No Wyoming ice climber in recent years have been as prolific at new routing as Cody-based Aaron Mulkey, and this winter was no exception. 3/15/11 - Three Americans are among the climbers whose ascents have been nominated for the Piolet d'Or, the annual prize celebrating high-level alpinism and traditional climbing. 3/14/11 - News link: Still on a tear through Spain's hardest sport climbs, Adam Ondra opened Obrint el Sistema in Santa Ana, Spain, on Sunday, suggesting 5.15a for the route. 3/14/11 - This weekend, Carlo Traversi made the second ascent of Daniel Woods' The Game in Boulder Canyon—the problem made famous for its suggested V16 rating in February 2010. 3/10/11 - Hueco saw another roof problem go up yesterday when Daniel Woods put up The House of Doom, suggesting V13, on the East Spur. 3/9/11 - Seizing the day after a March downpour followed by single-digit lows, Kevin Mahoney and Elliot Gaddy climbed The Ghost on Cannon Cliff in New Hampshire as a pure ice route—likely the first time this has been done, as well as the first free ascent of the route. 3/8/11 - Paul Robinson has finally closed the book on The Story of Two Worlds (V15), a Dave Graham problem on the Dreamtime boulder in Cresciano, Switzerland. 3/3/11 - The 109-year-old American Alpine Club held its annual meeting and benefit dinner in Seattle last weekend, and along with the usual awards and presentations, the club announced sweeping changes to its direction for the coming years. 2/25/11 - Three teams of climbers recently completed impressive new free routes and linkups on peaks in southern Patagonia. 2/24/11 - News link: During a prolonged spell of high pressure in the Alps, many significant ascents were completed on the range's greatest faces. 2/23/11 - Finnish powerhouse Nalle Hukkataival has been crushing stateside, spending about three weeks in Bishop, California. 2/23/11 - Just a week after ABS 12 National Championships, ABS 12 Youth Nationals transpired in the same warehouse in Boulder, Colorado. 2/23/11 - The American Alpine Club has announced its 2011 grant recipients for both the McNeill-Nott Award and the Lyman Spitzer Cutting Edge Award. 2/17/11 - Adam Ondra has climbed a potential 5.15b, La Capella, in Siurana, Spain. 2/17/11 - Enzo Oddo, a 15-year-old French crusher, has repeated Kevin Jorgeson's Ambrosia (V11), making the fourth ascent of the 45-foot-tall highball/free solo (after Jorgeson, Alex Honnold, and Isaac Caldiero). 2/16/11 - Teams from around the world took advantage of recent warm and stable weather in southern Patagonia, establishing a plethora of new routes and first free ascents between February 7 and 13. 2/14/11 - Hundreds of spectators, extensive lighting and audio systems, a brand-spankin’-new climbing wall, and 15 finalists filled the warehouse in Boulder where the ABS 12 National Championships were held Saturday night—the first time ABS Nationals has not taken place in a climbing gym. 2/9/11 - As weather seemed to deteriorate everywhere, Paul Robinson took advantage of a good weather window in Fontainebleau, France, and repeated Sebastien Frigault's 2003 Trip Hop (V15). 2/2/11 - Simone Moro, Cory Richards, and Denis Urubko summited Gasherbrum II (8,035m/26,362') in Pakistan, the thirteenth-highest mountain in the world, reaching the top around 11:30 a.m. local time today. |
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