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Endangered Species: To the Top
2/1/11 - Early in the morning of January 30, New Hampshire climbers Kevin Mahoney and Freddie Wilkinson drove across two states to the Adirondacks in New York and did the second ascent of Endangered Species (NEI5+ M6+ R) at Poke-O-Moonshine. 1/31/11 - This weekend, two V-hard, long roof problems went up more than 1,000 miles apart. 1/31/11 - On January 20, Brit Tom Bolger climbed Edu Marin's Ciudad de Dios (5.14d/5.15a) in Santa Linya, Spain. 1/28/11 - News link: Today in Fontainebleau, Lucas Ménégatti bagged the second ascent of The Big Island, a V15 extension to Dave Graham's The Island (V14), put up by Vincent Pochon in early 2010. 1/28/11 - The National Park Service has proposed a new policy for bolting in wilderness areas that could have significant impacts on climbers establishing new routes or replacing fixed anchors. 1/27/11- Tim Emmett and Will Gadd have added four short pitches to the wild overhanging ice cave behind Helmcken Falls in British Columbia, creating a 250-foot line to the lip of the cave. 1/24/11 - Austrian climber David Lama is back in El Chalten, Argentina, intent on free-climbing the southeast ridge ("Compressor Route") of Cerro Torre. 1/18/11 - In 1996, Jeff Lowe and Ed Palen scratched up the first ascent of Gorillas in the Mist, a 500-foot thin-ice testpiece at Poke-O-Moonshine in the Adirondacks. 1/14/11 - On the first day of January, Americans Neil Kauffman and Jim Toman climbed a new route on Cerro Pollone in Argentinean Patagonia and, in the process, completed the first ascent of Cerro Pollone East. 1/13/11 - News link: The 2011 Ice Climbing World Cup kicked off last weekend in Cheongsong, Korea. 1/8/11 - Colin Haley, Jens Holsten, and Mikey Schaefer teamed up on December 28 to climb a new route on the east side of Aguja Mermoz in Argentinean Patagonia. 1/3/11 - News link: Cody Roth managed the first repeat of Italy's Maurizio "Manolo" Zanolla route, Malvasya, at Dvigrad in Croatia that was bolted in 1987 and freed in 1988. 1/3/11 - Hueco Tanks, Texas, saw a slew of hard ascents in December, including a new V14 by Daniel Woods. Updated 1/4/11 - After an impressive run of hard ascents in Switzerland, Paul Robinson spent his holiday taking down more boulders in Fontainebleau, France. 12/21/10 - Four French climbers have done the first ascent of Lunag II near the Nepal-Tibet border by a long mixed route. 12/20/10 - News link: Just as Ethan Pringle wrapped up a Chris Sharma–equipped route in China, Sharma himself opened a new 5.15a in Oliana, Spain, called Power Inverter. 12/20/10 - After three days of attempts, Ethan Pringle has managed the first ascent of Spicy Dumpling (5.14d) in Yangshuo, China. 12/20/10 - News link: Joel Kauffman and Jared Vilhauer have climbed a beautiful ice runnel on the southwest face of Lobuje East (6,119m/20,075') in Nepal's Khumbu Himal. 12/13/10 - Joe Kinder finished a project last week in the Virgin River Gorge's Fossil Cave in Arizona, a 5.14b he calls Centerfold. 12/13/10 - News link: Paul Robinson is showing no signs of slowing down in Switzerland: On Sunday, he climbed From Dirt Grows the Flowers (V15) in Chironico for a likely fifth ascent. 12/9/10 - 2010 has been a successful year for Ethan Pringle. 12/8/10 - Canadian Jean-Pierre "Peewee" Ouellet has climbed several of the United States' hardest trad routes during a six-week road trip this fall, and he's very close to redpointing a fourth. 12/7/10 - Two more 5.14 ascents have gone down recently, by two females on two continents. 12/7/10 - Germans Stefan Glowacz and Holger Heuber have climbed a new line on the La Proa wall at the Roraima Tepuis in Venezuela: Behind the Rainbow (5.13d, 16 pitches). 12/3/10 - News link: Paul Robinson has made the second ascent of Nalle Hukkataival's Ninja Skills (V14) in Sobrio, Switzerland. |
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