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Americans Rampage on British Grit
Kevin Jorgeson makes the key one-handed move on The Groove, one of many gritstone testpieces he repeated this fall. © Cooper Roberts / Big UP Productions
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News Link: Americans Alex Honnold and Kevin Jorgeson have astonished British climbers with rapid repeats of some of the testiest routes on “God’s own rock,” the English gritstone. Honnold, a noted free-soloist, and Jorgeson, a noted highball boulderer, have applied bold tactics to numerous run-out gritstone routes and sparked a fresh debate on British grading. The repeats include:
- The New Statesman (E8 7a, Jorgeson)
- The Parthian Shot (E9 6c, Jorgeson, first ground-up E9 ascent)
- The Promise (E10 7a, Jorgeson and Honnold, second and third ascents)
- Gaia (E8 6c, Honnold flash, Jorgeson and Mat Segal headpoints)
- Meshuga (E9 6c, solos by Honnold and Jorgeson)
- The Groove (E10 7b, Jorgeson, second ascent, with variation)
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Kevin Jorgeson falling off the English Gritstone testpiece Gaia (E8 6c). He clipped a pad at the bottom but was unharmed and later sent the route. The Gaia fall became infamous after Slackjaw's film Hard Grit (1998) when Jean-minh Trin-Thieu took the famous winger off the crux and broke his leg. Sequence courtesy of Kevin Jorgeson.
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