Climbing
Hot Flashes News

Caldwell, Trotter Finish The Shining (5.13+)

By Amanda Fox


Enlarge
Tommy Caldwell on The Shining (5.13+, 15 pitches). Photo by Sonnie Trotter

8/17/11 - Sonnie Trotter and Tommy Caldwell have established a 15-pitch mixed route, The Shining (5.13+), on the Diamond Face on Mt. Louis in the Canadian Rockies.

Trotter waited more than six years to check out this climb. "You can see it from the highway," he said in an email. "It taunts us as climbers... It's simply one of the most beautiful climbs I have ever seen in my entire life." In July, the pair used 105 bolts and a double rack—plus two umbrellas, three rain jackets, and a lawn chair—to top out the route after three days and 50 hours of climbing.

Last week, Trotter and Caldwell returned to Mt. Louie to complete the redpoint ascent. The hardest pitch clocks in at 5.13+, with four other 5.12/13 pitches on the main headwall; the seven hardest pitches were bolted on lead. The pair began climbing at 1 a.m., freeing every pitch, and topped out around 6 p.m. "It is one of the best routes I have ever climbed," Trotter said. "Does it get any better than that?"

Date of ascent: August 2011

Source: blackdiamondequipment.com




blog comments powered by Disqus

- advertisement -    
 

 
 (req)
If I like Climbing, I'll pay just $14.95 and receive a full one-year subscription (10 issues in all) a 70% savings off the newsstand price! If for any reason I decide not to continue, I'll write "cancel" on the invoice and owe nothing.
PAY NOW AND GET
2 FREE BONUS ISSUES!
That's 12 issues in all, instead of 10, for the same low price of $14.95!
Get 2 free trial issues
plus a free gift!
Enter Your Email for Our Free Newsletter
 
 
Get updates on your phone:
Add Climbing Magazine News Mippin widget



Special Offers
MyUCTV.com
Bouldering.com








Visit other sports sites by Skram Media: